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 Posted: Thu Oct 5th, 2017 05:38 pm
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Richard Daugird
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I just got an 18" ILG self cooling fan. I don't understand how air gets into the tube to cool the motor. This is a bare fan, no enclosure.

I just mounted it on a piece of plywood to run it. I assume the original mounting was designed to draw air in there?

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 Posted: Thu Oct 5th, 2017 06:28 pm
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Michael Rathberger
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Check for a fan blade on the motor rotor. Dan brought a minty one by the house and we took the cover off and there it was...

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 Posted: Thu Oct 5th, 2017 06:49 pm
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Richard Daugird
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Motor has been replaced with something else. I thought it drew air from the front???

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 Posted: Thu Oct 5th, 2017 07:41 pm
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David Allen
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Richard Daugird wrote: Motor has been replaced with something else. I thought it drew air from the front???
Hi Richard. It is very simple how it works.  The fan blade crates a low-pressure zone around the front of the motor. This slight vacuum inside the motor housing causes air to be drawn in through the tube to cool the motor!

That's a very nice fan! Interested to see how you display / use it!

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 Posted: Thu Oct 5th, 2017 07:47 pm
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Richard Daugird
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I see now. I was thinking there had to be something to direct air into the tube in front.

This thing puts out so much air in a direct path, I'm not sure what to do with it. After seeing yours, I just knew I wanted one! I wonder, can I put a speed control on this? Test the motor for starting amps(?) so I know what to use? I am really limited in electrical knowledge.

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 Posted: Thu Oct 5th, 2017 08:00 pm
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David Allen
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Richard Daugird wrote: I see now. I was thinking there had to be something to direct air into the tube in front.



This thing puts out so much air in a direct path, I'm not sure what to do with it. After seeing yours, I just knew I wanted one! I wonder, can I put a speed control on this? Test the motor for starting amps(?) so I know what to use? I am really limited in electrical knowledge.

Richard, we need to know what sort of motor it is. Can you take close-up of the nameplate?  Certain motors can be reduced in speed while others will not work well that way.

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 Posted: Thu Oct 5th, 2017 08:04 pm
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Richard Daugird
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Yes I will take it out and get the info. Thanks David, I am amazed when I watch your videos.

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 Posted: Thu Oct 5th, 2017 08:11 pm
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Charles Tedrick
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It has a capacitor so it probably doesn't run very hot anyway. You can slow it down with a variac :light:

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 Posted: Thu Oct 5th, 2017 08:18 pm
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Richard Daugird
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I have been hearing these cheap generic "Variarc"s are not isolated, is that an issue? I tried to learn how to use one in conjunction with an isolator, made my head hurt!

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 Posted: Thu Oct 5th, 2017 08:51 pm
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Charles Tedrick
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The main thing is to get a variac that's rated at a higher amperage than what your fan uses. A 5 amp variac should be plenty string enough. All of my variac are fused to stop any damage before before it starts anyway.

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 Posted: Thu Oct 5th, 2017 09:01 pm
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David Allen
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Richard Daugird wrote: I have been hearing these cheap generic "Variarc"s are not isolated, is that an issue? I tried to learn how to use one in conjunction with an isolator, made my head hurt!
That's correct. A variac is a type of autotransformer. This has one winding with hundreds of voltage taps. This winding is connected to the incoming power and neutral. The load is connected to the movable contact which slides across the voltage taps. At max voltage it is directly connected to the incoming line.

For a fan motor like this, it shouldn't need an isolation transformer. You'll be fine with just a variac.

Another possibility is to use a voltage buck transformer which would provide a single, fixed low speed.

 

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 Posted: Thu Oct 5th, 2017 09:03 pm
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Richard Daugird
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I was thinking I'd get a 20 amp so I could run a large Mobilaire on my patio, or various desk fans. I realize startup amps are higher than amp rating printed on the motor.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Variac-Transformer-Variable-AC-Voltage-Regulator-Metered-2000VA-20Amp-110V-2KW-T/282565128506?_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908110712%26meid%3Dc274bd2220144765b12abd6a7b000345%26pid%3D100677%26rk%3D7%26rkt%3D30%26sd%3D282070618243&_trksid=p2385738.c100677.m4598

Last edited on Thu Oct 5th, 2017 09:04 pm by Richard Daugird

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 Posted: Fri Oct 6th, 2017 01:13 am
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Andrew Block
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That is a pretty good price for the 20amp. You can usually find vintage Variacs for $40-50 on Ebay. Might need a new cord but the older ones are (IMO) built better than the new ones.

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 Posted: Fri Oct 6th, 2017 05:59 am
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Richard Daugird
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Andrew Block wrote: That is a pretty good price for the 20amp. You can usually find vintage Variacs for $40-50 on Ebay. Might need a new cord but the older ones are (IMO) built better than the new ones.Vintage U. S. made would be the ideal. 

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 Posted: Fri Oct 6th, 2017 01:55 pm
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David Allen
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Richard Daugird wrote: Andrew Block wrote: That is a pretty good price for the 20amp. You can usually find vintage Variacs for $40-50 on Ebay. Might need a new cord but the older ones are (IMO) built better than the new ones.Vintage U. S. made would be the ideal. 
Hey, that one in the eBay ad has a US flag on the page, but says "trust in China" across the picture!  :imao

You can trust it.  Just always place it on an asbestos mat which extends at least 36 inches out from every side; and furthermore only use it in a room with a fully functional Halon fixed fire suppression system.....

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