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Trojan 5110 Rotor Modification  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Wed Feb 8th, 2017 12:52 am
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Gary Hagan
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This was the test cut for the laser. Cool stuff!


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 Posted: Wed Feb 8th, 2017 01:02 am
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Gary Hagan
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Short video of the live action. I will need to make some adjustments for the final design but this was definitely a fun experience.

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 Posted: Thu Feb 9th, 2017 04:05 am
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Gary Hagan
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Version 2 fits much better. I am pretty pleased with the results!


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 Posted: Wed Feb 15th, 2017 02:35 am
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Gary Hagan
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I finally cobbled this thing together. New bearing, shaft, oil slingee, small threaded grommets, I have a set of new acorns. Also have new motor insulators. In another week or so I will have it up and running again.
I still need a correct set of struts and a motor tag. I plan to make these parts but life is busy these days. More updates to come of the motor rewind and speed coil rewind!

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 Posted: Mon Mar 6th, 2017 03:47 am
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Gary Hagan
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Before

 During




Test Fitment.

Next I will disassemble and tumble all of the metal parts. I'll spray insulate the laminations. Cold bluie all of the steel components, leave the brass a satin matte.

I need a little advice/help... Does anyone have any braided sleeve or braided insulated wire I can use to make the terminal connections from the choke? Should I use para cord? 

Does Tom Newcity still make the molded knob for the switch handle?

First time I've ever wound a choke. I wound 26ga 350 times for a total of 4.7 ohms versus the 3.8 ohms it was originally wired. I was instructed that the originals are wound a bit hot and there isn't a large speed reduction. 

 

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 Posted: Mon Mar 6th, 2017 03:51 am
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Gary Hagan
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New shading poles wired in. This was 18 gauge at 22 turns. Motor insulator is mounted and has good clearances. I need to make a winding form for the poles. Hopefully I'll get around to making the coils in the next few days.


I am begging Josh Backens to paint it for me! Hopefully I'll have it disassembled and mailed. Thinking of going with a similar mint/blue color.

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 Posted: Mon Mar 6th, 2017 11:37 am
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Rick Huckabee
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The factory put in about 294-298 turns / coil on most all of the split-phased motors of that era as best as Sidney and I can tell . This will make the motor pull around 1.3-1.4 A after the start windings kick out. Next one I rewind will have more  turns in it to pull amperage down just a bit. I' will probably use 110-115 t  skein at 1-2 , 1-4 , 1-6  or 330 -345 t/pole on the main windings.

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 Posted: Thu Apr 27th, 2017 02:32 am
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Gary Hagan
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So I sent my cast iron to the Phoenix Phantom and boy did he deliver. His extra terrestrial painting abilities leave me speechless. He tells me I am lucky as heck to have him as a friend.


What do you guys think?











Attached Image (viewed 494 times):

IMG_4921.JPG

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 Posted: Thu Apr 27th, 2017 03:38 am
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Steve Stephens
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Magnificent mastery of the art of painting but, to me, out of place on an antique piece of machinery.

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 Posted: Thu Apr 27th, 2017 04:27 am
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Gary Hagan
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I dunno Steve. I like the look of black Japan and brass. However I have 99 black ones, 1 chrome, and now one white. I think it's okay to like both original and custom. 

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 Posted: Thu Apr 27th, 2017 04:27 am
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Josh Backens
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Steve Stephens wrote: Magnificent mastery of the art of painting but, to me, out of place on an antique piece of machinery.I know there's many of you who prefer original patina, I do too if it's within reason. This fan was beat to :censored. With that said, I did my best to bring this fan back to life, as did Gary. The pictures do not show this justice and will be a spectacular fan. I suppose he could've just let time eat it away.... and in 100 or more years not have a fan left. But in my opinion, a simple protective paint job will conserve this cast iron for many years to come. Looks great and will make the owner proud. Paint is easily removed which was the case of this fan. He could simply remove the paint and let it sit in a salt water tank for a few weeks to add the "patina" back. If you don't like restored fans, don't respond. Who are you to say restored fans or any other piece of machinery are out of place, Steve? I mean really....

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 Posted: Thu Apr 27th, 2017 12:20 pm
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Edward Bowers
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That's fantastic. The quality and color are outstanding.

