View single post by Alex Rushing
 Posted: Wed Apr 7th, 2021 07:58 am
PMQuoteReplyFull Topic
Alex Rushing



Joined: Thu Dec 14th, 2006
Location: Montgomery, Alabama USA
Status: 
Online
Restoration of 1906 Emerson 1510. My first ornate piecrust Emmy! Woohoo!
A small grommet is on the way to screw in the motor to finally complete it.



The fan I bought, and keep in mind seller made it right after I showed him the issues. Seller pics:
[size=
]

[size=
]
The other photos don't show the extent of problems apparent when I received the fan.





After Resto Photos:
[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]


[size=

]
Video of fan running, and me running my mouth, in HD:



[size=

]
So, story began when a fellow member was liquidating some fans, and listed this 1510. At the time, we thought the cracks were in the Japan, so I had planned on repainting the motor case.
Well, when it arrived, that is when things went sideways big-time. I figured this to be an easy fix and have a nice restored first early Emmy in my modest collection.....Wrong.


I noticed oil coming out of cracks around the shaft press-in on the back, poor running (lots of extraneous noise), and used my fingernail to pick the paint from the front after suspecting it wasn't cracked Japan. Didn't seem like Japan. Just some decent black paint over a grey primer over cracks in the iron itself. There was flex in the top, sponge flex in the shaft visible from inside/outside the motor case.
So, I picked the black goop out from inside the case and front bell, which was easy as oil seeped under it. I traced every crack with a red marker and devised a method of attach. I consulted Paul G.(the man to go to with this stuff), and my father(who is a good welder); and both concurred my plan would be the best course of action. Brazing can cause shaft drift from overheating. Used my Mig to complete the welding attack plan, cleaned it up, and painted the welds/iron inside the case and bell. Kept the metal slightly warm with a propane torch to avoid fast expansion. I'm not a good welder, but am patient and tenacious! Haha


I then cleaned the outside visible hairlines and filled with cyanoacrylate. Dried and sanded smooth as silk. Wire wheeled and sanded the entire fan as well. The clear coat bubbling and lifting on the base was unsightly, so just restored the whole fan. Motor tag was in acceptable condition though, and I had removed before welding to avoid burning it. Funny it was the only thing holding two HUGE wedges of iron in the top. Haha
So a couple of less significant issues included a stripped wingbolt, but Steve Hankes was kind enough to send one out to me!


The rear plug threads were junked, so I put an o-ring between it and the motor case, which sealed well when motor was assembled(tightening the front rotor retainer bolt).


Switch was in good working order, so I patched a broken cloth insulation cover on one lead and varnished the crap out of it. Also re-pooled the skimpy solder.
Stator is definitely Sydney Lamb's work and was the nicest thing about the fan. One of the best rewinds I've ever seen. The blade being second, and switch/rotor third.


I rebuilt the start plate assembly in the rotor, because all the oil flying around from a marred rotor seat made it filthy. I then used fine sandpaper and the edge of the rotor switch end to make it perfectly flat. A thin o-ring now resides in the conical space between the rotor rear and back fiber washers I replaced with new ones. No oil leak anymore.


Black paint is my go-to Rustoleum Advanced Formula Gloss Black rattle can, and I used an oil based paint marker(gold) to hand paint the letters and vent holes front bell and rear case. I clear coated the motor tag, after cleaning up, to give it a better shine.


Two strut screws were stripped, so I tapped for 10-32 on all four and replaced with identical head 10-32 brass screws cut-off and polished.


After the paint came out aces, the blade was out of balance and had spotting on the back now glaring at me, and scratches on the front. Had to actually remove some trailing edge on the patent stamped wing to get it smooth as silk. I gave it a good polish front and back, then painted the iron hub(had some sort of red and black faux rust paint job on it) semi gloss black. The cage was bent up and wiggly, so straightened that as well, then high polished it.


So, without anymore chapters of this book being written, here are the insane number of process photos - slightly smaller than normal so it won't take 200 years to scroll through.
[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]
New case/yoke spacers cut and colored.

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]

[size=
]
Thank y'all for checking this one out! Definitely a new favorite, because of the situation of expecting someone else's work, but then getting to make it my own!

Last edited on Sun Apr 11th, 2021 10:25 am by Alex Rushing