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AFCA Forums > Antique Fan Collectors Association > Post-1950 (Vintage) > GE FM12V43 Finish/Paint is coming off

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GE FM12V43 Finish/Paint is coming off  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Wed Oct 2nd, 2019 01:29 am
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Alan Jurisich
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So pressed back in the wrong tab and lost everything I just wrote.  Round two.
The wife and I bought our first antique fan a few weeks ago for $20 at the flea market because it "didn't work".  One suicide-cable-to-the-stator later and I confirmed that it does indeed work.  Which excites the heck out of me because it puts it in "New Project" territory.  Territory my wife is not fond of but allows it because she likes what comes out of it time to time. So after lurking on here for a bit a bit and going through the process of dismantling and getting a feel for how everything is put together and operates I went to cleaning.  I followed some of the instructions from the Cleaning article on the repair/restore page.  Took a small part, the front bearing assembly, and went to cleaning with some lacquer thinner.  And the lacquer thinner went clean through the finish after a few rubs.  Now the wife likes what of the original color she can see, and I like what I can see.  So I'd like to keep as much of it as I can, which i'm not very optimistic about.  The larger parts have some extensive surface rust.  So out of curiosity does anyone know what GE used in 1950 to coat their fans and how to best replicate it? 

I'm trying to think of some alternatives as well such as stripping the whole thing and giving it a matte clear powder coat.  Would love an excuse to get a powder coat system. I was also wondering where some of you bought your Hazmat.  Things like insulating varnishes and electrical cleaners.  










{{ Front Bearing Assembly after lacquer thinner }}


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 Posted: Thu Oct 3rd, 2019 01:45 pm
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Gunner Lake
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I like to use Brake Cleaner (or engine de-greaser could work too) for removing old stuck-on grease. I applied quite a bit to a rag or Q-tips and used on this same model fan with nice original paint, and it did not damage it. For surface rust try WD-40 and a very fine steel wool (#00). You can go a bit coarser on the cage since it was unpainted and shows more rust. A wire brush works too for starting on the cage, but be wary using a wire-wheel - they can grab the cage and mangle your fingers!

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 Posted: Thu Oct 3rd, 2019 04:35 pm
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Tom Zapf
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Make sure whatever you are using does not take the laquer off the windings (copper wires) or you will have an instant dead soldier the minute you plug it in 

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 Posted: Fri Oct 4th, 2019 11:29 pm
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Alan Jurisich
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Not completely dead, I would have to rebuild the windings which would be a total pain in the rear.... Speaking of. I noticed the windings seem to be kept in place by pressure plate held in by what i'll describe as a spring plate wedged in. has anyone ever tried removing the stator's coils on one of these before to thoroughly clean and re dip the core? I have some concerns about damaging the insulation of the interconnections between the wingdings with the movement but figured I'd ask.

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 Posted: Fri Oct 4th, 2019 11:33 pm
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Alan Jurisich
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Close up of those levered in spring/pressure plates.  Also forgot about the shadded pole connections.  That could be a bit dodgy.



Getting kind of tired of the photos uploading sideways.

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 Posted: Thu Oct 10th, 2019 04:34 am
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Luke Skelnik
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It's all in the prep work. I painted this with rustoleum 

Attached Image (viewed 75 times):

20191002_145519.jpg

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 Posted: Thu Oct 10th, 2019 04:34 am
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Luke Skelnik
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.

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20191003_151944.jpg

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 Posted: Fri Oct 11th, 2019 11:37 am
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Zackri Higgins
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Luke, that looks incredible! What color is that? Has a very ‘50s vibe to it.

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