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 Posted: Wed May 10th, 2017 01:57 am
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Russell McClure
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Hey Guys,

I got the motor shell apart on this fan, but can't get the stator out.  It looks pressed in and there is no way to get behind it.  I need to replace the head wire.  How in the world can I get the stator out?

Also, I need the little cover thingy for the switch.






Last edited on Wed May 10th, 2017 01:58 am by Russell McClure

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 Posted: Wed May 10th, 2017 12:39 pm
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Lane Shirey
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The insulator on the switch is fairly easy- the stator not as easy. 

The insulator was originally molded onto the lever and has broken off. It can be cast out of JB Weld using a basic cardboard mold and then shaping it with grinding and sanding tools. Member Darryl Hudson can also cast them. In either case the lever will need to be removed from the switch to do the repair. 

As far as the stator, many of us stay away from stamped steel motor Westys for this reason.  They are not at all easy to remove. You can use the search function on this site and you will find several methods which will have varying complexity and success chances. These are by far the most difficult stators to remove without damaging anything. 

In my opinion, stamped steel Westys are not the best candidate to begin learning to restore. For other restoration help, the search function will likely help you out. You will also find instructions on molding the insulating tip there also. 

All the best! 

Lane

Last edited on Wed May 10th, 2017 12:41 pm by Lane Shirey

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 Posted: Wed May 10th, 2017 05:14 pm
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Russell McClure
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Thanks for the response. I'll likely try and save the head wire and make an insulator for the switch with JB weld. I use that stuff for a lot of other things.

I may splice a new head wire on to the old one and cover it in new cloth. The wire is in good shape up next to the motor.

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 Posted: Wed May 10th, 2017 05:35 pm
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Lane Shirey
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Does it have the little access plate where the headwire enters the motor?  If so, mark and snip the headwires to a reasonable length, maybe 1" from motor.  Remove the access plate, and use a heat gun to gently warm and soften the old  wiring.  When it becomes pliable, GENTLY maneuver the excess out of the access hole and straighten it as much as possible so you can do the repair. 

When they cool, they will become hard again- be careful not to break the insulation.  Now take heat shrink tubing just larger than each wire and slide it over each headwire stub, getting it as far into the motor housing as it will go.  Now trim the headwire stubs so there's just enough to splice and solder. Slide a piece of shink tubing over the new headwires so you can insulate after soldering. or use FRICTION tape.  Keep the repairs as compact as possible. Don't forget to mark the heatshrink, otherwise when it's all finished, all the wires will look the same. 

When all 3 repairs are done, now you'll reheat that old wiring and gently shove it back into the hole along with your splices.  Replace the access plate and you're done.  Not the perfect repair but better than you describe.   

If yours is early and doesn't have the access plate, you're stuck.

Last edited on Thu May 11th, 2017 11:55 pm by Lane Shirey

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 Posted: Wed May 10th, 2017 06:28 pm
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Russell McClure
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Yeah, mine is an early one. No access plate.

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 Posted: Thu May 11th, 2017 01:26 pm
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Michael Heffernan
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Russell, Contact AFCA member Tony Clayton. He has a tool for removing the stator. Have seen it in action, works nice.

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