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 Posted: Sun Oct 29th, 2017 11:12 pm
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Dan Foley
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Brought this Vorty ped home with me today after driving to Rutland, VT  :clap::








Found this junk wrapped around the motor shaft:


According to its previous owner, it was located in a restaurant kitchen for quite some time.  Hence why everything is covered in grease.  It seems like the original paint is still in pretty decent shape, does anyone know of a degreaser I could use that won't harm the paint?  Think some regular old dish soap might do the trick if I can soak the parts for a while?

Aside from needing a little work, it runs great and the blade seems to be in balance.  The wiring coming out from the motor is in good shape too.  Once I get it cleaned up I want to find a cage badge and a new switch for it.  I'll need some cage clips as well.

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 Posted: Sun Oct 29th, 2017 11:22 pm
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Gary Buchanan
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Great find and oustanding large pedestal in my opinion the quietest one.

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 Posted: Mon Oct 30th, 2017 12:57 am
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Andrew Block
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I can't promise it won't harm the paint, but Goof Off 2 seems to work well for degreasing. It actually looks like the paint was preserved by the grease.

I believe the 16" cage badge will fit these.

Great score!

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 Posted: Mon Oct 30th, 2017 01:58 am
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Stan Adams
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I use Go-Jo automotive hand cleaner.

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 Posted: Mon Oct 30th, 2017 04:12 am
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Zachary Parr
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Nice find

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 Posted: Mon Oct 30th, 2017 11:26 am
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Lane Shirey
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Try Dawn dishwashing soap first. It's the mildest. If that doesn't cut it. Mineral spirits will do it and shouldn't harm the paint. 

Harsher detergents (409, Purple Power, etc) or stronger solvents ( acetone, lacquer thinner) will likely damage the paint. 

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 Posted: Mon Oct 30th, 2017 02:59 pm
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Richard Littlepage
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Yeah dont make the 409 mistake. Outch i screwed a fan up that way. Darn rookies Shirey wrote: Try Dawn dishwashing soap first. It's the mildest. If that doesn't cut it. Mineral spirits will do it and shouldn't harm the paint. 

Harsher detergents (409, Purple Power, etc) or stronger solvents ( acetone, lacquer thinner) will likely damage the paint. 

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 Posted: Mon Oct 30th, 2017 08:05 pm
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Dan Foley
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Thank you all for the responses! I'll try out some dish soap and mineral spirits before moving onto some of that automotive hand cleaner.

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 Posted: Tue Oct 31st, 2017 02:23 pm
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Dan Foley
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I've been having pretty great luck with mineral spirits and a little WD-40 to loosen the grease up without damaging the existing paint.  Overall I'd say it's in fair shape, definitely not factory fresh but that's fine by me.  There's enough left on these parts so I'll just avoid doing a repaint.











Today I'll keep working away at the grime that's built up in the smaller crevices.  I'm hoping the paint should come back a little more once I polish it up and give it a coat of wax.  I'll most likely repaint the actual pedestal portion of the fan, I don't think there's much of the original paint left on it.

Last edited on Tue Oct 31st, 2017 02:26 pm by Dan Foley

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 Posted: Tue Oct 31st, 2017 09:22 pm
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Dan Foley
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The rotor was a lot beefier than I thought it would be, and thankfully it wasn't covered with grease:



I've also been cleaning up the outside of the motor, and it's still in good shape:


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 Posted: Tue Oct 31st, 2017 09:41 pm
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Lawrence Smith
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What size capacitor does that thing take? Thanks

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 Posted: Tue Oct 31st, 2017 10:44 pm
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Dan Foley
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This has a 7.5uf / 330VAC cap, which will be replaced with a newer 7uf.

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 Posted: Wed Nov 1st, 2017 01:42 pm
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Lawrence Smith
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Dan, thank you! 

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 Posted: Wed Nov 1st, 2017 03:18 pm
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Dan Foley
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No problem, Lawrence!

