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Centrifugal century S3 S4  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Sat May 6th, 2017 08:44 pm
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Matthew Albach
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here's a Century S4 rotor the S3 rotor is the sane except the backPart which is in towards the rotor to unscrew the back plate

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 Posted: Sat May 6th, 2017 08:45 pm
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Matthew Albach
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There you can see to get the spring you have to take The shaft screw off

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 Posted: Sat May 6th, 2017 08:46 pm
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Matthew Albach
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Here's  the front part of the switch weights 

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 Posted: Sat May 6th, 2017 08:47 pm
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Matthew Albach
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 Posted: Sat May 6th, 2017 08:49 pm
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Matthew Albach
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To clean the switch the weights can soak them in parts cleaner or use 0000 steel wool 

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 Posted: Sat May 6th, 2017 08:50 pm
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Matthew Albach
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Here's the back plate 

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 Posted: Sat May 6th, 2017 08:52 pm
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Matthew Albach
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Got the rotor all clean. Time to put back together.  once you put it back together the back plate must match The rotor holes plus the hole in the shaft 

Last edited on Sun May 7th, 2017 04:21 am by Matthew Albach

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 Posted: Sat May 6th, 2017 08:55 pm
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Matthew Albach
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To put the weight back in goes a certain way this way is  Wrong the second picture  right way The weights with the pin goes towards the back long weights go to the front 

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 Posted: Sat May 6th, 2017 08:56 pm
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Matthew Albach
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Right way 

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 Posted: Sat May 6th, 2017 08:58 pm
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Matthew Albach
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The front right way 

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 Posted: Sat May 6th, 2017 09:02 pm
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Matthew Albach
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Now you got together placing back to the motorBe careful not to bend the contact arms  go slow. 
When you got all complete get a kill watt meter to see. if the arms are 
Making contact and closing correctly if stays in the circuit the amps will be 
High.

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 Posted: Sat May 6th, 2017 09:06 pm
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Matthew Albach
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 Posted: Sat May 6th, 2017 09:11 pm
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Lucas Beshara
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Nice tutorial Matt!  I'll need that some day I'm sure

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 Posted: Sun May 7th, 2017 02:27 am
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Russ Huber
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I have your PM.  Good for you! :clap: :D  Every tutorial post remains archived for years in cyber space for the next post"EEE",  & others to reflect on.  I myself try to repost important information to keep it updated in cyber archive.


I have my split phase rotor broke down and in a zip lock bag for restoration. :D Thanks for your CONTRIBUTION.

Attached Image (viewed 244 times):

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Last edited on Sun May 7th, 2017 06:03 am by Russ Huber

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 Posted: Sun May 7th, 2017 02:53 am
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Matthew Albach
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Thank you Lucas, Russ
Do not soak the front plate with the copper ring in
Parts cleaner. The cleaner could eat the insulation off
Just be on the safe side !!!!!

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 Posted: Sun May 7th, 2017 02:54 am
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Matthew Albach
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Russ,That looks beautiful can't wait to see it when your done with it

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 Posted: Sun May 7th, 2017 03:18 am
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Russ Huber
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.

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 Posted: Sun May 7th, 2017 03:19 am
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Russ Huber
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 Posted: Sun May 7th, 2017 03:20 am
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Russ Huber
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 Posted: Sun May 7th, 2017 03:23 am
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Russ Huber
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Thanks again for your heads up on the guts of the Century Split Phase fan motor ROTOR. :clap: :D

Last edited on Sun May 7th, 2017 03:25 am by Russ Huber

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 Posted: Tue Dec 4th, 2018 03:04 pm
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Richard Daugird
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This is some good info. Need one for Westinghouse switches.

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 Posted: Tue Dec 4th, 2018 03:12 pm
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David Kilnapp
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That's a very useful tutorial and a very interesting looking fan. Thanks. I've worked on centrifugal switches on Westinghouse fans (mainly), and a few older Emersons but I've never seen anything like what you have in this Century. It's not at all intuitive to me from looking at your pictures how the switch works. Can you provide an explanation using your pictures? Thank you kindly.

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 Posted: Tue Dec 4th, 2018 04:38 pm
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Russ Huber
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This centrifugal mechanism motor patent from Edwin Pillsbury FILED IN 1911 solidifies any doubt the Century S4 desk fan motor was placed on the market possibly earlier than ……..1911.

https://patentimages.storage.googleapis.com/e8/c9/8b/af3d342e5c19e8/US1093074.pdf









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Last edited on Tue Dec 4th, 2018 04:42 pm by Russ Huber

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 Posted: Tue Dec 4th, 2018 04:45 pm
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Russ Huber
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This fan motor patent from Edwin Pillsbury FILED IN 1912 gives STRONG support the S3 was introduced and POSSIBLY marketed along with the S4 stationary and oscillating models in ……...1912.

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 Posted: Tue Dec 4th, 2018 07:18 pm
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Russ Huber
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David Kilnapp wrote:
It's not at all intuitive to me from looking at your pictures how the switch works. Can you provide an explanation using your pictures? Thank you kindly.
The laminated 2 segments within each of the 3 channels of the rotor are locked in a bent position when the rotor is at rest. The two copper start winding contacts mounted to the motor housing are in contact with the conductive ring seen on the front of the rotor. This completes the circuit to engage the start winding.  When the fan is powered the start windings are energized and the rotor starts and gradually gains momentum. As the rotor gains momentum the 2 joined segmented pieces seen in the images go from their bent position within the rotor channel to a straight position based on centrifugal force as the rotor spins faster and faster. As the 2 segments gradually straighten with rotor momentum, this in turn pushes the spring loaded plate holding the ring with the conductive copper ring out.  As the ring is pushed out by the straightening segments the copper start winding contacts mounted to the motor housing disengage from the conductive ring to the NON-conductive Gutta Percha insulation on the ring. 

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Last edited on Tue Dec 4th, 2018 07:19 pm by Russ Huber

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 Posted: Tue Dec 4th, 2018 09:19 pm
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Matthew Albach
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As that rotors spins up those weights move forward to lock
That front plate in place . Without those weights inside the front plate
Will spin with the rotor and damage the contact arms.

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