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Stator, Westinghouse Style 516860  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Wed Dec 23rd, 2020 01:55 am
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Dan Vanderpool
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Hello, I need help.  I am seeking (I think) a stator for my Westinghouse Style 516860,  Mfg. date 1-22-26.  Does anyone have one for sale, or can someone advise me?  It was a job getting the fan all apart, especially the stator.  I hate to think it was all for nothing and I cannot save it.  Thanks, Dan

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IMG_20201222_202046166.jpg

Last edited on Wed Dec 23rd, 2020 02:02 am by Dan Vanderpool

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 Posted: Wed Dec 23rd, 2020 02:24 am
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Mark Olson
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I can not tell from the photos. Is there obvious mechanical damage to the stator? Are there electrical faults?

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 Posted: Wed Dec 23rd, 2020 02:34 am
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Alex Rushing
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Hey Dan,
Does the stator have an ohm reading?

These shaded six pole motors are extremely good, and rarely go bad. They're so good, they'll run a 1910s six wing brass blade all day.

You can wire that stator directly to the line and see if it runs.

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 Posted: Wed Dec 23rd, 2020 02:29 pm
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Dan Vanderpool
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Mark Olson, Thank you very much for your reply.  Both of the connections are shredded away.  It is evident that someone along the way has re wired it and now the connections are just a couple of strands of wire.  Not enough there to get a solder connection.  I just figured that would make it a candidate for the trash bin. Dan

Last edited on Wed Dec 23rd, 2020 02:33 pm by Dan Vanderpool

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 Posted: Wed Dec 23rd, 2020 02:32 pm
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Dan Vanderpool
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Alex, As I stated above to Mark, there are no connections left to connect to.  Dan

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 Posted: Wed Dec 23rd, 2020 02:34 pm
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Mark Olson
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If you are in no hurry, I will rewind it for you for cost of the wire. It may be repairable without rewinding.

Last edited on Wed Dec 23rd, 2020 02:43 pm by Mark Olson

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 Posted: Wed Dec 23rd, 2020 05:40 pm
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Alex Rushing
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Hats off to you, Mark! Very generous, Sir!

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 Posted: Wed Dec 23rd, 2020 07:21 pm
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Dan Vanderpool
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Mark Olson, Thank you very much.  This is very kind of you and generous to say the least.  Yes, I will take you up on that offer.  What do you want me to do next, pack it up, get your address, or, you name it?  Thanks again Sir,  Dan 

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 Posted: Wed Dec 23rd, 2020 07:42 pm
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Dan Vanderpool
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Mark, Since you seem to be very knowledgeable about early Westinghouse fans, can you tell me how this operates and how to use it.  It is off of the front of my Style 516860.  Evidently it is an OILER of sorts. The small push button operates on a spring, but it does not come apart (that I can see) and there is no wick.  Would you know?  Thanks, Dan

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IMG_20201223_143411769.jpg

Last edited on Wed Dec 23rd, 2020 07:44 pm by Dan Vanderpool

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 Posted: Wed Dec 23rd, 2020 07:59 pm
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Mark Olson
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Dan, that is an oiler. You push the ball down with the spout of the oilcan and add drops of oil. I will p.m. you my mailing address for the stator repair.

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 Posted: Wed Dec 23rd, 2020 10:14 pm
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Alex Rushing
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You'll want to get in there and make sure the felt roll is packed to the point it is contacting the rotor shaft. Otherwise it doesn't work.





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 Posted: Thu Dec 24th, 2020 02:48 pm
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Dan Vanderpool
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Thanks for the pics.. I was successful in removing the oil filler cap (ball bearing). And I noticed a couple of things. Can these felt wrapped wicks BE PURCHASED? This one must be the original because the felt wrapping is sewn around the MANY wicks. Also, there are a couple of holes in the oil/wick reservoir (see pic), what are they for, oil circulation?  And lastly, how could you see a portion of the wicking inside of the bearing?  The holes are horizontal and the wicking is vertical?  Perplexing... 

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 Posted: Thu Dec 24th, 2020 04:34 pm
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Alex Rushing
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That is a drain to the base of the enclosed oil reservoir. Takes excess oil back to the bottom of the wick roll.
I took some green base felt, and rolled it with 8-10 little wicks cut to length.
The bearing has an opening inside cut out for the roll to contact the rotor shaft. Look directly in, and you should see an opening in the bearing. With a new wick pack, it will be seen looking directly into the open bearing, like the barrel of a gun, but safer. :imao

The third photo I posted shows it protruding into the bearing. :)

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 Posted: Thu Dec 24th, 2020 06:41 pm
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Dan Vanderpool
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Thanks, and I understand what you are saying, but how do you get it to go inside of that small hole in the bearing, looks impossible?!  And I guess since you made your own these cannot be found for sale?

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 Posted: Thu Dec 24th, 2020 07:34 pm
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Alex Rushing
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Dan Vanderpool wrote: Thanks, and I understand what you are saying, but how do you get it to go inside of that small hole in the bearing, looks impossible?!  And I guess since you made your own these cannot be found for sale?
I made the bundle, rolled the felt extremely tight, used thin, long NN pliers, and stuck it down in the large opening where the ball filler goes back in. Once I let the pliers unleash the bundle, it popped open and filled the cavity. The old stuff is pulled out the same way, but piece by piece. When you roll the wicks up, make sure the open end of the roll is to the left of the opening.