Despite some of the surface imperfections, I am happy with how the parts are cleaning up...and now they're not sticky to the touch:








The neck piece for the motor was almost entirely coated in grease residue when I brought the fan home:



Also if anyone wants that old capacitor just let me know, I'll send it out free of charge.  Otherwise I'm probably just going to get rid of it.

Last edited on Wed Nov 1st, 2017 03:22 pm by Dan Foley

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 Posted: Wed Nov 1st, 2017 11:27 pm
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Kevin Massey
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Your fan looks like a 70 plus year old fan should look. Enjoy it when you get it done.

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 Posted: Thu Nov 2nd, 2017 02:13 am
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Dan Foley
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Kevin Massey wrote: Your fan looks like a 70 plus year old fan should look. Enjoy it when you get it done.

I'm definitely going to put it to good use, I honestly never thought I'd come across one of these any time soon.  Aside from a Vader pedestal, one of these was near the top of my list for pedestal fans.  I love the normal FMxxV1 Vortalex fans, so having a giant tan blade Vortalex is awesome.



Also does anyone know of a good match for the paint on the cage?  I've been cleaning both halves up, but unfortunately a lot of the paint is coming off with the grease.

Last edited on Thu Nov 2nd, 2017 02:14 am by Dan Foley

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 Posted: Thu Nov 2nd, 2017 09:17 pm
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John Tatum
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I have the same fan and need the pull switch in the back and the cage clips also. Can everyone help. Thanks John

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 Posted: Fri Nov 3rd, 2017 01:29 pm
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Dan Foley
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If you're missing the switch entirely, another option is to use a 3PDT toggle. I'll be swapping one of those in until I can repair the stock pull chain switch.

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 Posted: Fri Nov 3rd, 2017 02:22 pm
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Russ Huber
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Dan Foley wrote:
Also does anyone know of a good match for the paint on the cage? 

AFCA member Paul Foster put new skin(close match) on one of those models. Also, if memory serves me right John Fengal matched paint to a table model.



Last edited on Fri Nov 3rd, 2017 02:22 pm by Russ Huber

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 Posted: Fri Nov 3rd, 2017 02:42 pm
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Russ Huber
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Dan Foley wrote:   I'll be swapping one of those in until I can repair the stock pull chain switch.
If you need the bead retaining clip and pull nipple send me a PM.  Those 3PDT switches are a good alternative if you have one handy.  Otherwise they are not cheap.

Attached Image (viewed 350 times):

untitled.png

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 Posted: Fri Nov 3rd, 2017 05:32 pm
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Andrew Block
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Dan, I will get you a pic of the cage clips when I get home this evening. The Vortalex cage clips hold the 2 halves of the cage together directly with no space in between. Otherwise the Freshn'daire clips are a viable alternative.

Contact member Ryan Nyugen for switch repair. He's replicated the linkage for the nipple to repair those switches. He's working on replicating the gears as well for the phenolic models.

On my fans, the cage has the same paint as the body of the fan, but has been overlaid with a transparent glaze which makes it appear darker. In a few spots where the glaze has scraped away, the paint is the same. Check your local Autozone in the automotive paint section. You'll need a couple of cans because it is very thin, but you should be able to replicate it or at least get very close.

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 Posted: Fri Nov 3rd, 2017 09:27 pm
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Dan Foley
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Andrew & Russ, thanks for the responses!  I may wind up seeking out some Fresh'nd Aire clips.  As for the switch, here's what mine looks like:



While it does need the retaining clip and nipple, the piece where the clip loops through is still present.  

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 Posted: Mon Nov 6th, 2017 12:49 am
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Dan Foley
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Turns out the levolier switch doesn't want to operate properly, so I wired the motor to a 3PDT switch for now.  A big thanks to both Andrew B. and David A. for answering a few questions I had in regards to the wiring!  

