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 Posted: Sat Nov 7th, 2009 08:51 pm
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Adam Rohn
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 My motor is shot in my 1912 westinghouse so I'm gonna just continue restoring it cosmetically (at least until I get another motor) but the piece that makes the fan head pivot up and down won't go in. When I went to take it apart it was also very tight.. I took a grinding attachment to my rotary tool and also sandpaper but its still not going in. Any ideas?

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 Posted: Sun Nov 8th, 2009 02:27 am
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John Koetting
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are you talking about the bolt type thing that goes through the middle or the actual neck peice? IIRC the bolt type peice is sort of keyed and will only go in facing one way. if you mean the actual neck peice its just a tight fit and will go in with some convincing, i had to sand mine a bit as it seems rather rough in there and was hard to put back in. The fan i have is only one year newer than yours!

I too am doing a full restoration and slight customization to my fan, it started out as a kinda rough non runner so I figured it would make good practice. so far i have completly stripped it and layed down a coat of gloss black lacquer, couple more coats and some wetsanding to go before i post pictures tho! have done quite a bit of cleaning up and reshaping some of the cast metal peices, the gloss lacquer doesnt hide faults like the old japanned finish did!

Last edited on Sun Nov 8th, 2009 02:32 am by

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 Posted: Sun Nov 8th, 2009 02:36 am
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Adam Rohn
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Thanks John. Yeah, I was talking about the neck piece. Its really tight, I have to use a hammer to tap it out. I'll try the same to get it back in, I guess.  I hope you had better luck with your fan then mine..The motor is trashed on mine :( so I'm gonna restore it cosmetically and hope some day I can get a motor for it. I'm looking for the complete unit (motor, housing, headwire) just to make my life easier.

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 Posted: Sun Nov 8th, 2009 02:42 am
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John Koetting
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the motor on mine is a big fat questionmark until i wire it back up and test it. it didnt run when i got it and the enamel coating on the windings is pretty damaged. the measurements i got for the headwires are as follows
R-Y = ~30 ohms
Y-G = 21.8 ohms
R-G = ~51 ohms
I have no idea if thats good or bad, search didnt turn up much. and i wouldnt be supprised if i bent the back of the motor housing trying to remove the stator. regardless of if it works or not its going to be a nice looking fan when its all put back together! this thread has pics of my other westinghouses baseplate and speed control which i just cleaned up, put new felt on it today (not pictured)

Last edited on Sun Nov 8th, 2009 02:49 am by

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 Posted: Sun Nov 8th, 2009 03:49 am
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Steve Stephens
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John Koetting wrote:
...the gloss lacquer doesnt hide faults like the old japanned finish did!

John, if yours is a stamped steel Westy the original finish was, according to a 1917 catalog "Standard finish is dull black, smooth and lustrous--no joints, ridges, ro rough spots."
After the cast iron tank models Westinghouse did not use black japan. There should be no "faults" in a stamped steel housing.

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 Posted: Sun Nov 8th, 2009 03:53 am
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John Koetting
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the stamped parts are all nice and smooth but the "pot metal" cast pieces had a lot of casting and tooling marks and such that thick paint kind of covered up. the stamped steel parts had a finish that not even aircraft stripper would remove so i assumed it was some sort of japan finish.

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