|View single post by David Allen|
|Posted: Wed Oct 9th, 2019 06:54 pm||
|Al Blake wrote:
I found that two pieces can tap out of the stator. Unlocking all the secrets! haha
Hi Al. That's looking good!
For the wire, you'll want to measure the diameter of the wire with a caliper. There are charts which show how many thousandths in diameter each wire gauge is. You'll probably find it's a little in between, but you can get a size which is close. If it's dead-center in between two sizes, go smaller or the coil may not fit in the motor (voice of experience!).
When you order the wire, order "200C" or "Class F" wire. This is a very high temperature wire and will not degrade over time at normal operating temperature, as the original did.
There are supposed ot be paper "liners" in the slots of the stator core. These keep the winding from getting cut and shorting out by the iron sheets making up the lamination. For this, order Nomex paper.
For the new stator lead wires, you can get Teflon insulated wire which has a nice, thin profile and will not be bulky and hard to integrate into the coil.
Finally, to wrap the coils and hold them in the shape they need to be; you'll want Kapton tape.
And, finally, to seal and secure everything, a coating of Class F rated varnish will top it all off!
I'm no expert and have only rewound one motor. It was a 4-pole unit with removable coils.
With this type motor, the direction the motor runs is set by the shading coils. These are the copper bands which are in the stator after the winding was removed. If these are flipped around the wrong way, the motor will run backwards.
Here is a video about my first and only attempt at a rewind: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xjxLlDxgxKg