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GE AOU AK1  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Sat Oct 7th, 2017 07:31 pm
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John Shummy
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Hi folks my name is John and new to the forum

Where I got her? Pulled my AOU fan I had fund back in 1990 in an old junk pile back by the railroad tracks. At the time it look like the fan was out there for years as it was covered in rust and the motor was locked up.



 I was 13 years old at the time and soaked the whole motor in WD-40 filled the gear box with motor oil and got the thing running. Cosmetics for the fan as a 13 year old kid was to spray the whole fan up with some rustoleum black paint.
I ran the fan that way all through the 90's that way without a problem.

I pulled the fan out of the basement after forgetting about it for years. The cage spot welds had given away so I pulled it off and the thing still works like a charm.

Now its time for a long overdue restoration :)







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 Posted: Sat Oct 7th, 2017 08:27 pm
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Levi Mevis
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Check out my thread here concerning a fan very similar to yours in a very similar condition to yours, currently restoring mine as well. although on mine the switch is shot so I will need to search for a new switch.

Last edited on Sat Oct 7th, 2017 08:32 pm by Levi Mevis

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 Posted: Sun Oct 8th, 2017 04:41 pm
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John Shummy
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Hi Levi, yes your fan looks like mine did the day I found it (lots of rust and scale) The bottom plate was so rusted that I had no idea there was a metal ring that held the felt in place.


Before




after a short date with the bead blaster

after



As for the pitting? I like to keep a optimistic look by writing it off as kinda like a patina look. lol

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 Posted: Wed Oct 11th, 2017 04:03 am
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John Shummy
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Cleaning up the base

Most likely gonna skim coat body filler over the the pits








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 Posted: Wed Oct 11th, 2017 04:22 am
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John Shummy
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After soaking the stator frame in WD-40 over night, I the left the motor housing in the freezer. I drilled 2 holes in the motor housing and used a punch and small hammer to remove the stator





Kept the Drill bit in so only 1/8 of the bit was sticking out... I would avoid hitting the stator coil this way


Punching the stator out.


stator coil out and housing cleaned up


New Head wire soldered on with shrink wrap

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 Posted: Wed Oct 11th, 2017 05:20 pm
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John Shummy
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All the king's horses and all the kings men couldn't put the  oscillator box back together again?



Due to the collapse of the oscillator box, I will be attempting to make a pot metal /J-B Weld hybrid gearbox.


Crazy glued everything in place just to get a basic frame




Applying Play-Doh to act as a mold to hold in the J-B Weld epoxy


Building Up  a base of JB Weld at the bottom of the gearbox






Going to let her dry overnight before I pulled the Play-Doh mold off




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 Posted: Wed Oct 11th, 2017 05:22 pm
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Levi Mevis
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It looks like though on your fan that your power switch and base cover were in much better shape than mine, mine isn't salvageable like yours is, mine is completely rotted, as you could see in my photos.

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 Posted: Wed Oct 11th, 2017 11:11 pm
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John Shummy
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I do have a crack in the Bakelite where one of the studs heated up. It looked like many strands of the wire had broken off causing excessive Heat.



Do you have a close up picture of the speed coil / switch? If it's the lever where the insulation is missing I would just sand or bead Blast the rust off....  apply some some JB Weld as an insulator. Then sand it smooth to look like the original lever cover. Remember, if you're creative enough duct tape, Krazy Glue and JB Weld can make anything salvageable lol  :D

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 Posted: Wed Oct 11th, 2017 11:49 pm
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Levi Mevis
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Trust me, my switch is NOT salvageable the screws and nuts holding the switch to the baseplate are rusted to the point that not even liquid wrench can get them to come loose in fact one of the nuts is "welded" to the screw by the rust.

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 Posted: Fri Oct 13th, 2017 09:22 pm
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Richard Daugird
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How did the JB come out???

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 Posted: Sun Oct 15th, 2017 08:06 pm
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John Shummy
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Coming out well, I did put the JB Weld down a little thick underneath so im gonna shave it down tomorrow. As is, it looks like the oscillating bell will rub.


Lower gear clears nicely


On Friday I started to take the speed coil switch apart.



Attached Image (viewed 463 times):

switch20171013_084051.jpg

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 Posted: Sun Oct 15th, 2017 08:27 pm
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Levi Mevis
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How was it that your speed coil managed to survive outdoors 30+ years intact and mine wasn't able to survive 30+ in a damp basement?