Here's a quick and dirty diagram I made for my own switch setup, the dotted lines are where I have certain terminals bridged:


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 Posted: Mon Nov 6th, 2017 01:34 am
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Russ Huber
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It APPEARS your brass clip that holds the bead chain and pulls the tongue to rotate the switch is jammed in the hole? :wondering:

Attached Image (viewed 290 times):

eL6GE8p.png

Last edited on Mon Nov 6th, 2017 01:35 am by Russ Huber

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 Posted: Mon Nov 6th, 2017 02:11 am
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Duane Burright
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Nice find Dan!

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 Posted: Mon Nov 6th, 2017 07:21 am
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Dan Foley
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Russ Huber wrote: It APPEARS your brass clip that holds the bead chain and pulls the tongue to rotate the switch is jammed in the hole? :wondering:
I don't think it would hold onto a chain at this point, it's kind of mangled.  Plus the internals of the switch are coated in nasty, hardened grease residue.  Earlier on I tried hooking it up to my fan's motor, but the motor did absolutely nothing.  For now I just have the toggle switch wired up until I can revive the levolier.



Duane Burright wrote:Nice find Dan!

Thanks Duane!  I'm glad I brought this thing home.  Although I have to say it has been the most disgusting fan I've ever cleaned up.  Cleaning the cage was by far the worst part.

Last edited on Mon Nov 6th, 2017 07:24 am by Dan Foley

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 Posted: Mon Nov 6th, 2017 01:50 pm
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Russ Huber
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Dan Foley wrote: Russ Huber wrote: It APPEARS your brass clip that holds the bead chain and pulls the tongue to rotate the switch is jammed in the hole? :wondering:
I don't think it would hold onto a chain at this point, it's kind of mangled.  Plus the internals of the switch are coated in nasty, hardened grease residue.  Earlier on I tried hooking it up to my fan's motor, but the motor did absolutely nothing.  For now I just have the toggle switch wired up until I can revive the levolier.



Dan, FWIW....you need to find another single pull(on-off) levolier(which are much more abundant out there) of equal size to rob Peter to pay Paul. You need the brass bead chain retaining clip and the pull nipple.  Ebay is loaded with them. You just need to find one on ebay or wherever where the seller isn't looking for a pot of gold for it.


WD-40 will dissolve tar splatter off of your car finish.  Drown the inside of that switch with it.  It won't damage it. Let it soak.

Attached Image (viewed 238 times):

levolier.png

Last edited on Mon Nov 6th, 2017 01:51 pm by Russ Huber

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 Posted: Mon Nov 6th, 2017 01:56 pm
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Russ Huber
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Whatever you do don't throw the switch in the circular file out of frustration.  Mail it to me if it comes to that.  I'll even cover the postage. :D

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 Posted: Mon Nov 6th, 2017 02:08 pm
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Dan Foley
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Thanks for the info, Russ! I'll pick up another levolier from eBay for the parts. I'd rather have the original switch on there, so fixing it up is definitely worth it for me.

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 Posted: Mon Nov 6th, 2017 03:18 pm
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Russ Huber
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Dan Foley wrote: Thanks for the info, Russ! I'll pick up another levolier from eBay for the parts. I'd rather have the original switch on there, so fixing it up is definitely worth it for me.
Dan, I am out of town maybe until the end of the week? If your patient when I get back home I will check my levolier stash.  There can be differences with the on-off levolier switches(brass bead retaining clip) that may not work on your larger multi circuit switch. Plus, some of those sellers on ebay buy those switches for pennies on the dollar and auction them buy it now for 16+ times what they paid for them.


Don't be victimized by wanna be capitalists. :D 


Attached Image (viewed 230 times):

s-l500.jpg

Last edited on Mon Nov 6th, 2017 03:18 pm by Russ Huber

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 Posted: Mon Nov 6th, 2017 03:48 pm
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Dan Foley
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Sure thing, I don't mind waiting. Thanks for the assistance!

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 Posted: Mon Nov 6th, 2017 05:04 pm
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Andrew Block
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The 1010 is the model that interchanges the most with the 450's. The regular multispeed ones seem to use a different connector, plus the stem is longer and wider on the 450. The retaining nut simply won't fit.

