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R&M 2610 wiring help  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Sun Oct 23rd, 2016 02:54 pm
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Rick Porter
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Hello all,
I bought this fan many years ago.  When I bought it, it was wired as one speed directly to the coil. I want to restore it to its original state; however, I have no idea how to determine which wires are the different speeds and which is common. Also, there was no selector switch in the base.  Can these still be obtained and will selector switches from other R&M fans or manufacturers work?  Did this fan have a switch with a choke coil, or was it wired directly to a porcelain selector?  
Thanks,
Rick









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 Posted: Sun Oct 23rd, 2016 03:35 pm
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Rick Huckabee
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2-wire head AC/DC stator, guessing you have an armature . When you find the correct switch , not sure if it will be a single or 2-3 speed type , but 1 motor lead will probably connect to L1 at a post on switch,  and the other motor lead will connect to switch either on the coil or at one of the speed posts . L2 probably underside of switch . Use jumpers .

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 Posted: Sun Oct 23rd, 2016 04:25 pm
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Craig Robbins
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Universal brush type AC/DC motor. Had a nichrome wound coil, 3 speeds I think. Similar to the R&M 3000 and 3100 universal motors. Maybe someone with a 2610 can take pictures and readings of the switch and coil. I hope you have the brushes and caps. Good luck...C

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 Posted: Sun Oct 23rd, 2016 10:29 pm
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Rick Porter
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Is there a way to defemine L1, L2, S1, S2, etc.?  I have the armature, brush/caps, just missing a switch.  The fan ran when I bought it, but just on one speed.  And yes, an actual picture of the inside of a 2610 would be nice to see. 

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 Posted: Mon Oct 24th, 2016 01:36 am
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Jim Humphrey
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Rick, I've got some pics of the speed control of a 2610 I had (or maybe still have, but I didn't see it on a quick check).  It's basically two layers of nichrome resistance wire, and it appears speed one is direct from line voltage, speed two is one layer, and speed three is both layers of resistance.  The pics are of when I was disassembling the thing, and I think I recall just soldering some breaks together and everything worked.  My notes say after repair it worked on three distinct speeds.  Anyway, hope these pics help at least a little.  Jim





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 Posted: Mon Oct 24th, 2016 11:05 am
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Rick Huckabee
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I'd check w Mr. Chad Baker on the switch. L1 and L2 makes no difference makes no difference if AC , DC has (+),(-), what really makes a difference is that you have the brush wires going to the correct side of the stator.

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 Posted: Fri Oct 12th, 2018 05:56 am
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Jeff Jones
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Did you have difficulty getting the bottom coil to stay down in it's well after doing the headwire? I'm fighting w/ this now...Got the stator out no problem, put on the new wire no problem...thought yea this was too easy....go to put the stator back in and no matter how I tape up the wires, I cannot get the lower coil to stay down in it's well fully once the stator is back in. It keeps pushing it up, and then the armature hits it.

I think the biggest issue is the one wire was really short..so the splice for that one is like right at the one screw hole. I guess I'm probably going to have to carefully cut off some of the friction tape on the coil and splice a new lead directly onto the magnet wire so the splice is in a different spot.

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