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 Posted: Mon Oct 16th, 2017 05:46 pm
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John Shummy
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Greased up the bushing before putting back in the oscillator box. I'm hoping the J-B Weld will not stick to it.

Another wall of Play-Doh being placed around the broken bushing housing

 J-B Weld poured  in now we wait for it to set up overnight



Quick question from what I can see on pics out there most of the switch levers are brass? Mine is steel bead and was pretty Rusty so I bead blasted it.... maybe a brass color type paint? Or I may  just go with the flat black paint.



Attached Image (viewed 424 times):

20171016_084620.jpg

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 Posted: Fri Oct 20th, 2017 01:59 pm
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John Shummy
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Box is coming along nicely 

I dipped a set screw in oil and thread it in part way leaving the exposed screw out to to allow the JB Weld to flow around the screw and make a mold of the threads that hold down the top cover. No tapping was necessary.


Although the inside of the box will not be able to hold as much grease as it used to I feel the J-B weld on the inside of the Box will really strengthen it up at least until someone invents a 3D pot metal printer
Checking the gears for clearance everything spins freely



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 Posted: Fri Oct 20th, 2017 06:21 pm
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Thomas Peters
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No need for a lot of grease capacity.
A heavy coating on all of the gear teeth should be enough.

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 Posted: Fri Oct 20th, 2017 07:05 pm
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Don Tener
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John Shummy wrote:Greased up the bushing before putting back in the oscillator box. I'm hoping the J-B Weld will not stick to it.

Another wall of Play-Doh being placed around the broken bushing housing

 J-B Weld poured  in now we wait for it to set up overnight


If I am looking at these pics right you got JB weld in the grove of the motor bearing. They are a self aliening bearing. I hope that the JB weld will let the bearing line up and not bind. If it binds the motor will not run.

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 Posted: Sat Oct 21st, 2017 12:38 am
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John Shummy
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Yeah I kinda picked up on that as I was pouring the J-B Weld in, that I should have filled that groove in with Play-Doh also. It was a quick fix with the Dremel tool though  :)

Last edited on Sat Oct 21st, 2017 12:39 am by John Shummy

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 Posted: Sat Oct 21st, 2017 05:05 am
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Don Tener
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John Shummy wrote: Yeah I kinda picked up on that as I was pouring the J-B Weld in, that I should have filled that groove in with Play-Doh also. It was a quick fix with the Dremel tool though  :)
Cool. I am glad that you could fix that without having to break it apart again.

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 Posted: Sat Oct 28th, 2017 07:52 pm
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John Shummy
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Made a little more progress this week, I was able to fill in most of the pits in the base of the fan by laying on the primer real thick and then wet sanding in between coats.


Also reassembled the speed coil and mounted it back in the bottom plate


bad connection on one of the brass screws heated up and cracked the speed-coil frame.

Little bit of J-B weld should hold it in place.

Looking back I didn't take a pic after cleaning it up with the Dremel  :(






The hardest part of this project is when you get on a roll and need to hit the bakes, grab the camera and take some pictures.

Last edited on Sat Oct 28th, 2017 07:58 pm by John Shummy

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 Posted: Sun Oct 29th, 2017 03:26 am
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Lucas Beshara
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I hear that john. Pump the brakes and take a picture, or just be engulfed in fab work...  love it!

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 Posted: Fri Nov 10th, 2017 01:59 pm
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John Shummy
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A few more updated pics :)





Primed and ready to be painted



Rear bushing back in seated nicely


Armature going back in


I power her up and she ran like a top. The Armature can move forward and back about a quarter of an inch. I would imagine the flan blade is what prevents that from happening normally? Or am I missing a bunch of shims?

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 Posted: Sun Nov 12th, 2017 04:07 pm
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Lucas Beshara
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Your missing the shims on the rotor. You want to add them to either side to keep it centered in the stator. I usually add until the rotor won't spin when reassembled, then take one out. And the clearance i shoot for is one shim thickness:up:
Nice work on the restore!

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 Posted: Sun Nov 12th, 2017 04:18 pm
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Lawrence Smith
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I'm just in awe of the dedication to saving that fan-- JB weld, great write -up! thanks for the info, Lawrence

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