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How easy is it to get a blued finish and how is it done?  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Mon Mar 15th, 2010 12:31 am
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Adam Rohn
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Has anyone ever done a blued finish? I'm considering doing one of my westinghouse but I want to know how easy it is to do.

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 Posted: Mon Mar 15th, 2010 12:36 am
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Steve Stephens
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For bare steel hardware it's as easy as heating the part with a torch until it turns blue. For the motor housing I don't think it was a heat process and not sure how it was done but probably with plating and chemicals.


Google is our friend:
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&safe=off&client=safari&rls=en&q=gunmetal+finish&aq=f&aqi=g-m1&aql=&oq=

Read this-
http://www.leaderboard.com/GLOSSARY_GUNMETALFINISH

Last edited on Mon Mar 15th, 2010 12:39 am by Steve Stephens

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 Posted: Mon Mar 15th, 2010 12:49 am
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Adam Rohn
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So you heat the metal until it turns blue and it'll stay that way?

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 Posted: Mon Mar 15th, 2010 12:57 am
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Adam Rohn
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Steve,

Can black krome be plated over pot metal?

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 Posted: Mon Mar 15th, 2010 01:41 am
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Steve Stephens
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To your last two questions: 1. It will stay that way. Try it sometime. Just take a store screw or bolt and heat it. I bet you could even heat it on a stove burner. But don't heat your fan's base and motor housing that way.
2. I don't know. I think pot metal can be chromed. Black chrome I know nothing about. Again, try Google for answers.

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 Posted: Mon Mar 15th, 2010 01:42 am
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Mike Petree
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"Can black krome be plated over pot metal?"

Probably.  There are generally three plating steps for chrome. It would need to have copper flash applied, nickel, then the chrome.

Copper flash acts kind of like a primer for the susequent plating steps.

Steve supplied some good links for blueing info.

Mike

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 Posted: Mon Mar 15th, 2010 01:47 am
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Adam Rohn
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Thanks Steve, I think I will try bluing my westinghouse :) I have a micro torch that I bought at harbor freight tools all I need to do is buy butane for it. Obviously the paint will come off with the torch but do you recommend I strip the fan with my heat gun first instead of a open flame?

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 Posted: Mon Mar 15th, 2010 01:56 am
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Nicholas Denney
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Adam Rohn wrote: Steve,

Can black krome be plated over pot metal?


If you're talking about ruthenium,  good luck....

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 Posted: Mon Mar 15th, 2010 02:12 am
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Adam Rohn
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Nick, will my 2,000 degree butane torch be enough heat to blue the metal?

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 Posted: Mon Mar 15th, 2010 02:48 am
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Steve Stephens
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Adam, as I said in my post above, I don't recommend that the fan's base and motor housing be heated to blue. You can try it and other things but don't expect satisfaction and you might ruin the parts. Learn first what DOES WORK and doesn't work or might not work and then go about it. I highly doubt that Westinghouse heated their fans to achieve the gunmetal finish. If you read my first link to gunmetal you will see that it's not high heat that makes the finish. I think you need to have a clear understanding of what you want to achieve before you start.

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 Posted: Mon Mar 15th, 2010 03:30 am
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Erich Martin
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If you want to "blue" hardware and STEEL items, go to a gun shop or big 5 and buy a bottle of gun blue. You clean and if desired polish the surface, wipe on the blue liquid (acid) and when it turns black and uniform , stop. rinse in water and if the finish is what you want, oil so it will not rust. If you want polished, reblue it using fine steel wool and buff while wet, rinse and oil . Repeat till happy. I blue all my steel hardware. Oh, wear gloves so your fingers do not turn black. I found this online:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KrdESVrBA_Y

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 Posted: Mon Mar 15th, 2010 03:41 am
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Russ Huber
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This what I use on screws or whatever needs blueing. I just used it last night to blue parts on a telegraph relay. I bought it at local sporting store like Cabelas. The stuff comes in 3 packs....all you need is this ONE. You can buy just the blueing by itself...don't let them tell you different at the store. I think it cost me a whole $5, or a tad less. Just read the instructions and get yourself some latex tight fit gloves. Never tried blueing a whole fan with it but there is a first time for everything. Your call. :clap::D

Attached Image (viewed 384 times):

Perma Blue.jpg

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 Posted: Mon Mar 15th, 2010 03:56 am
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Erich Martin
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Same brand I use. Did you watch the vid?, I like the hot water thing, gunna try it soon.

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 Posted: Mon Mar 15th, 2010 04:11 am
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Russ Huber
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So far Erich I have blued some Emerson screws and lets just say... fan tidbits. Like...if I owned a Sharps 45/70 that was carried by Davey Crockett in the flesh....that would be a different story. I would NOT pull out the Perma Blue bottle and give that one a new BLUE. :up: But...for a more common antique table fan ....I would give er a try...yes in deedy. :up:

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 Posted: Mon Mar 15th, 2010 06:36 am
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David Hunter
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Russ Huber wrote:
This what I use on screws or whatever needs blueing. I just used it last night to blue parts on a telegraph relay. I bought it at local sporting store like Cabelas. The stuff comes in 3 packs....all you need is this ONE. You can buy just the blueing by itself...don't let them tell you different at the store. I think it cost me a whole $5, or a tad less. Just read the instructions and get yourself some latex tight fit gloves. Never tried blueing a whole fan with it but there is a first time for everything. Your call.

Russ, from what I understand, of the two methods of bluing, hot and cold, only hot bluing, done with heat, will yield beneficial effects to steel. Hot bluing provides some rust resistance to steel whereas cold bluing has no significant rust protection whatsoever.

Last edited on Mon Mar 15th, 2010 06:37 am by David Hunter

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 Posted: Mon Mar 15th, 2010 06:59 am
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Russ Huber
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Well, you can keep your blued fan oiled inside and out. :up: Or...you could maybe clear coat it to keep the oxidation process under control?

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 Posted: Mon Mar 15th, 2010 01:58 pm
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Erich Martin
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I know what you mean. When it comes to guns, I do get shy on re-blueing, but only if it is decent and a high dollar unit. I did a K98 with no finish left on it and am eyeballing my no-finish 1913 luger......

Last edited on Mon Mar 15th, 2010 01:59 pm by Erich Martin

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 Posted: Mon Mar 15th, 2010 05:28 pm
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Ron Jeter
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Adam: These people at Atlas Plating in Houston, TX can plate chrome in alot of colors - I have added a link.            http://www.atlaschrome.com/

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 Posted: Mon Mar 15th, 2010 08:55 pm
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Doug Handley
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Erich Martin wrote: I know what you mean. When it comes to guns, I do get shy on re-blueing, but only if it is decent and a high dollar unit. I did a K98 with no finish left on it and am eyeballing my no-finish 1913 luger......

I would think long and hard before re-blueing that Luger.

JMHO.

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 Posted: Mon Mar 15th, 2010 11:08 pm
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Greg Miller
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Adam, I'm gonna go ahead and agree with Erich and Russ on this one- chemical bluing is probably a safer way to go, even though it doesn't offer the same protection as the hot-bluing. Once blued, I have found that a light application of good ol' Marvel Mystery Oil with a soft towel gives plenty of protection for what you're doing. Keep in mind- only steel will blue consistantly, whether hot or cold, so be careful what you go splashing that stuff on. BTW, Erich- send me some numbers and maybe a few pics of that old Luger and I'll find out for you whether it's safe to blue. I have a good resource for determining what it's supposed to have... your 98K is always right in blue, unless it's a capture that's been Parkerized or just an oddball foreign manufacture... The Russians painted them! YIKES!

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