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Westinghouse fan motor running temperature.  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Thu Oct 4th, 2018 05:56 pm
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Marc Miller
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I am a new member as of September this year. I have a Westinghouse 12 inch  fan I just restored. Style # 162634a. Last patent date is 8-11-1914. As part of the restoration I insulated the stator windings, soldered a new head wire and replaced the power cord. Brass cage and blade. The running temperature of the motor housing after an hour on high speed is 110-112 degrees. After fan motor warmed up the stator has 20-22 ohms resistance.  The motor housing is Fairly warm to the touch but not hot.  Could this be a normal running temp?  Fan is smooth and quiet.

Not sure why I'm showing up a guest and not a member. 

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 Posted: Thu Oct 4th, 2018 06:18 pm
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Lawrence Smith
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a stamped steel westy will run warm compared to a cast unit. Do you have a watt or amp reading of the fan when running?(kilowatt meter) how does that amp reading compare to the tag info? I don't think your temperature is out of the norm for these fans. congrats on successfully putting a new headwire on one. I don't have a heat reader so I can't compare the heat on mine, but if yours stayed steady at that temp it is good to go    

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 Posted: Thu Oct 4th, 2018 07:05 pm
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Marc Miller
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Pulling .7 amp. At 120 volts that's 84 watts, right? There is no amp/watt ratings on the tag. Ohms, amps and watt rating all seem fine After 2 hours run time temp crept up to 119- 120 degrees. Seems a little high to me, but I know a cast iron housing will make them run cooler. My Emerson 29646 runs about 95 degrees, much cooler to the touch.
Removing the stator was a real bear, that's why I'm concerned about the temp readings. Thanks for any/all info!

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 Posted: Fri Oct 5th, 2018 12:13 am
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Lawrence Smith
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some one just redid a 1947 vorty , it's housing was 115 after 3 hours -- I'd say your fine. I know westy & ge are not the same-- but  both are stamped steel housings & typically run hotter than a cast version

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 Posted: Fri Oct 5th, 2018 11:47 am
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David Allen
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Marc Miller wrote: Pulling .7 amp. At 120 volts that's 84 watts, right? There is no amp/watt ratings on the tag. Ohms, amps and watt rating all seem fine After 2 hours run time temp crept up to 119- 120 degrees. Seems a little high to me, but I know a cast iron housing will make them run cooler. My Emerson 29646 runs about 95 degrees, much cooler to the touch.

Removing the stator was a real bear, that's why I'm concerned about the temp readings. Thanks for any/all info!

Hi Marc. I believe  you will be just fine at that temperature.  There is an air space between the stator and the housing, on the cast iron fans.  On the stamped steel motors, the stator is in direct contact with the thin stamped motor housing shell. The stator heat will be directly felt on the exterior of the motor.

There is more than volts and amps to calculate power use with AC motor current. You need a meter which measures volts and amps at the same instant, and compares the two sine waveforms to each other.  Without going into deep theory; you have to know how well "lined  up" the peaks of the current and voltage waveforms are, to know watts. The simple volts * amps calculation only works for resistive loads such as heaters; or for DC current.

Many of us use the Kill-A-Watt meter. It's easy to use, just plug it in and plug the fan into it.

Sincerely,
David

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 Posted: Fri Oct 5th, 2018 12:48 pm
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Marc Miller
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Thank you David and Lawrence, I will get a Kill-A-Watt meter and post my readings. Will make it easier to diagnose. Appreciate all the input.

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 Posted: Fri Oct 5th, 2018 02:13 pm
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Richard Daugird
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This looks like a good alternative to the Kill-A-Watt.

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 Posted: Fri Oct 5th, 2018 02:13 pm
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Richard Daugird
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https://www.ebay.com/itm/LCD-Digital-Voltage-Wattmeter-Power-Analyzer-Electronic-Power-Energy-Meter-120V/182859911285?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131231084308%26meid%3D46aaa3155eb74cc9b944cd6fb175b05d%26pid%3D100010%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D382444123747%26itm%3D182859911285&_trksid=p2047675.c100010.m2109&autorefresh=true

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 Posted: Fri Oct 5th, 2018 02:18 pm
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Lawrence Smith
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Richard please purchase & do some comparison testing, it would be nice to know if the readings are similar. That unit is about $10 cheaper than the kilowatt.  

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 Posted: Fri Oct 5th, 2018 02:52 pm
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Richard Daugird
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Will do.

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 Posted: Tue Oct 9th, 2018 01:38 am
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Marc Miller
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I purchased a Kill-A-Watt meter and have the readings. After running the fan 3 hours: on high speed: Amps- .76.
Watts- 66.2
Volt Amps- 92.7
Power Factor- .71
Killowatt- Hours ( power consumption after 3 hours run time)- 0.19
These readings seem ok to me. Max fan housing temp after 3 hours was 122 degrees. I noticed the fan spin down time was only 9 seconds after turning fan off. Maybe this blade spin resistance is why temp is as high as it is. Should I remove back cover and try to recenter bushings? I hate to do it with fresh paint but I can. Any ideas , thoughts?

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 Posted: Tue Oct 9th, 2018 10:14 am
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David Allen
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Marc Miller wrote: I purchased a Kill-A-Watt meter and have the readings. After running the fan 3 hours: on high speed: Amps- .76.

Watts- 66.2

Volt Amps- 92.7

Power Factor- .71

Killowatt- Hours ( power consumption after 3 hours run time)- 0.19

These readings seem ok to me. Max fan housing temp after 3 hours was 122 degrees. I noticed the fan spin down time was only 9 seconds after turning fan off. Maybe this blade spin resistance is why temp is as high as it is. Should I remove back cover and try to recenter bushings? I hate to do it with fresh paint but I can. Any ideas , thoughts?

Glad you were able to locate a Kill-A-Watt meter. The readings don't look bad at all.  You may be onto something with the quick spin-down. Not exactly sure how this motor is manufactured; but on many motors you can tap the motor housing sideways left and right, then up and down (with a soft object such as a wood block) and the weight of the rotor will center the bushings. It doesn't take much force at all, so do it gently and only slightly harder if there's no improvement.

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 Posted: Thu Oct 18th, 2018 06:34 pm
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Richard Daugird
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Lawrence Smith wrote: Richard please purchase & do some comparison testing, it would be nice to know if the readings are similar. That unit is about $10 cheaper than the kilowatt.  It came in the mail, I used it but have yet to do side-by-side comparison against Kill-A-Watt. I did notice, it does NOT have a lighted display as I thought it did.

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