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Emerson 4564139 Restoration  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Sat May 30th, 2015 01:38 pm
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David Hoatson
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I got a dirty, but complete Emerson ceiling fan that I'm going to restore. 

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 Posted: Sat May 30th, 2015 01:39 pm
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David Hoatson
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Close up of switch:

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 Posted: Sat May 30th, 2015 01:42 pm
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David Hoatson
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It comes pre-wired for lights. Basically two extra wires coiled up in the switch area, passing up through the hollow axle to to top of the fan. 

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Last edited on Sat May 30th, 2015 02:19 pm by David Hoatson

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 Posted: Sat May 30th, 2015 01:44 pm
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David Hoatson
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Top of fan, with speed coil cover removed. The upper ends of the lighting wires are visible to either side of the speed coil. 

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 Posted: Sat May 30th, 2015 01:46 pm
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David Hoatson
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The four wires to the switch and the two spare lighting wires pass down the hollow axle. 

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 Posted: Sat May 30th, 2015 01:53 pm
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David Hoatson
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After removing the wires from the axle, the wires coming out of the speed coil are visible. Note that one of the stator wires is spliced into one of the speed coil wires. Also note that all the wire is solid (not stranded), with cloth insulation. Copper conductor is .030" diameter, insulation, .080". Much smaller than normal 18 AWG vintage wire. I ordered some NOS Cloth covered solid 22 AWG since the original insulation is crumbling. 

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 Posted: Sat May 30th, 2015 01:55 pm
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David Hoatson
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Here is the schematic. The switch goes OFF-High-Med-Low. 

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 Posted: Sat May 30th, 2015 02:00 pm
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David Hoatson
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I plan to strip the fan completely down, then apply a copper oxide finish. Hopefully it will look like this VintageFans.com fan when I am done:

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 Posted: Sat May 30th, 2015 02:44 pm
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David Hoatson
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It's hard to see, but the middle speed coil wire is actually two wires coming out of the coil, twisted together. This makes sense, since this is where the two speed coil windings meet.

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Last edited on Fri Jul 10th, 2015 06:21 pm by David Hoatson

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 Posted: Sat May 30th, 2015 03:06 pm
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David Hoatson
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Ed, thanks for the advice on the oil cup nut. I was convinced it was backwards threads, but it was regular. 

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Last edited on Thu Jul 23rd, 2015 08:03 pm by David Hoatson

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 Posted: Sat May 30th, 2015 03:08 pm
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David Hoatson
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The thrust bearing assembly, starting at the bottom, has a felt washer, thin steel washer, thrust washer, balls, thrust washer, and felt washer. 

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Last edited on Sun Jun 21st, 2015 03:51 pm by David Hoatson

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 Posted: Sat May 30th, 2015 03:09 pm
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David Hoatson
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Stator assembly

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 Posted: Sat May 30th, 2015 03:12 pm
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David Hoatson
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Close up of the bottom of the Line In terminal board and speed coil. Note the two stator wires coming into view from above, one wire to the terminal board and one to the speed coil. The other terminal board wire, the one I call H (hot), passes down the axle to the common terminal on the switch. 

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 Posted: Sat May 30th, 2015 03:43 pm
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David Hoatson
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View of where the stator is spliced to the wires. Note the wires pass up the gaps between the coils, up to the terminal board area. 

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 Posted: Sat May 30th, 2015 03:44 pm
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David Hoatson
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On the opposite side of the stator is a splice. 

Note that every other "pole" has a coil. If all the poles that have coils are "north", the other poles without coils are "south". Also note that the poles without coils have a cut that has a copper band around it. These are the "shaded poles" that make a delayed magnetic field to make a "rotating magnetic field" that gets the rotor spinning in the correct direction. 
I didn't notice at first, but the poles with the coils also have copper bands. 

