View single post by David Hoatson
 Posted: Thu Oct 7th, 2021 02:41 am
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David Hoatson



Joined: Sat Oct 5th, 2013
Location: Chestertown, Maryland USA
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Tom is correct. 
To unscrew the oil cup you can remove the locking setscrew in the side of the oil cup, unscrew the four plugs in the side of the oil cup that are used to add lights, place a long shaft or screwdriver through one hole and out the other, and use this as a handle to unscrew the oil cup. 

Or, wrap something around the oil cup to protect it, clamp the oil cup in a vise, and grab the main body of the fan and unscrew it. 

If you can’t find an exact replacement at a bearing supply store, you can get a common metric ball thrust bearing on Amazon. The ID of one race may be a little tight, so grind it larger if necessary. The new bearing may also be thinner. If so, add one of the old races or a shim washer on top. 

Most ceiling fans can leak oil past the axle threads into the switch area. I wipe a sealant on the axle threads. Yamabond 4 is my favorite. 

Some GE’s use rare screw sizes, like 1/4-24, so don’t loose any screws. 

A pipe wrench is necessary when dealing with downrods. 

For some reason, some new downrod pipe threads (NPT) are a little larger than the old ones and may not screw in as far. If this happens to you, get a plumber or hardware store to cut the pipe threads deeper. 

For the internal interconnection wiring, I get small diameter (18 & 20 gage) solid (not stranded) cloth covered wire from Tube Depot. Use 22 gage if you need to. 

Contact me if you want to talk. Info@ChestertownElectric.com