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How to take R&M pivot apart  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Sun Jul 30th, 2017 11:57 pm
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David Hoatson
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I know there is a trick to taking the knuckle pivot apart on an R&M, but I couldn't get the answer to appear in a forum search. 
This is a list no. 2404. 

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 Posted: Mon Jul 31st, 2017 12:28 am
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Lane Shirey
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David, I think this is actually the one that you tap from the threaded side of that cross stud. There is a hole through the center of that stud that offsets and jams the head pivot . Give it a try with a mallet. Not all the way out, just move it a little then try to remove the head, and repeat. If you go too far, you jam the head pivot stud. Might need a little penetrant if it doesn't want to slide.  
Hopefully that'll work. 

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 Posted: Mon Jul 31st, 2017 12:49 am
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David Hoatson
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I'll give it a try. 

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 Posted: Tue Aug 1st, 2017 02:03 am
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David Hoatson
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I still can't get it apart. Do I just need a bigger hammer?
It wouldn't run, but one motor wire was broken. I pulled the stator and am going to but a new headwire on. The speed coil showed open circuits on all the windings, but it was just oxidation on the wires where they wrap atound the switch screws. 

I cleaned one blade wing with acetone and it helped a good bit, but I'm going to give them a polish on the wheel and new lacquer. 

The gears are good. Just needs a clean and greasing. 

The two oilers have pretty large diameter wicks. I may have to buy large wicking from McMaster Carr. 

And it needs new felt. A nice fan. The front bearing has a little wear. I'll see if it runs OK. 

The fan was my customer's grandfather's. He worked at the R&M factory. 


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 Posted: Tue Aug 1st, 2017 03:12 am
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Lucas Beshara
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Got to love the high quality r&m speed control terminals...  just wrap it around the posts huh?
I soldered to short wires and terminated properly with this one. Can't find a finished pic but the way they did these wasn't top notch 




And I think the stator housing slips out of the neck befor the pivot bolt and wing nut needs to move. Try prying with a twist of a flathead. The pivot bolt looks like a as westy. 






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 Posted: Tue Aug 1st, 2017 04:33 am
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Jeff Jones
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Yes...that's it. the stator housing has to come out 1st...then the pivot bolt will tap out...when I saw the pic Lucas posted w/ the hole in it it reminded me...I just had a 3804 apart an it was the same way. Was trying to recall how I did get it out...but wasn't remembering until I saw his pic. The stud on the motor housing goes right through the pivot bolt. The screw on the inside of that (which looks like you have already removed) is what holds that into the neck. It should just lift out then.

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 Posted: Tue Aug 1st, 2017 02:05 pm
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David Hoatson
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The line cord had been replaced previously, but the original wire connection to the switch remained. It's interesting to see that 1) the wire end was formed into a loop like a modern crimp lug, 2) string  was wrapped around the end to keep the cloth insulation from unravelling, and 3) the two wires were looped around the switch standoff underneath as a strain relief. 







I'm not sure if I will leave this in place and splice the new wire to it or attach the new wire using the same technique. If the old wire is good electrically, I think I'll splice to it, as this preserves an interesting part of the fan. 
Or, I could bag it up and put it inside the base. 


Last edited on Tue Aug 1st, 2017 02:07 pm by David Hoatson

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 Posted: Sat Aug 12th, 2017 02:34 am
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David Hoatson
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I am impressed by the paint on the R&M. It cleaned up very easily with acetone and Q-tips. There are thin pinstipes on the base and motor. 








Before:




After:



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 Posted: Tue Aug 15th, 2017 11:24 pm
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David Hoatson
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I wired the line cord to the switch the same way the original was routed. 



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 Posted: Tue Aug 15th, 2017 11:27 pm
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David Hoatson
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The R&M is done. I've become a real fan of R&M fans. Very well made. Great paint. 























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 Posted: Tue Aug 15th, 2017 11:28 pm
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David Hoatson
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And here is a video:

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