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newbie with a frigid 16"  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Mon Jan 22nd, 2018 05:37 pm
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Mike Bridgins
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So 2 years ago i bought this at an estate Auction. cleaned it up and i fell in love with it. sits on my dresser and is on every night.
 i noticed oil on the top of it and figured it would be going out soon. Most of the time when you see that on other things it means its a seal motor/bearing and something is wore out and about to give out. the oscillating part never worked.
I know nothing about fans, and i'm horrible at electric work, mechanical i have no issues with. so i want to tackle a repair or if tow bad of a repair send it off to someone who has the know how.

the fan currently just howells a like a dying dog when the blades spin and then the blades finally stop moving
if they ever start. oil shows up on the base.

looking for guidance   

found this site last night while doing some searches.

i guess first step would be to take it apart and see what type motor is has?

not sure why the first photo is turned side ways, so forgive me on that











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 Posted: Tue Jan 23rd, 2018 04:30 am
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Levi Mevis
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Hello and welcome, first of all with fan motors yes they have "seals" but not like in car motors, fractional horsepower motors as they are known as are not like car motors, when you see oil spots on the fan that is actually from normal operation because these kinds of motors do what's called "oil slinging" which is part of the lubrication process because especially on fans from 100 years ago the oil cups that held the oil had what was called a return resevoir in which the oil taken from the main oil resevoir in the back of the fan travels along the motor shaft to keep the front and rear bearings lubricated the oil would then make its way up to the fan blade assembly and it would get "slung" into the front return resevoir which would then be emptied out during your oil change which that oil would sometimes drip onto the fan's body and cause a greasy oily buildup. 
Unless the fan is pulling more than the rated amps listed on the fan's motor tag (usually somewhere around .7 amps) then probably all you need to do is take the fan apart disassemble the motor, clean the bearings and then re-oil the bearings with a good 20 wt. oil like 3-in-1 in the blue can or Zoom! Spout Turbine Oil. As for the oscillator not working, you need to disassemble the gearbox clean out the old grease and put new grease in, any kind of light weight grease like wheel-bearing grease or Lucas Red n' Tacky would work, and your fan should be fine again.

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 Posted: Tue Jan 23rd, 2018 03:57 pm
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Mike Bridgins
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thanks for the advise, excited to get started this weekend on it

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 Posted: Tue Jan 23rd, 2018 08:11 pm
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Tom Zapf
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what you have is a 70s Frigid probably made by Tatung and relicensed under the Frigid Brand. I have one that someone gave me with a broken neck. I transferred the motor head on to a Tatung base, it is very weird to have what looks like a plastic fan with a metal motor cover and base. NOW... the fan you have might have a big funky white cord and huge plug, yes? Thats what mine had and the Grille on yours is unusual and was for use in Hospitals as a Hospital Specific Model. mine had a 3 wire huge plug

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 Posted: Wed Jan 24th, 2018 02:48 am
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Mike Bridgins
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thanks, well I couldn't wait until the weekend. so I tore into it tonight. I'm have trouble getting the screw out for the oscillation. it was stripped from the prior owner but it is also really tight. even if I hold the metal spinner blow the white plastic, then the screws strips more. the plastic won't slide through the hole on the metal cover so I came here for advise before I just decide to break something





































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 Posted: Wed Jan 24th, 2018 04:32 am
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Levi Mevis
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You can't get that screw loose on that oscillator knob because you're turning it the wrong  way, you're actually tightening it not loosening it, those screws on those oscillator knobs on these fans are right hand thread, meaning that you need to do a righty loosey  lefty tighty which is the opposite of which a screw normally threads which is lefty loosey  righty tighty. Try that and see if the screw comes out that way.

Last edited on Wed Jan 24th, 2018 04:33 am by Levi Mevis

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 Posted: Wed Jan 24th, 2018 04:35 pm
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Tom Zapf
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i was going to say the same thing i think it is reverse threaded ....

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 Posted: Wed Jan 24th, 2018 04:52 pm
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Lane Shirey
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When you get it apart further, check that the oil is not coming from the capacitor. If it is, it needs replaced, and can possibly be causing the problems, also the oil can have carcinogenic compounds in it, so be careful not to handle it. Being a later fan, it's unlikely it has a wet capacitor, but I guess it's possible. 

If the capacitor is dry, then it's also possible the prior owner pointed the oil can toward the hole in the housing and squirted, with little actually going into the oil port that leads to the bearing. They just made a big oily, sloppy mess. 


Best of success with your project! 

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 Posted: Wed Jan 24th, 2018 05:36 pm
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Mike Bridgins
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thanks guys, i had a brain fart. after i hit send i sat back and was like i bet that is reverse thread..and bam after holding the shaft it poped and then unscrewed. so that hurdle as been jumped!



here are some more pics and a video of it running..seems loud I'm sure hard to tell from video



when i turned it on(didn't record me doing that sorry) low it just hummed, turn the shaft by hand and it took off. then then turned the switch to higher speeds no problem. turned off to see if low speed would do the same thing and it fired right up



so i think the next step is to hit it with air and get all the dust off the motor.



what else should i do while i have this apart?










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 Posted: Wed Jan 24th, 2018 08:06 pm
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Levi Mevis
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First I would check your motor run capacitor and make sure it's functioning properly as a bad motor run cap can cause the motor to not start up on its own like what you're experiencing, then I would see if your motor can come apart and clean the motor's bearings and then oil it and then disassemble the oscillator gearbox and clean and put new grease in the gearbox, and that fan should be good to go.

