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AFCA Forums > Antique Fan Collectors Association > Pre-1950 (Antique) > Odd BMY speed coil with resistance wire...

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Odd BMY speed coil with resistance wire...  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Sat Jan 11th, 2020 08:54 pm
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David Kilnapp
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Hello fellow collectors. I picked up this BMY today for $100. It was missing the power cord so I didn't know if it would run or not. It did on all three speeds.






It is missing the rear cap (which I have from Ted Kaczor).

I removed the speed coil and it was covered with deteriorating asbestos wrapped around a very rusty circular piece of metal. It fell off of the speed coil when I set it down. I figure the resistance wire that was wrapped around this was responsible for the second or third speed. The base of the switch looks just like the one from my sidewinder and kidney bowl. So here's my question, should I just ditch this and buy a BMY switch from Antique Fan Parts for $125 or should I have this one rewound with the resistance wire?






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 Posted: Sun Jan 12th, 2020 12:32 am
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Jim Humphrey
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Hi David,

I think the asbestos wrapped coil with the resistance wire is there to provide the phase shift for starting the fan.  The choke coil provides the two slower speeds.  I did a quick search here looking for the specs and a wiring diagram to replace the resistance coil with a capacitor to give the same effect, but no immediate luck.  Maybe you could do a search and see what you find.  Good luck!


Jim

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 Posted: Sun Jan 12th, 2020 12:34 am
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Geoff Dunaway
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  The later BMY's have that resistance coil wound into the stator so if you change the switch , you're going to need to match a stator to it. That winding won't work w/o the nichrome ring & to use that stator , u'd hafta rewire the ring if it's toasted.....unless the capacitor gurus have a solution to the problem thru capacitance. Good looking fan BTW :up:

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 Posted: Sun Jan 12th, 2020 12:47 am
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William Dunlap
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Yes, a capacitor can do the job of the phase shift if the coil is burned out. If not, then leave it until it does.
The resistance wire can be replaced as there is a lot of it around these days used for vaping machines. Match the gauge, the ohms per foot, then the length and do it yourself.
Cheers,
Bill

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 Posted: Sun Jan 12th, 2020 02:16 am
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Lane Shirey
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William Dunlap wrote: Yes, a capacitor can do the job of the phase shift if the coil is burned out. If not, then leave it until it does.
The resistance wire can be replaced as there is a lot of it around these days used for vaping machines. Match the gauge, the ohms per foot, then the length and do it yourself.
Cheers,
Bill

Dave, just replace with a cap. It’ll work perfectly. There’s a schematic on the forum that shows the value, etc.  

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 Posted: Sun Jan 12th, 2020 05:21 pm
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Jim Kovar
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Credit to John McComas.  :thumbup

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 Posted: Sun Jan 12th, 2020 07:49 pm
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Jim Kovar
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https://www.ebay.com/itm/402030741511


Last edited on Sun Jan 12th, 2020 07:49 pm by Jim Kovar

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 Posted: Sun Jan 12th, 2020 08:03 pm
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Jim Kovar
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FYI :  "MFD" is the same as
           "μF" (microfarad).  :D





Last edited on Sun Jan 12th, 2020 08:05 pm by Jim Kovar

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 Posted: Sun Jan 12th, 2020 09:23 pm
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David Kilnapp
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Wow, this seems like a pretty easy fix and for very short money. Two more questions: Is there any directionality on this capacitor that is, does it matter which wire goes toward the coil and which goes away (red vs black)? And secondly, I cut the head wires back to within an inch of the stator and will join new wires (Toney Clayton's nice 3 conductor wire) to those leads with solder. I put my ohm meter on the three leads and all combinations have the same reading, about 40 ohms give or take. So does it matter which lead goes to which connection on the switch? Partdon my stupidity. I'm used to seeing different ohm meter readings on the head wires.

Ooops, I read the post above and answered my own question. Just ordered the capacitor for about $2

Last edited on Mon Jan 13th, 2020 12:05 am by David Kilnapp

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