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Motor tag restoration  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Sat Nov 16th, 2019 09:12 pm
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Jim Roadt
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I can not believe this worked

I  used a variety of suggestions from other post


1.  Clean lightly and polish lightly with mothers mag polish


2.  Few light coats with black ( I used Lacquer ) gloss


3.  Let dry several days


4.  Magnification highly recommended


5.  Carefully remove black paint from raised areas


     I tried 1500 sandpaper on Popsicle stick and exacto knife 


     I found that the large tooth pick rubbed gently across worked the best


     It even did the tiny asterisks and very small # on right


6.  Not sure what to coat with  for final Shine.  I have read some products will wrinkle paint


7.  Most importantly take your time and dont do this for a living unless you charge $950 per


8.  When all else fails send to Don Coleman

 



Sorry about sideways ....thought I trimmed it..


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 Posted: Sun Nov 17th, 2019 07:16 am
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Alex Rushing
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Great work, Jim! Beautiful motor tag!
I am a pseudo stickler for fan resto, but not so much so I would be upset if a motor tag wasn't perfect. My Westy 164848G tag isn't nice, but the fan's overall look detracts from the tag imperfections.
I keep my sanity by accepting minor issues in the work I do.
That said, your post has me wanting to give the Westy G tag another go. :)

Last edited on Sun Nov 17th, 2019 07:20 am by Alex Rushing

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 Posted: Sun Nov 17th, 2019 12:42 pm
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David Kilnapp
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Nice job, Jim. Looks super. Besides Don Colman, Dan O'Toole also does a super job on motor tags.

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 Posted: Sun Nov 17th, 2019 04:39 pm
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Russ Huber
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Yes, those tag restorations can be a real treat, especially when your half way through the tag with the x-acto and you slip and get to start over. :D

I to used a fast dry rattle can lacquer and when I was done and felt the paint had a firm stick gave it a quick buff on the wheel with fine rouge. Living dangerously.  :D

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58a43c56f084eb056cd9a7f6-large.jpg

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 Posted: Sun Nov 17th, 2019 06:24 pm
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William Dunlap
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I would be interested in trying the lacquer sticks on tags as demonstrated in a recent video posted here. Sounds like a real time saver to me.
Cheers,
Bill

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 Posted: Sun Nov 17th, 2019 11:39 pm
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Alex Rushing
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Jim,
Drawing some inspiration from your attempt, I tried my hand at the Westy 164848G tag today. 

I had about the same luck with the background black. Mine didn't turn out nearly as nice as yours though.

Didn't have what I needed, so I used a true black permanent marker and 600grit sandpaper.
It doesn't match the brass on the fan, but I'll not cleat coat it for a few months and let it turn a bit more yellow and then clear coat it.




Luckily this was not the tag on the fan(which is polished right now). Strange I ended up with two short run micro date tags(only 1919), but gave me one to practice on. :)

Last edited on Sun Nov 17th, 2019 11:42 pm by Alex Rushing

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 Posted: Mon Nov 18th, 2019 03:51 pm
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Jim Kovar
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Hey, Jim, nicely done tag!  :thumbup


Where did you get your specs?











Mine were mail order...  :?


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 Posted: Mon Nov 18th, 2019 05:08 pm
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John Fengel
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This is a Vortalex Badge I just did. It's from a fan I got last May at Doc's meet in Harrison. I normally wash a badge in warm water and then use a soft cloth and Mothers' Mag Polish to shine it up without disturbing the paint. This time however the Mothers' went through the paint around the GE logo. I first found some lacquer that closely matched the original brown background, stripped all the paint and polished the brass with Mothers'. Paint doesn't like to stick to shiny surfaces so the better the shine the easier it is to finish. I then cleaned the badge using soap and water and acetone and applied 3 even coats of lacquer. I let that dry for a few days, then using a good quality 1500 grit wet and dry sandpaper cut into 1/4" wide strips about 3" long, dipped in a bowl of water with a couple of drops of Dawn soap. Dawn will help "wet" the surface and allow the water to stick to the surface. Then CAREFULLY began to lightly go over the areas I didn't want the paint. I don't use anything but my fingertips and change the paper often and keep the paper and the badge wet. If I encounter a difficult area I'll change to 1000 grit and I don't believe I've ever gone below that. Also, I feel using the just my finger tip gives me more control than using something to hold the sandpaper.
Once I have the Badge completed, I dry it off with a soft cloth and let it set for a couple of hours. If I've gone through an area where there should be paint, I start all over by stripping, repainting and sanding. After the completed Badge has set, take a soft cloth with some Mother's Mag Polish on it and polish the Badge. This will remove the light sanding marks and also shine any dull areas in the background paint. Sometimes I coat the Badge with clear lacquer but most of the time I apply 2 or 3 coats of Carnauba Auto Wax. If you use lacquer, I've found it best to use the same brand as the paint.
The Whiz badge, also pictured, took awhile because I had to stay away from the outer edges to avoid removing the paint. The "light" areas are reflections, not missing paint.

Anyway, sorry this is so long but I thought it might help someone out.

John







Last edited on Mon Nov 18th, 2019 05:08 pm by John Fengel

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 Posted: Mon Nov 18th, 2019 06:48 pm
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Richard Daugird
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Great job on both John.

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 Posted: Tue Nov 19th, 2019 05:24 pm
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Joel Schmid
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Wow John GREAT results !
Im going to try your technique next time I need to do a badge.