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Last edited on Sun Jun 21st, 2015 04:25 am by David Hoatson

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 Posted: Sat May 30th, 2015 03:46 pm
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David Hoatson
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I put two punch marks on the stator and two on the frame. This marks the orientation so I can put it back in the same place. 

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 Posted: Sat May 30th, 2015 08:17 pm
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David Hoatson
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I disconnected the stator from the two skinny wires that feed it

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 Posted: Sun May 31st, 2015 12:25 am
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Mitch W. Romero
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I have always wondered why Emerson ceiling fans in those days always had the iron on top the wood instead of underneath the blades..

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 Posted: Sun May 31st, 2015 01:08 am
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Stan Adams
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Emerson stayed that way all of the way through production Mitch. Even the 70s blender fans have the irons on top of the blade.

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 Posted: Sun May 31st, 2015 01:11 am
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Stan Adams
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David Hoatson wrote: After removing the wires from the axle, the wires coming out of the speed coil are visible. Note that one of the stator wires is spliced into one of the speed coil wires. Also note that all the wire is solid (not stranded), with cloth insulation. Copper conductor is .030" diameter, insulation, .080". Much smaller than normal 18 AWG vintage wire. I ordered some NOS Cloth covered solid 22 AWG since the original insulation is crumbling. 
David, one real good alternative on the wire feeding the switch & light is fluorescent ballast wire. It has a high heat insulation & as far as plastic coated wire, is the closest I have found to original.

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 Posted: Sun May 31st, 2015 01:46 am
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David Hoatson
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Stan Adams wrote: David, one real good alternative on the wire feeding the switch & light is fluorescent ballast wire. It has a high heat insulation & as far as plastic coated wire, is the closest I have found to original.
I use a high grade Western Electric cloth wire from a new roll from the 1940's on lamps. It's the same size, but stranded and gold color. I ordered some similar black wire to see how good it looks. I'd like to go as original as possible, but be safe. 


I'd love to get some clear or black electrical lacquer for coils. Does the Nikolas lacquer work on coils OK? Two coils lost some lacquer on their top sides. 

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 Posted: Sun May 31st, 2015 01:56 am
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Tom Morel
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That's going to look really nice David.

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 Posted: Sun May 31st, 2015 02:07 am
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David Hoatson
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I always wanted a long nose. They are pretty common, but nice style. For some reason, I never liked the looks of the Century. My favorite one I have is the Hunter C-18. I'd like to get a collection of the 1890's fans, though. And a GE grape leaf. And a Westy mini sidewinder. And one of those Marellis with the driveshaft. 

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 Posted: Sun May 31st, 2015 07:44 am
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Cory Baughn
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I'm looking forward to seeing this done, I love how you are documenting it so well. It makes reading a thread very enjoyable.

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 Posted: Sun May 31st, 2015 12:23 pm
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David Hoatson
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Cory Baughn wrote: I'm looking forward to seeing this done, I love how you are documenting it so well. It makes reading a thread very enjoyable.
Thanks. The detail, to me, is like an archeological dig, opening up King Tut's tomb. The pictures guide me when it gets reassembled, so I can get the wiring to lay in the same place. 

Plus, there are a lot of fans where I wish I knew what they looked like inside. 

I'm sure it's pretty boring to some. 

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 Posted: Sun May 31st, 2015 12:53 pm
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Tom Dreesen
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David Hoatson wrote: I'd love to get some clear or black electrical lacquer for coils. Does the Nikolas lacquer work on coils OK? Two coils lost some lacquer on their top sides. 
Don't use regular lacquer.


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 Posted: Sun May 31st, 2015 03:32 pm
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David Hoatson
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Tom Dreesen wrote: David Hoatson wrote: I'd love to get some clear or black electrical lacquer for coils. Does the Nikolas lacquer work on coils OK? Two coils lost some lacquer on their top sides. 
Don't use regular lacquer.

Thanks. Looks good. I just ordered a can. 