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 Posted: Wed Jan 24th, 2018 08:40 pm
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Mike Bridgins
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lewis, thanks for the advise, but this is about the part where my knowledge runs out.

how do i test the cap, I know what it is, and i have a multimeter lol but not sure what i'm really testing for

as far as taking the motor apart you mean take apart the silver case apart? am i going to get springs flying everywhere? lol
and just a thought where should i look for numbers on the motor to figure out what i got(thinking like a mechanic again lol)


thanks in advance

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 Posted: Wed Jan 24th, 2018 10:29 pm
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Levi Mevis
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By the way its Levi, not Lewis. 
Anyways to test your capacitor you want to set your multimeter to the Ohms Setting and then measure the capacitor's ESR Measurement (which is in ohms) if the capacitor is still good the resistance reading for your fan's capacitor should read between 3.0-3.5 ohms if its bad it will read less than that or open.
As for taking the motor apart, yes the whole silver colored assembly that the shaft comes out of is the motor and there should be about 2-4 screws holding it together and the fan motor should just split apart exposing the bearings so you can give them a good soak in a good degreaser. Then there should be holes on the top of the bearing housings for you to drip new oil into the bearings after you've cleaned them. the fan's gearbox is pretty self explanatory its the part that the oscillator knob that you had a hard time getting off was attached to, on top of it there's about 2 or 3 screws holding the cover on and that should just pop right off once you get the screws off and then you can use q-tips and toothpicks to clean out the old grease and then use a degreaser to get the rest of the gearbox cleaned out and then repack it with new grease. 

Hope this helps.


Last edited on Wed Jan 24th, 2018 10:30 pm by Levi Mevis

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 Posted: Thu Jan 25th, 2018 04:37 pm
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Mike Bridgins
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yes levi, sorry ment no disrespect.

i will get out the multimeter and see what i get.

i took some pictures for myself for reference on how things are so i know how to re-install.

i removed the grey wiring holder and the green wire this morning, after i took this pic. the green wire, i assume ground. its attached to what appears to be a weight, which just kind fell off after removing the screw. at that point the cap was much easier to see the leads
so yes i'll hooks the ground back up and test the cap tonight

i'll get it all cleaned up, test the cap and report back

thanks

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 Posted: Thu Jan 25th, 2018 11:27 pm
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Levi Mevis
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No Problem and yes the green wire is a ground wire, its a 3-wire headwire with the addition of a ground wire (not sure why Mitsubishi did that but they did, and yes this fan is actually made by Mitsubishi not Tatung because the original Capacitor in there has the Mitsubishi marking on it and Mitsubishi made all their own stuff.) That weight that the ground wire was attached to and was holding into place was more than likely to make sure the fan had a proper counter-balance compared to the motor especially when the housing is made of aluminum, which is a light weight metal to begin with.

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 Posted: Fri Jan 26th, 2018 01:57 am
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Mike Bridgins
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Background noise is my compressor pumping up


Meaning Turing it on for first time

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 Posted: Fri Jan 26th, 2018 12:44 pm
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John McComas
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I would replace that capacitor.  It is rated 4.8 ufd or mfd at 200 VAC. 
I would use a 300 VAC rated cap. at 4.5 ufd.
Sounds like the cap is bad because motor is not starting on its own, and may be the reason the oil and grease
are running out because the motor has gotten so hot.
I know the cap in your fan is round, but you may have better luck finding one like this one. See if you think
you can mount this rectangle one inside your motor case...
Happy Fanning!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CBB61-2-Wire-4-5uF-450VAC-Ceiling-Fan-Motor-Start-Running-Capacitor/112636677985?hash=item1a39ab4f61:g:rNMAAOSwOA1aBdRp

2 wire 4.5uf @450vac capacitor. Measures 1 1/2 x 7/8" x 1 1/4".

 


Last edited on Fri Jan 26th, 2018 12:45 pm by John McComas

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 Posted: Fri Jan 26th, 2018 03:44 pm
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Mike Bridgins
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John, i would agree with you, although one thing still puzzles me, once you get it going then after a few mins it starts making horrible noise like bearings are out of oil or something and eventually the blades stops. i assuming that cap is just a start cap and not needed after starting
but again that is my uneducated guess

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 Posted: Fri Jan 26th, 2018 07:26 pm
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Levi Mevis
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Like John said, its due to the grease and oil being dried up after the motor has overheated several times due to the bad capacitor. 

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 Posted: Sat Jan 27th, 2018 12:55 pm
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John McComas
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Mike Bridgins wrote: John, i would agree with you, although one thing still puzzles me, once you get it going then after a few mins it starts making horrible noise like bearings are out of oil or something and eventually the blades stops. i assuming that cap is just a start cap and not needed after starting
but again that is my uneducated guess

That motor is called a PSC Permanent Split Capacitor motor.  It is always "In the Circuit"
It needs to be replaced.

Hopefully, your bearings are NOT worn, or "wallered out"  I would try to get some oil into the bearings,
Wiggle the rotor shaft around to see if the bearings have gotten sloppy.  If bearings still feel "tight"
then get that capacitor replaced. 
If the bearings are shot,  you might want to scrap this fan, or get someone with some machining experience
to help you replace bearings...
Happy Fanning!

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 Posted: Sat Feb 3rd, 2018 03:01 am
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Levi Mevis
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He sent me the fan to work on it for him, and I managed to get it going, the capacitor was fine, it just needed a good oiling in the bearings (the bearings were bone dry as well as the oil wicks) and after I finished oiling it I plugged it in and turned it on and the fan was working properly again, I even got his oscillator mechanism working smoothly again.It was a pretty simple repair. 

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 Posted: Wed Feb 21st, 2018 03:17 pm
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Mike Bridgins
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got the fan back from Levi, unfortunitly the fan blades were broke in shipment, levi is filling a claim with UPS today

does anyone know where or if i can get replacement blades?

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