BTW - what does everyone do for a tag that has engraved lettering like a pancake tag ?
Its easy to polish the surface, but whats best way to highlight the indented engraved letters ?

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 Posted: Tue Nov 19th, 2019 05:46 pm
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Zackri Higgins
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Looks good Jim! Here’s the badge I restored on my R&M 2110. Used a small piece of plastic to scrape the high-areas. Not perfect but way better than it did look. 

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F5234F62-9EE1-4030-B7B5-D0782D5CA3F6.jpeg

Last edited on Tue Nov 19th, 2019 05:49 pm by Zackri Higgins

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 Posted: Tue Nov 19th, 2019 05:47 pm
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Zackri Higgins
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Motor tag from the same fan, that I also restored with the same technique.

Attached Image (viewed 305 times):

F23CB39B-3E01-44EC-808B-B0C88CC65A34.jpeg

Last edited on Tue Nov 19th, 2019 05:48 pm by Zackri Higgins

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 Posted: Tue Nov 19th, 2019 05:49 pm
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Chris A. Campbell
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You can use an airbrush, touch up burn through spots without starting from scratch on any solid colors. Pearl layers unfortunately need stripped.

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 Posted: Fri Nov 22nd, 2019 01:44 am
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Jim Roadt
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If pins could not be salvaged or found how do you reattach tag?
I have a good size pin but can not "pull" it in tight enough 

Thanks

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 Posted: Fri Nov 22nd, 2019 01:54 am
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Lane Shirey
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Jim Roadt wrote: If pins could not be salvaged or found how do you reattach tag?
I have a good size pin but can not "pull" it in tight enough 

Thanks

The trick I’ve found is to push on the outside of the pin and use a pliers to pull on the inside and kink it over before hammering it flat.  

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 Posted: Fri Nov 22nd, 2019 02:04 am
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Chris A. Campbell
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One a few occurrences same issue but limited to short distance under the head. Placed nail in drill and with small strip of sand paper, maybe 1000 grit was able to bring diameter in slightly.

If a good fit but snug, you may be better at tapping nail head vs pulling. Lay down several layers of tape to prevent damaging your tag

If you find that you are in need of a tighter fit use a punch to flair out the diameter of shaft under the head.

When I lay over backside of nail to hold tag the nail head is clamped with a wooden block and cloth or something in between to protect paint. With it secured down you can use flathead screwdriver or dull chisel to lay over nail shaft   


Jim Roadt wrote: If pins could not be salvaged or found how do you reattach tag?
I have a good size pin but can not "pull" it in tight enough 

Thanks


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 Posted: Fri Nov 22nd, 2019 02:10 am
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Chris A. Campbell
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You can also buy a more rounded head from JayCee

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 Posted: Fri Nov 22nd, 2019 02:22 am
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Jim Roadt
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problem solved.

one end on head other on shortened end of pin and squeeze. 


very tight no damage


Thanks




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 Posted: Mon Dec 2nd, 2019 11:12 am
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Alex Rushing
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Alex Rushing wrote: Jim,
Drawing some inspiration from your attempt, I tried my hand at the Westy 164848G tag today. 

I had about the same luck with the background black. Mine didn't turn out nearly as nice as yours though.

Didn't have what I needed, so I used a true black permanent marker and 600grit sandpaper.
It doesn't match the brass on the fan, but I'll not cleat coat it for a few months and let it turn a bit more yellow and then clear coat it.




Luckily this was not the tag on the fan(which is polished right now). Strange I ended up with two short run micro date tags(only 1919), but gave me one to practice on. :)
OK. So that post showed a pretty bad job. I tried two more times and think I can live with this one considering I didn't have the proper stuff to do it with.

From my Westy Resto project:
Two issues were the tag was just polished and didn't really "pop" and the paint scaled right on the top of the motor case(nowhere else like underneath, just at the top where it is right in your face. Lol)



Overpolished tag with my first attempt at an intricate motor tag restore.



Worked on paint first. Started with 400grit wet sand.



Then 600grit wet sand. I wish I had some 1000/1200grit paper, but will get that some other time.



Gentle polish with Auto Glym.




And the restored motor tag put on.



That had been bugging me, so it is a relief to have it looking halfway decent now. :hammer:

Last edited on Mon Dec 2nd, 2019 11:14 am by Alex Rushing

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 Posted: Mon Dec 2nd, 2019 04:08 pm
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Richard Daugird
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I have had many fans with great paint, except right on top near the tag, the first place that grabs the eye. I've had good luck with "Wet and Wild" black nail polish, I just felt a bit weird buying it...

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 Posted: Mon Dec 2nd, 2019 04:13 pm
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Alex Rushing
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I'll have to pick some of that up this week and experiment with it. Thanks, Richard!

I still have the original tag (polished) to try it on too. :)

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 Posted: Mon Dec 2nd, 2019 04:20 pm
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Richard Daugird
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Igot it at either Family Dollar, or Dollar General, was only .99 and is sort of a thin gel. Good for filling in chips.

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 Posted: Wed Dec 4th, 2019 03:00 pm
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David Allen
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I recently refurbished this Century Repulsion-Start motor from 1926, including nameplate restoration as described by Jim. It's not prepped as well as a fan would need to be, since this is more or less a hidden unit. But it still has the look. :)







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