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AFCA Forums > Antique Fan Collectors Association > Post-1950 (Vintage) > Stator Lead Wires / Headwire replacement - R&M Pedestal

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 Posted: Sun Sep 24th, 2017 03:43 am
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David Allen
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Here is a video where I replace the lead wires on a Robbins & Myers pedestal fan motor. The motor needed bearings, and during teardown, the lead wires were found to be rock-hard and the winding tie strings were breaking before the lead wires would bend.



The motor got new lead wires, string, and varnish.



It is a long video; but the entire process is shown and no "magic" appearing with the job half done stunts are pulled. :)







Hope this helps someone with their project!

Sincerely,

David

Last edited on Sun Sep 24th, 2017 03:44 am by David Allen

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 Posted: Sun Sep 24th, 2017 11:01 am
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Lane Shirey
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I'd love to see a turorial on the levolier/ toggle switch swap. There's a lot of broken 2 layer Levoliers out there. 

Also if you gently heat those old hardened wires with a heat gun, 90% of the time it allows you just enough time to straighten them out. They'll petrify again when they cool, but it just might keep from breaking a headwire off, etc. this is especially effective if it's a 1900-1930's cloth/ asphalt insulation on the wiring. It also works great on Westy stamped steel motors with the headwire access plate. It doesn't work so well on Emerson wiring due to the materials they used. 


Those headwires needed replacement, but in this case, it would have made removal of that end plate easier and less risk of snapping off a headwire. 

Also, McMaster sells waxed linen twine that is perfect for tying coils and headwires. I believe I use #6 and #8. One is thinner and fits underneath some coils that are very tight to the laminate core

Happy restoring! 

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 Posted: Sun Sep 24th, 2017 02:11 pm
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David Allen
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Lane Shirey wrote: I'd love to see a turorial on the levolier/ toggle switch swap. There's a lot of broken 2 layer Levoliers out there. 



Also if you gently heat those old hardened wires with a heat gun, 90% of the time it allows you just enough time to straighten them out. They'll petrify again when they cool, but it just might keep from breaking a headwire off, etc. this is especially effective if it's a 1900-1930's cloth/ asphalt insulation on the wiring. It also works great on Westy stamped steel motors with the headwire access plate. It doesn't work so well on Emerson wiring due to the materials they used. 





Those headwires needed replacement, but in this case, it would have made removal of that end plate easier and less risk of snapping off a headwire. 



Also, McMaster sells waxed linen twine that is perfect for tying coils and headwires. I believe I use #6 and #8. One is thinner and fits underneath some coils that are very tight to the laminate core



Happy restoring! 


Hi Lane.  I will definitely do a write-up on the wiring diagram for the switch swap!

I remember reading your advice on the headwire softening with the heat gun. For some reason these wires were pretty resistant to that. They seemed to start smoking and smelling really toxic before they softened. It has helped me quite a lot on other motor projects though!


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 Posted: Mon Sep 25th, 2017 02:46 am
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David Allen
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Follow-up:

Running with thyristor speed control:



Will have to see if the motor ends up getting too hot with this control. Hard to tell with the wrong fan blade!


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 Posted: Mon Sep 25th, 2017 10:25 am
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Henry Carrera
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Appreciate your videos David. :cool:

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 Posted: Tue Sep 26th, 2017 02:35 am
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David Allen
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Henry Carrera wrote: Appreciate your videos David. :cool:


Thanks Henry!

I had to replace the thyristor speed control with another switch in place of the Levolier switch. The motor wanted to run hot with the different waveform of the thyristor.  I started a new thread here:

http://www.afcaforum.com/forum5/48846.html

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