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Emerson 19646 blade removal HELP  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Sat Jan 23rd, 2016 09:37 pm
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Louis Weedman
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I bought this fan 2 years ago and I'm finally working on it. I've been trying to remove the blade assembly for the 19646 with no luck yet. I positively locked the rotor with a screwdriver through the small hole in the rear housing, but the blade won't budge. I'm going in the direction it normally turns, correct? Soaking the area where the blade screws on with penetrant right now. Thanks!

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Last edited on Sat Jan 23rd, 2016 09:42 pm by Louis Weedman

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 Posted: Sat Jan 23rd, 2016 09:39 pm
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Louis Weedman
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Last edited on Sat Jan 23rd, 2016 09:42 pm by Louis Weedman

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 Posted: Sat Jan 23rd, 2016 09:50 pm
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Kevin Massey
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Hi Louis:

Good luck on the removal. I think some users have applied heat to get the blade to break loose. You should turn CW to remove blade. CCW to install blade. Others will be along to help you more.

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 Posted: Sat Jan 23rd, 2016 10:01 pm
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Mike Eckenroad
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check this out Here is a recent thread I had about this topic, use 2 of these bolts for sure into the threaded holes on the back and that will allow you to free up your hands so that you can really get a good grip and torque it. Make sure to use 2 though in this instance because of the force your will be applying. Sometimes one will suffice but we already know in your case it is tight. Better to play it safe, good luck! 

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 Posted: Sat Jan 23rd, 2016 10:03 pm
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Louis Weedman
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As far as I knew, it was clockwise on all Emersons. I imagine if they were reverse threads the blade would loosen while the fan is in operation.

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 Posted: Sat Jan 23rd, 2016 10:04 pm
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Mike Eckenroad
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Yes they are clockwise facing the fan, but that is reverse threads 

Last edited on Sat Jan 23rd, 2016 10:05 pm by Mike Eckenroad

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 Posted: Sat Jan 23rd, 2016 10:05 pm
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Louis Weedman
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Mike Eckenroad wrote: check this out Here is a recent thread I had about this topic, use 2 of these bolts for sure into the threaded holes on the back and that will allow you to free up your hands so that you can really get a good grip and torque it. Make sure to use 2 though in this instance because of the force your will be applying. Sometimes one will suffice but we already know in your case it is tight. Better to play it safe, good luck! 
I did this on my 19645, and it worked wonders! This 19646 is sans the threaded holes, unfortunately.

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 Posted: Sat Jan 23rd, 2016 10:07 pm
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Mike Eckenroad
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Louis Weedman wrote: As far as I knew, it was clockwise on all Emersons. I imagine if they were reverse threads the blade would loosen while the fan is in operation.really? I have 2 19646's one with a steel cage and one with a brass cage and both of mine have the 2 threaded holes... 

Last edited on Sat Jan 23rd, 2016 10:10 pm by Mike Eckenroad

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 Posted: Sat Jan 23rd, 2016 10:14 pm
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Mike Eckenroad
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I also noticed that you have a stamped hub blade on this one, I believe that later on in the production of this model they did use those, maybe the motor housing is different then. Both of mine have cast hubs. Sounds like you need 2 people for this job then, one to pin the rotor and one to turn the blade, this is how I had to do it with the tough ones before my handy dandy tool. 

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 Posted: Sun Jan 24th, 2016 02:07 am
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Don Tener
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If you remove the brass screw on the center rear won't that let you fill the blade hub with penetrating oil? 

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 Posted: Sun Jan 24th, 2016 02:48 am
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Tom Newcity
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Louis, If you have an extremely difficult blade to remove, you apply pressure to turn it at the hub.  I use self locking pliers.  Apply lots of heat to the hub with a heat gun.  Trying to remove a stubborn Emerson blade assembly by applying pressure to the blades can loosen the spider from the hub.   

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 Posted: Sun Jan 24th, 2016 02:52 am
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Steve Stephens
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Don Tener wrote: If you remove the brass screw on the center rear won't that let you fill the blade hub with penetrating oil? 

