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 Posted: Tue Mar 12th, 2019 01:08 am
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Jack Blanchard
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I purchased a GE fan and it hums but won’t run. The blade spins freely. It looks like the cord has been changed and someone has worked on wires on the switch. What should I be looking for to get running? 
Thanks 

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 Posted: Tue Mar 12th, 2019 01:09 am
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Jack Blanchard
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Another picture 

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 Posted: Tue Mar 12th, 2019 04:01 pm
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Jack Blanchard
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Do you see any issues? 

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 Posted: Tue Mar 12th, 2019 04:02 pm
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Jack Blanchard
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Any issues? 

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 Posted: Tue Mar 12th, 2019 04:17 pm
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Andrew White
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Does your fan have a 3 wire headwire?
If so, I think your fan has a separate start winding in it which might not be energized (bad connection somewhere, wired incorrectly, etc).


Someone may correct me if I am wrong, its been a while since I have had one of these apart. 


Without the phase shift that the start winding provides, the fan will just hum and not much else. I wouldn't allow it to remain on for too long in such a state. 

Last edited on Tue Mar 12th, 2019 04:22 pm by Andrew White

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 Posted: Tue Mar 12th, 2019 05:27 pm
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Jim Humphrey
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Looks like it's a little late to suggest, but if you plug in the fan, push the speed control lever to an "ON" position, and give the blades a flip, the fan MAY start running.  It's probably fairly likely for your fan, since it at least hums.  If it doesn't start, that would indicate there's a problem with the main windings.  If it does start, you've got it narrowed down to the start windings.  It appears that you've got a three wire headwire, right?  Jim

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 Posted: Tue Mar 12th, 2019 06:21 pm
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Edward Stokes
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Andrew, your assumptions are correct.  The 3rd post looks like you have a 4 pole phase shift motor made by GE in the early 19-teens.  It has start windings in the stator, a speed coil mounted on the switch and a 3 wire head wire going between them.  These symptoms are almost always caused by an electrical problem related to those three things or their connections.
Jack, if you have the expertise then I think you should start by removing the switch and inspecting it for  loose or disconnected wiring.  Please post a picture of both sides of the switch if you can.

Next, I would disconnect the head wires from the switch and measure several resistances with an Ohm-meter.  Be sure to take notes and label everything so you can put it together correctly.  Label the 3 wires from the motor A, B and C.  Measure the resistance from A to B, B to C and A to C. (You might see readings from 40 to over 100 ohms.  What you don't want to see is 0 ohms for a short-circuit or an open circuit with extremely high ohms.).

The switch is a little more complicated.   Look at the diagram in the 22nd post:

http://www.afcaforum.com/view_topic.php?id=29118&forum_id=1&jump_to=236539#p236539

Put the switch lever in the Off position.  Looking at the bottom of the picture (at the top of the switch) measure the ohms between the "flying lead tap" (where the green wire in the picture was disconnected) and the #1 tap on the switch (where the yellow wire was disconnected). Next measure the ohms between #1 and #2, then #2 to #3.  You should see numbers in the single-digit to low double-digits.

Post your results so we can decide to do next. (If you get good readings everywhere then it's usually a matter of hooking everything up correctly.)

Good luck,
-Edward

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 Posted: Tue Mar 12th, 2019 06:42 pm
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Alec Burns
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Looks like someone painstakingly polishes the paint and brass without taking a look at the electrical. Sloppy. Nice fan!

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 Posted: Tue Mar 12th, 2019 09:02 pm
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Jack Blanchard
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Alec Burns wrote: Looks like someone painstakingly polishes the paint and brass without taking a look at the electrical. Sloppy. Nice fan!Lol I’ve been working on the parts I am comfortable with, fixed the cage, replaced screws, re doing connections and polishing. While try to get it running 

Last edited on Tue Mar 12th, 2019 09:22 pm by Jack Blanchard

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 Posted: Tue Mar 12th, 2019 09:03 pm
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Jack Blanchard
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A few more pictures, thanks for the help 

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 Posted: Tue Mar 12th, 2019 09:05 pm
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Jack Blanchard
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After cleaning and re doing connections I can get it to spin with some help but only with the blade off.  With the blade on it does not spin even with a helping hand 

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 Posted: Tue Mar 12th, 2019 09:15 pm
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Jack Blanchard
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[size=So I’m getting 200 ohms between head wire 1 and 2. Nothing between 1-3 or 2-3 ]

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 Posted: Tue Mar 12th, 2019 09:43 pm
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Edward Stokes
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Can you tell me how the wires were connected to the switch?  E.g, #1 to the line, #2 to the flying tap and #3 to the Hi tap on the switch.

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 Posted: Tue Mar 12th, 2019 10:12 pm
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Jack Blanchard
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Edward Stokes wrote: Can you tell me how the wires were connected to the switch?  E.g, #1 to the line, #2 to the flying tap and #3 to the Hi tap on the switch.I could tell you if I understood the question lol. Here’s pic of the other side 

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 Posted: Tue Mar 12th, 2019 10:16 pm
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Jack Blanchard
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Edward Stokes wrote: Can you tell me how the wires were connected to the switch?  E.g, #1 to the line, #2 to the flying tap and #3 to the Hi tap on the switch.Not sure if this helps 

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 Posted: Tue Mar 12th, 2019 10:21 pm
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Alec Burns
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Jack Blanchard wrote: Alec Burns wrote: Looks like someone painstakingly polishes the paint and brass without taking a look at the electrical. Sloppy. Nice fan!Lol I’ve been working on the parts I am comfortable with, fixed the cage, replaced screws, re doing connections and polishing. While try to get it running 

My apologies Jack. I thought you had just purchased it. Good work on the fan! Let us know if it works out!