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 Posted: Sun May 31st, 2015 11:28 pm
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David Hoatson
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I made a punch from a drywall screw and punched out the press-in rivet pins that held the badge on. 
The Emerson model chart shows this fan to be 1929 (if I read it right), but the small "11" in the lower right indicates 1920 + 11 = 1931. There is also a "D" stamped in the upper right. What does that mean?

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 Posted: Sun May 31st, 2015 11:43 pm
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Tom Dreesen
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David Hoatson wrote: I made a punch from a drywall screw and punched out the press-in rivet pins that held the badge on. 
The Emerson model chart shows this fan to be 1929 (if I read it right), but the small "11" in the lower right indicates 1920 + 11 = 1931. There is also a "D" stamped in the upper right. What does that mean?

Very good observations as well as questions.  I have one with the extra stamped "39" which I initially thought indicated the year of sale.  It could still be that but that would mean these sat on the shelf a "long" time.  Those letter punches have been suggested to be month codes (none past L or 12 months indicating December).  
Things to consider ...

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 Posted: Sun May 31st, 2015 11:56 pm
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David Hoatson
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45641-39 is listed in the Emerson Production Data ("pages 11-20")  as 14-degree, 56", 29 Jan, 1929

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 Posted: Thu Jun 4th, 2015 12:56 am
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David Hoatson
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I pulled the stator out (no turning back now)

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 Posted: Thu Jun 4th, 2015 12:57 am
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David Hoatson
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It easily tapped out with a punch and light taps with a heavy hammer. I worked in a cross pattern to ease it out straight. 

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Last edited on Thu Jun 4th, 2015 12:57 am by David Hoatson

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 Posted: Sun Jun 7th, 2015 01:18 am
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David Hoatson
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I cleaned the stator with acetone and Q-tips, repaired some tape wraps, and sprayed electrical lacquer. The original coil wrap tape was a plastic tape and it was brittle and had pieces falling off on the top side, so I wrapped the exposed sections with friction tape. 

Now, I'm cleaning and media blasting the iron parts. It has a nice smooth casting and should look nice with a polished oxide finish. Nothing mechanically wrong. 

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 Posted: Mon Jun 15th, 2015 04:46 am
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Cory Baughn
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David, do you have any info on copper oxide finishes on a cast iron fan? I am wanting to try and figure that out.

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 Posted: Mon Jun 15th, 2015 11:09 am
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David Hoatson
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Cory Baughn wrote: David, do you have any info on copper oxide finishes on a cast iron fan? I am wanting to try and figure that out.
Cory, most of what I know is here:

Hunter C-18
http://www.afcaforum.com/view_topic.php?id=30793&forum_id=1&highlight=Hunter+C-18

Westy sidewinders
http://www.afcaforum.com/forum1/34316.html


If you have a specific project in mind, we can talk about it. 

Last edited on Mon Jun 15th, 2015 11:10 am by David Hoatson

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 Posted: Sat Jun 20th, 2015 03:11 pm
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David Hoatson
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I was sandblasting parts and noticed that under the black finish on the brass switch cover is a copper plate. The copper could be a primer for black paint, but I believe the black is a copper oxide. Dipping a part in a solution to make it black is much easier than painting it and the oxide is much thinner than paint, and sort of self-lubricating, so it would not interfere with switch rotation. 

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 Posted: Sun Jun 21st, 2015 06:41 pm
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David Hoatson
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When you rebuild a ceiling fan, you need to make sure the oil cup is oil-tight. Some fans need a sealant on the oil cup threads. 

This Emerson has a copper sealing washer:

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 Posted: Sun Jun 21st, 2015 06:42 pm
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David Hoatson
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And the cup has a tall center tower that seals against the copper seal:

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 Posted: Tue Jun 23rd, 2015 12:06 am
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David Hoatson
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The parts are mostly cleaned up. I'll do another sand blast before I give the parts to the plater. 

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 Posted: Tue Jun 23rd, 2015 12:06 am
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David Hoatson
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.

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