I don't think that will help. I have a 19646 stamped hub steel cage without the threaded holes.  For stubborn hubs I dribble several to 6 drops of penetrant down the outside of the hub to get it into the motor where the sealing leather washer is.  Reapply again after a day or so.  They heat the hub with a propane torch until it is very warm but no hotter than beginning to sizzle any oil or penetrant on the shaft or too hot to handle the blade and hub with a cloth.  I slowly turn the hub as I heat it.  When very warm put a small phillips head screwdriver into the appropriate rear hole where you won't contact the stator windings.  LOOK with a flashlight in to each hole to see which one(s) will be ok.  I have begun to put my Emersons on the floor with the screwdriver pointing out the back of the motor and the handle against the door molding which has some detail to help hold the handle from slipping sideways.   Hold the screwdrive in place with one hand and, with the other, grasp the hub with fingers around the wings and turn the blade CW while pushing back hard against the screwdriver pushing against the door molding.  Keep a steady torque on the blade for up to a minute and it should break loose but, sometimes, that just won't work, at least without more minor soaking with penetrant and applying heat again.  Keep the screwdriver shaft in a position where it won't move and dig into the stator.  Add some good luck to your process and you should have a loose blade.  Be careful to not torque the blade so much that the outer part of the hub loosens on the inner part of the hub where it is swaged together.

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 Posted: Sun Jan 24th, 2016 05:46 am
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Jim Kovar
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:pissed  If all else fails...



Just kidding, Louis!  :shock:   :P

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 Posted: Mon Jan 25th, 2016 03:48 am
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Louis Weedman
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Jim Kovar wrote: :pissed  If all else fails...


Just kidding, Louis!  :shock:   :P


I remember seeing that blade awhile back. That's what I don't want to happen to my fan! :hammer:

Last edited on Mon Jan 25th, 2016 03:49 am by Louis Weedman

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 Posted: Mon Jan 25th, 2016 04:04 am
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Louis Weedman
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Steve Stephens wrote: Don Tener wrote: If you remove the brass screw on the center rear won't that let you fill the blade hub with penetrating oil? 

I don't think that will help. I have a 19646 stamped hub steel cage without the threaded holes.  For stubborn hubs I dribble several to 6 drops of penetrant down the outside of the hub to get it into the motor where the sealing leather washer is.  Reapply again after a day or so.  They heat the hub with a propane torch until it is very warm but no hotter than beginning to sizzle any oil or penetrant on the shaft or too hot to handle the blade and hub with a cloth.  I slowly turn the hub as I heat it.  When very warm put a small phillips head screwdriver into the appropriate rear hole where you won't contact the stator windings.  LOOK with a flashlight in to each hole to see which one(s) will be ok.  I have begun to put my Emersons on the floor with the screwdriver pointing out the back of the motor and the handle against the door molding which has some detail to help hold the handle from slipping sideways.   Hold the screwdrive in place with one hand and, with the other, grasp the hub with fingers around the wings and turn the blade CW while pushing back hard against the screwdriver pushing against the door molding.  Keep a steady torque on the blade for up to a minute and it should break loose but, sometimes, that just won't work, at least without more minor soaking with penetrant and applying heat again.  Keep the screwdriver shaft in a position where it won't move and dig into the stator.  Add some good luck to your process and you should have a loose blade.  Be careful to not torque the blade so much that the outer part of the hub loosens on the inner part of the hub where it is swaged together.


Thanks! I know I have to be patient with it and eventually it will come loose. All I want to do is get this thing apart so I can rewire it and enjoy it.

Last edited on Mon Jan 25th, 2016 04:06 am by Louis Weedman

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 Posted: Tue Jan 26th, 2016 02:29 am
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Louis Weedman
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Listening to bluegrass music while nudging on the blade some more. Slow and steady wins the race...:D One issue I am having is the screwdriver is wanting to bend, which I think is taking away my leverage. 

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Last edited on Tue Jan 26th, 2016 03:46 am by Louis Weedman

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 Posted: Tue Jan 26th, 2016 12:15 pm
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Don Church
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Louis,

heat gun to melt the oil/grease sludge and sometimes a rap with a wooden mallet gets the stubborn ones off when the vise grips don't work.
I use a pointed screw driver to hold the rotor that was ground down to make an ice pick point (this hint from Tom Newcity)

I got the heat trick hint from an older auto mechanic here in this group who said "heat with a heat gun or torch and wack it with a hammer as last resort".

Don C.


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 Posted: Tue Feb 11th, 2020 01:44 am
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Richard Littlepage
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Ok now what about removing the stator?

Last edited on Tue Feb 11th, 2020 01:45 am by Richard Littlepage

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