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1923 GE AOU - Paint Code  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Sat Jan 13th, 2018 03:59 am
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Bryan Fuller
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Ready to purchase paint for my project does anyone have the correct paint number needed for my 1923 GE AOU fan. Confused Pullman Green, Charleston Green. I want to get the original paint code that will be dispersed via an HVLP. Also, what primer and clear coat has folks used. Thanks.

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 Posted: Sun Jan 14th, 2018 12:05 am
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Alec Burns
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I've seen some members recommend Charleston Green to others. I don't know much about HLVP or Clear Coating. I personally use Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy or Lacquer. Surface prep is key. I usually start with one very light coat, wait 15 minutes, apply a medium coat second, wait 15 minutes, then a heavier coat, ensuring a good coverage and bond. It's important to leave the paint alone when you're finished. Appliance Epoxy takes a good week to cure. I'm currently painting a 1924 GE in Black Lacquer, and find that it is surprisingly temperamental. It states it cures in a few days, but after a week with the painted motor housing resting on some bubble wrap it left some ndesirable impressions. So be careful.

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 Posted: Sun Jan 14th, 2018 01:13 am
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Bryan Fuller
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Awesome. I too have had success using a rattle can on many projects, but the one thing that stands out to me is the surface hardness. Using a HVLP gun the finished product is much harder. I have three guns Primer, Basecoat, and Clearcoat. Anybody have any thoughts on original paint color used? Thank you.

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 Posted: Sun Jan 14th, 2018 01:39 am
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Chris A. Campbell
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Bryan Fuller wrote: Ready to purchase paint for my project does anyone have the correct paint number needed for my 1923 GE AOU fan. Confused Pullman Green, Charleston Green. I want to get the original paint code that will be dispersed via an HVLP. Also, what primer and clear coat has folks used. Thanks.


HVLP is the way to go. I have used Evercoat, Deltron 3000, and SPI Universal clear. Liking SPI the best.

It is a hard green to match up. English color did a good job. The formula is based off a military single stage without the toners so it lays down as a unhardened base followed by activated clear. Thick so reduce until it flows well. I may go about 2:1 or 2:1.5 to start vs 4:1 regular reducer if you choose to use to use this formula.


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Last edited on Sun Jan 14th, 2018 03:36 am by Chris A. Campbell

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 Posted: Sun Jan 14th, 2018 01:42 am
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Chris A. Campbell
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Custom match

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Last edited on Sun Jan 14th, 2018 01:43 am by Chris A. Campbell

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 Posted: Sun Jan 14th, 2018 01:54 am
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Chris A. Campbell
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Formula:

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 Posted: Sun Jan 14th, 2018 01:57 am
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Chris A. Campbell
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