According to collectors, there were two different model 450's used in the Emerson circulators, a larger diameter and a smaller one. They shrunk the switch size down (supposedly) to accommodate the sardine can capacitor in the bullet. The larger ones will work with the split phase motors and the smaller diameter ones with the capacitor motors. They are apparently not interchangeable as they are internally jumpered differently.

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 Posted: Mon Nov 6th, 2017 09:00 pm
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David Allen
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Dan Foley wrote: Turns out the levolier switch doesn't want to operate properly, so I wired the motor to a 3PDT switch for now.  A big thanks to both Andrew B. and David A. for answering a few questions I had in regards to the wiring!  



Here's a quick and dirty diagram I made for my own switch setup, the dotted lines are where I have certain terminals bridged:





Glad to be of help. This is a very good looking fan, by the way!  Amazing how well the grease preserved the finish of the motor. It looks amazing once you wipe off the grease!

It's great that other enthusiasts are able to make parts for the Levolier switches. I always like keeping a restored machine as original as possible. The 3PDT switch is a good option because you don't have to re-drill or otherwise modify the fan casing. When you get a good Levolier, it's just a matter of going back to stock with it and no harm done. This is one reason I was delighted to be able to make the High-Low/Variable-Off push and turn control for Andrew's fan. It fit in the original hole and does all it does through one shaft.


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 Posted: Mon Nov 6th, 2017 09:32 pm
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Andrew Block
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David AllenIt's great that other enthusiasts are able to make parts for the Levolier switches. I always like keeping a restored machine as original as possible. The 3PDT switch is a good option because you don't have to re-drill or otherwise modify the fan casing. When you get a good Levolier, it's just a matter of going back to stock with it and no harm done. This is one reason I was delighted to be able to make the High-Low/Variable-Off push and turn control for Andrew's fan. It fit in the original hole and does all it does through one shaft
I agree trying to keep the fans original. The Vorty has a nice low speed on it but they do seem to respond well to a Variac if that is still too high.

I had mine running last night, amazing such a large fan only pulls .7 amps on low.

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 Posted: Tue Nov 7th, 2017 12:04 am
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Dan Foley
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Almost done, just have to run the line wire through the pole.  I received a badge in the mail from Wes V. and popped that onto the cage this afternoon.  Here's a quick cell phone picture, I plan to set up my tripod and DSLR tomorrow for some better shots:




It purrs like a kitten on low speed, I love how those giant Vorty blades sound.  High speed is amazing too, albeit a little bit much for a smaller space.  

Last edited on Tue Nov 7th, 2017 12:05 am by Dan Foley

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 Posted: Tue Nov 7th, 2017 12:31 am
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David Allen
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That looks great! 

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 Posted: Tue Nov 7th, 2017 02:34 am
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Russ Huber
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Dan Foley wrote:
It purrs like a kitten on low speed, I love how those giant Vorty blades sound. 

You got it.  The low decibel drone that blade makes on low speed was meant to sooth the savage beast. :D


Pssssssst........120 VAC passing through the 220 VAC windings of the dual voltage motor....low speed.

Attached Image (viewed 156 times):

ge.jpg

Last edited on Tue Nov 7th, 2017 02:34 am by Russ Huber

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 Posted: Tue Nov 7th, 2017 03:56 am
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Dan Foley
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That's what I figured when I saw the 115/230V rating on the motor tag.  I also dropped the capacitor value a bit more, as I had an extra 6uf/450VAC.  Current draw on low sits right around .78A and roughly 1.6A on high.


Also the startup sound is amazing when those blades pick up speed, especially when standing right behind the fan.

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 Posted: Tue Nov 7th, 2017 04:07 am
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Dan Foley
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David Allen wrote: That looks great! 

Thanks David!  I'm glad I decided to snag this one and fix it up.  The previous owner said his mother-in-law was going to get rid of it (big surprise).  At least he thought it was worth saving, and he even made some cash in the process.

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 Posted: Fri Nov 10th, 2017 01:27 am
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Dan Foley
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Here are a few pictures, I added an inline plug and receptacle near the motor to try and mimic the original design:






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