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 Posted: Wed Mar 13th, 2019 12:27 am
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Vic Valencheck
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Your connections are good. You should disconnect the 3 head wires and then take your measurements. You should get readings from all three wires. If you don't you have an open in your head wire or at the spot where it was spliced to the stator or an open in your stator.

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 Posted: Wed Mar 13th, 2019 01:35 am
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Edward Stokes
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Sorry for the confusion.  I think you may be talking about the switch and I'm talking about the head wires to the motor.  Vic is correct, your connections look good.

To clear up the confusion you might want to start from here:

In order to check both the switch and stator we need a total of 6 resistance measurements - 3 for the switch and 3 for the motor/stator.  To get accurate measurements you need unhook the motor's head wires from the switch, but you can actually get away with unhooking just one. (This is enough to provide electrical isolation.) Look at the picture in the 10th post above.  Unhook the gray (??) head wire with the blue insulator at the top-left of the picture. (You can't quite see the connection, but it simply connects to a red wire that goes to the speed coil - the red wire you can see the on the left in the 10th post.)  Push the gray wire/blue spade to the side for the moment, we'll deal with it later.  

Measure 3 resistances on the switch/speed coil assembly:
    From the Red wire just discussed to Speed Tap #1.
    From Speed Tap #1 to #2 
    From #2 to #3
        (No need to measure #1 to #3)

Now we need to make 3 more measurements for the motor/stator:

Again looking at the 10th post there are 3 head wires: 
    The first is black wire with the blue spade in the bottom middle of that post. (It's connected  to #1 on the switch.)  Call it head wire A. 
     The gray wire/blue insulator you just unhooked above.  Call it B. 
     The black wire with the red insulator in the upper-right (next to the piece of masking tape marked 1).  Call it C.
Measure the resistances from:
     A to B
     B to C
     A to C
This is a lot of info.  Let me know if it needs clarification or is too confusing all together.  Otherwise, post the 6 measurements and we'll go from here.

Good luck,
Edward


Last edited on Wed Mar 13th, 2019 01:53 am by Edward Stokes

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 Posted: Wed Mar 13th, 2019 02:14 am
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Jack Blanchard
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Thanks for your help. I disconnected 3 wires from the head , So I’m getting 200 ohms between head wire 1 and 2. Nothing between 1-3 or 2-3. The switch instructions I’m confused on sorry 

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 Posted: Wed Mar 13th, 2019 02:49 am
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Lucas Beshara
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No reading between any pair means you have a short in the motor. It needs to be rewound unless you see a broken wire that could possibly be repaired

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 Posted: Wed Mar 13th, 2019 03:28 am
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Vic Valencheck
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Jack Blanchard wrote: Thanks for your help. I disconnected 3 wires from the head , So I’m getting 200 ohms between head wire 1 and 2. Nothing between 1-3 or 2-3. The switch instructions I’m confused on sorry

By nothing do you mean a zero reading(0.00) or infinity reading?

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 Posted: Wed Mar 13th, 2019 12:13 pm
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Jack Blanchard
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Vic Valencheck wrote: Jack Blanchard wrote: Thanks for your help. I disconnected 3 wires from the head , So I’m getting 200 ohms between head wire 1 and 2. Nothing between 1-3 or 2-3. The switch instructions I’m confused on sorry

By nothing do you mean a zero reading(0.00) or infinity reading?
Yes zero reading 

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 Posted: Wed Mar 13th, 2019 03:13 pm
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Jack Blanchard
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Well this can’t be good. Can I change these wires?

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 Posted: Wed Mar 13th, 2019 07:32 pm
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Edward Stokes
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Jack,


I looked through my notes and many Foum posts for typical readings but couldn’t find anything for a Round-Back or Continuous Star, which I believe is what you have.  Here’s a diagram that should show the wires going into the stator and typical resistance readings for a fan I worked on:  





Above you mention you got 200, 0, 0 ohms.  I would expect to see something like 180, 40, 220.  It looks to met that your Run windings (a.k.a. Main windings) are shorted either internally or in their connections.  Also, you mention the fan runs weakly with no blade if started by hand.  This can happen if the motor is trying to run using only the Start windings, further supporting this theory.  I believe you need to remove the stator to further diagnose the problem.

Please let me know if you have questions. 

I hope other members will voice their opinion as I do not consider myself to be an expert.  ANYBODY?

Good luck,

Edward

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 Posted: Thu Mar 14th, 2019 08:17 pm
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Jack Blanchard
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Thanks everyone for your help. From research I believe I have a bad stator. I have too much invested to buy a new stator. So if you have a used functional one for sale send me a message 
Thanks again 

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 Posted: Fri Mar 15th, 2019 12:37 am
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Lawrence Smith
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Jack, did you get the stator out of the housing? it might a simple repair at the back side of the stator. Common for brittle wires to break close to the metal housings.

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 Posted: Sun Mar 17th, 2019 11:17 pm
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Mitch W. Romero
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Lawrence Smith wrote: Jack, did you get the stator out of the housing? it might a simple repair at the back side of the stator. Common for brittle wires to break close to the metal housings.
Yeah some of those fans have a weird wrapping in the rear I broke a wire once in one like it was very hard to find but I found it . torn by a bolt upon removal of the stator take your time hunting

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