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Arrow-E 3123 Socket  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Thu Dec 6th, 2018 02:17 am
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Richard Daugird
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Anyone know how to take one of these apart, wire it up, and mount it?




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 Posted: Thu Dec 6th, 2018 02:31 am
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Levi Mevis
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Hi Richard, That's an interesting looking light socket you have there, I don't think I've ever seen one before.
By the looks of it, I think the cover over the socket itself just pulls off, then the base cover pulls off once the socket cover is off. 

That's just my guess after looking at how the socket appears to be assembled.

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 Posted: Thu Dec 6th, 2018 04:49 am
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Richard Daugird
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Well, unadulterated genius award tonight goes to Levi Mevis! That was exactly how it works. So I’ve got it apart now but I don’t know how to wire it up.

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 Posted: Thu Dec 6th, 2018 04:53 am
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Richard Daugird
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I was trying to press the knob...





Last edited on Thu Dec 6th, 2018 06:47 am by Richard Daugird

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 Posted: Thu Dec 6th, 2018 04:58 am
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Levi Mevis
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Can you remove the socket out of the cover so that the socket itself is exposed? I'm suspecting that there are screw terminals on the side of the socket itself that the wires fasten to.

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 Posted: Thu Dec 6th, 2018 05:02 am
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Richard Daugird
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I’m not sure if I’ll be able to use this after all. Says 250 V.

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 Posted: Thu Dec 6th, 2018 05:08 am
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Richard Daugird
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Hid a 6 amp Variac in the box. Was going to use it to run 16” Pancake with Benjamin attachment cord. 


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 Posted: Thu Dec 6th, 2018 05:12 am
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Richard Daugird
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 Gratuitous before and after polish shots. 




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 Posted: Thu Dec 6th, 2018 05:19 am
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Richard Daugird
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So far you’re battin’ a thousand Levi. Maybe these little screws need to come out?


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 Posted: Thu Dec 6th, 2018 05:21 am
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Richard Daugird
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 Posted: Thu Dec 6th, 2018 05:43 am
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Levi Mevis
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Richard Daugird wrote:





No All Light Sockets like this in America say 250 V. 250 W. that the maxium Wattage and Voltage that the sockets can handle meaning that they can be used with either 110v AC or 220v AC and the maximum sized bulb that they can use is a 250 Watt Bulb, so this socket is fine to use here.

As for the screws the ones you were talking about on the bottom of the socket where the bulb screws in are for disassembling the socket so you can service the switch mechanism, the screw terminals are on the side of the Socket you still need to remove the cardboard insulator to get to them, the screw terminals will correspond to the indentions on the bottom side of the socket which is where the wire would feed through and and attach to their respective screw terminals, one of the terminal screws is brass to correspond with the hot connection and the other screw is steel to correspond with the neutral connection.

Hope this helps.

Last edited on Thu Dec 6th, 2018 05:54 am by Levi Mevis

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 Posted: Thu Dec 6th, 2018 05:53 am
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Levi Mevis
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Take a look at the lamp socket in the photos below, its a GE Lamp socket from the same time period as your Arrow light socket, that's what it should look like under the cardboard insulator, and that's how you wire it up.





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 Posted: Thu Dec 6th, 2018 06:44 am
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Richard Daugird
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The black surrounding the switch is the cardboard insulator you are referring to?

Last edited on Thu Dec 6th, 2018 06:45 am by Richard Daugird

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 Posted: Thu Dec 6th, 2018 06:46 am
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Levi Mevis
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Yes, that comes off revealing the screw terminals for the wiring to attach to. 

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 Posted: Thu Dec 6th, 2018 06:48 am
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Richard Daugird
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Makes perfect sense, thank you so much!

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 Posted: Thu Dec 6th, 2018 06:53 am
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Levi Mevis
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You're welcome, like I said under that cardboard insulator your switch looks just like the one I posted pictures of. When you've rewired antique table and floor lamps as much as I have you kind of get familiar with most of the general lamp socket designs, and you realize they are generally the same design across all makes with slight variations between makers.

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