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 Posted: Thu Apr 27th, 2017 06:01 pm
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Steve Stephens
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Gary Hagan wrote:  I think it's okay to like both original and custom. Absolutely, it is ok to like both or, for that matter, not both and, since you asked us what we thought, I answered truthfully the way I felt.   I am not a fan of custom cars, motorcycles, fans nor do I like over restorations.  On occasions I have seen a custom painted fan that I did like but, mostly, they are gaudy and fake looking.   In my book keep it original and faithful to the way it was made.   I have no problems with a good restoration and don't think a piece should be left in a decayed state where it will decay even further.   

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 Posted: Thu Apr 27th, 2017 06:03 pm
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Steve Stephens
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Josh Backens wrote: Who are you to say restored fans or any other piece of machinery are out of place, Steve? I mean really....Josh, just another AFCA member here expressing my opinion and nothing more.   Is that out of place?

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 Posted: Fri Apr 28th, 2017 02:49 am
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Josh Backens
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Steve Stephens wrote: Josh Backens wrote: Who are you to say restored fans or any other piece of machinery are out of place, Steve? I mean really....Josh, just another AFCA member here expressing my opinion and nothing more.   Is that out of place?
Just busting your :censored Steve 😃. I know where you stand with restored fans... to each his own. I feel the same way with nice original paint. 

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 Posted: Tue Jul 18th, 2017 01:17 am
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Gary Hagan
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Test fitment. I better get to winding these coils. Josh B. Did a heck of a job laying down the moonlight pearl. 

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 Posted: Tue Jul 18th, 2017 02:33 am
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Stephen Chew
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:clap: :clap: :clap:Wow what it beautiful color. I love both and wouldn't have it any other way.

Last edited on Tue Jul 18th, 2017 02:33 am by Stephen Chew

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 Posted: Sun Feb 10th, 2019 04:13 pm
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Chris A. Campbell
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This thread is 2 years old but currently debating on rewinding my motor.
Hoping Gary if still around can help out or someone who has done this before.

Two questions:

Where are the start windings in the motor?

Any reason the copper used for shaded poles need to be insulated?

Thanks



Last edited on Sun Feb 10th, 2019 04:30 pm by Chris A. Campbell

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 Posted: Tue Feb 12th, 2019 07:17 pm
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Richard Daugird
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Thanks for bringing this back Chris, what a gorgeous piece! Great surgery preformed by all involved.

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 Posted: Wed Feb 13th, 2019 12:54 am
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David Allen
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Chris A. Campbell wrote: This thread is 2 years old but currently debating on rewinding my motor.

Hoping Gary if still around can help out or someone who has done this before.



Two questions:



Where are the start windings in the motor?



Any reason the copper used for shaded poles need to be insulated?



Thanks








Hi Chris!  I can answer this for you.  The motor has no start winding. The shaded pole design is self-starting. Only the main coils receive power from the cord.

The shade coil does not need to be insulated.

Gary did an amazing job on this fan. I hope he can chime in and give more info on the rewind process.

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 Posted: Wed Feb 13th, 2019 02:16 am
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Chris A. Campbell
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Thanks David. 
Have talked with Sidney and along with Gary’s write up will attempt this rewind.

This helped me understand how a closed copper loop could start a motor


https://youtu.be/sENgdSF8ppA


Last edited on Wed Feb 13th, 2019 02:20 am by Chris A. Campbell

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 Posted: Fri Feb 15th, 2019 06:44 am
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Gary Hagan
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I think I have left over copper fore the shading poles. Happy to help if needed. I could wind the poles too, not sure I have enough wire but can check.

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 Posted: Fri Feb 15th, 2019 06:49 am
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Gary Hagan
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I also have an extra blade set that needs machining and assembly. Jim chestnut said he can assemble them for around $250

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 Posted: Sat Feb 16th, 2019 02:50 pm
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Michael Rathberger
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Really nice work by Gary. Fwiw, shading coil description.

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 Posted: Sat Feb 16th, 2019 08:27 pm
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Larry White
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Gary, with all the time and effort you are putting into the restoration of this fan if the coil still works fine I would not do anything. I clean laminates on a wire wheel they spray them with clear insulating lacquer. If the coil does not work then take a the few minutes it takes to uncoil the wire, noting where the drops are, and gauge the wire. If you measure the inside opening of the coil before unwinding you can make a block of wood corresponding to that size. I use 4-2-4 Rag paper abound the block before I start winding. It sure makes it easier to slide the new coil off.

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