When you have the old stuff out, just use a craft style pipe cleaner to open the drain hole, and a cloth wrapped a around a screwdriver/soaked in a solvent, down in the ball filler chamber.

It isn't an easy oiler style to redo, so you rarely see them redone. Unfortunately they have the same issue as oil cups/returns, as they get hard and crusty over the 90+ years.
I prefer oil cup jobs, but once you do one of these styles, they're a breeze from there on out.  :)

I'm not the best at explaining things, but hope that helps. Once Mark has decked out your stator, the bearing carrier will be ready to roll too!

This custom job has the same motor and bearing carrier/oiler system as your 516680, as that is how ot began its life as a stump. Cage/badge/blade are all pre-1920.
These motors are also great, because they got rid of the neck seating into pot metal, and pinned a steel block on the motor case, and drove the neck into the block. The oscillator is smoother as well, and leas prone to breaks.  :clap:


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 Posted: Fri Dec 25th, 2020 03:52 pm
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Dan Vanderpool
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Thanks a million, I really appreciate all of your expert advice.  I already had the old roll out, it came out in one piece, fairly easy. It must have been the original because the felt was sewn together to make a roll (kind of like an eggroll) I had to cut the felt open to see the wicks inside. Should the ROLL of wicking be open at both ends, TOP & BOTTOM? The only part I am a little unclear on is where you said, ----"Make sure the OPEN END of the roll is to the left of the opening".  You kind of lost me there. LOL   MERRY CHRISTMAS!

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IMG_20201225_104631510.jpg

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 Posted: Sat Dec 26th, 2020 05:21 am
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Alex Rushing
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Oops. Merry Christmas to you as well!
You're certainly welcome! 
When I rolled new wicks up in some new green felt, I didn't tie anything around it, so the roll has the cut off edge of felt away from the rotor shaft. The top and bottom are open indeed. :)

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 Posted: Sat Dec 26th, 2020 04:27 pm
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Dan Vanderpool
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OK, I think I see.  You mean to the left as you look at it from the front.  I have been looking at it from the rear!  LOL

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 Posted: Thu Jan 7th, 2021 11:16 pm
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Dan Vanderpool
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Hi Alex, Happy New Year to you.  I finished packing the front OILER with wicks and green felt.  As you said, it was a challenge.  I have not oiled it yet, though I would wait until I have assembled all. I used a long hemostat and that worked just fine (my wife is a nurse LOL).  Now I am seeking your help with the rest of the lubrication needed. I have attached a picture.  Can you advise me how to pack this?  What is the material to use?  Is it oil/grease? 

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IMG_20210107_174856216.jpg

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 Posted: Fri Jan 8th, 2021 01:22 am
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Alex Rushing
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I gotcha man!


That wick will get soaked in oil to rub on the drive worm/shaft.

Grease on the brass gears and engagement ball bearing parts. :)









Hope that adequately answers the question! :)

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 Posted: Fri Jan 8th, 2021 01:38 pm
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Dan Vanderpool
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In the first pic you say a new ROLL of felt wick.  What does that mean?  Is it just like a did on the oiler, wrap green felt around wicks. Or just wind wicking around in a circle inside the hole? Thanks

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 Posted: Fri Jan 8th, 2021 03:17 pm
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Alex Rushing
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Coil of wool wick would have been more appropriate of a reference to use in hindsight. Most of the oil wicks are primarily made of wool, not felt. That fan and pictures was maybe the 5th or 6th fan I restored since starting in August '19. So the terminology and such was still relatively new to me.
Here is what I used in the circulator cavity. Made of wool.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-16-Antique-Fan-Wick-Vintage-Fan-Restore-Wick-GE-Emerson-Westinghouse/203180561060?hash=item2f4e8152a4:g:mW0AAOxyUQpRGANj

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 Posted: Fri Jan 8th, 2021 05:20 pm
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Dan Vanderpool
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OK, looks simple enough.. Is it just wrapped around once or is it coiled in a couple of layers?  Sorry for all of the questions.:hammer:

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 Posted: Sun Jan 10th, 2021 09:13 pm
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Dan Vanderpool
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Alex, I have a question for you. The roll of FELT WICK that I installed in the OSCILLATOR ENGAGEMENT CAVITY, does that get soaked in oil.  I ask because the gears that sit right on top of it will be covered with grease right. Thanks

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 Posted: Mon Jan 11th, 2021 02:02 am
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Alex Rushing
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I don't think it is an issue, because the grease couldn't navigate reliably onto the worm as it is. No other reason I can think of why they put the wick there to rub the worm. Grease only works in areas where it isn't wiped off.
Yes, one thick wick wrapped once. Did the same to my 164864B(1916) and 164848G(1919) as well.

Last edited on Mon Jan 11th, 2021 02:07 am by Alex Rushing

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 Posted: Mon Jan 11th, 2021 02:06 am
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Levi Mevis
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I believe this would also apply to the first generation PowerAires. 

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