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Emerson 6250H  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Tue Oct 2nd, 2018 03:30 pm
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Tom Gilreath
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I have come across a fan locally that may be a good candidate to restore for my wife.  It is an Emerson 6250H in working order.  The lady is asking $110 for it.  It looks like a good cleaning, blade polishing, and a coat of paint would make it a really sharp fan.
Does anyone know much about these?  I see they are likely from 1949.  Are they worth fooling around with?

Thanks, again.  You people have been really helpful so far!

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 Posted: Tue Oct 2nd, 2018 06:12 pm
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Craig Robbins
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6250 is a good fan but that is way too much $ if it needs all that work IMO. 

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 Posted: Tue Oct 2nd, 2018 06:48 pm
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Tom Gilreath
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Thanks.  I'll keep that in mind.

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 Posted: Tue Oct 2nd, 2018 07:00 pm
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Tom Gilreath
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Here are some pictures.  It looks like it is in pretty decent shape.  The cleaning, painting, and polishing is something I want to do to pretty it up before giving to my wife as a gift.




Attached Image (viewed 756 times):

6250H1.jpg

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 Posted: Tue Oct 2nd, 2018 08:24 pm
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Craig Robbins
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You might consider saving the original paint. The motor, base and cage will clean up with Meguiars cleaner wax. The blade, badge and ID tag will clean up nicely with Mothers mag wheel polish. It's only original once. 

Last edited on Tue Oct 2nd, 2018 08:26 pm by Craig Robbins

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 Posted: Wed Oct 3rd, 2018 01:28 pm
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Tom Gilreath
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Thanks, Craig.  I bought the fan...my first vintage fan!  It runs quietly and smoothly and oscillates like a champ.  Moves a lot of air for a small fan and, man, is it heavy!  I figured it would have some weight to it, but I wasn't expecting it to feel like a lead bar.  I like that, though.
As far as keeping it original...well, it is for my wife and I think she would really like it in a pale blue or sea foam kind of color.  The fan is actually in really good shape, paint and all.  Kind of a shame, but I know what she likes.  If it were an earlier or more rare fan, I would probably just give it a good clean and leave it alone.

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 Posted: Thu Oct 4th, 2018 01:23 pm
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Tom Gilreath
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With regard to the "bronze" blades on this 6250H, how do I polish them without removing the bronze color?  They have some green corrosion on them.  I'm thinking about getting them powder coated with gold chrome which would give a brassy look.
Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks.

Tom

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 Posted: Sat Oct 6th, 2018 10:44 pm
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Allen Bennett
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Like you, I bought an original 6250-H from an elderly couple in Iowa and wanted to keep it as original as possible. I cleaned and polished the paint and badge, replaced the head wire and line cord and then spent a lot of time on the blades.  I sanded them progressively down to 3000G and then machine polished them.  I chose not to apply lacquer, preferring to add only a coat of wax.





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 Posted: Mon Oct 8th, 2018 01:19 pm
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Tom Gilreath
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Nice Golden Jubilee, Alex!  Well, done!
Can someone tell me if the black coating on the rotor is there for a reason or if it is just a build-up of oil and gunk from over the years?  I assume I am calling the part the correct name.  I'm referring to the cylinder on the rotor shaft.

I hope I can get all the washer/spacers back in the right places.  This being my first fan, I didn't expect there to be so many of them and neglected to take enough pictures.  If someone has suggestions, that would be helpful!

Thanks.

Tom

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 Posted: Mon Oct 8th, 2018 02:41 pm
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Tom Gilreath
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Also, how do I get the old wicks out of this fan?  Is there some way to push them out?

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 Posted: Tue Oct 9th, 2018 12:27 am
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Allen Bennett
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The black crud on the outside of the rotor can be cleaned off   I used mineral spirits and fine sandpaper.   The wicks should be replaced.  On the bottom are two brass plugs with screwdriver slots.  Soak with penetrate overnight if they won’t easily unscrew.  Once removed, make a note of how deep the wicks were seated before removing them.  Push the old wicks to the center and remove through the shaft openings.  Push out the upper wicks the same way.   You’ll need new wicking felt (1/4” diameter, if I remember) which is readily available on eBay or Amazon.  Cut the four wicks to length and install the upper ones first by pushing them in from the bottom where the brass plugs were removed.  You may need to guide them a little to get them started in the upper oiling tubes.  Install the bottom wicks.  After you’ve installed the rotor/shaft, turn the motor so the bottom wicks are facing up and fill with 3-in-1 brand motor oil (blue top bottle).  Let them soak overnight and top off the next morning.  Install the brass plugs, invert the motor, and repeat the oiling procedure on the upper wicks.

Just my two cents.

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 Posted: Tue Oct 9th, 2018 02:42 am
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Tom Gilreath
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Thanks, Allen!  I assume the upper wicks go in the brass tube on the top part of the motor housing.  Should there be caps for the tubes that hold the upper wick?  If there are, I don't have any.
Tom

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 Posted: Tue Oct 9th, 2018 02:58 am
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Allen Bennett
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No caps on upper oil tubes and as I recall, the wicks have a diameter that is larger than the tips of the tubes, so that’s why the wicks go in from underneath as I described above.  For sure the case on the front one. 

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 Posted: Tue Oct 9th, 2018 01:31 pm
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Bill Hoehn
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Tom, 
The 6250's have an interesting history.
Started in 1935 with the patented overlapping blades in aluminum.
1936---a chrome version.
1937---6250 AA---Adj. floor stand.
1939---now 6250 B
1940---6250 D---50th Anniversary---Golden Jubilee---polished Bronze blade & Bronze Lacquer.
1941---6250 AF---Adj floor stand.
1942 to 1945 shortage aluminum with WW II. Some steel blades.
1947---new plant.
1949---6250 D becomes 6250 F---6250 G is Ivory---6250 AF becomes 6250 AJ.
1951---6250 F        "        6250 H with Bronze Baked Enamel.
            6250 G       "        6250 L  in Ivory.
           6250 AJ       "        6250 AK.  
1953---6250 H        "        6250 K.
1955---New Model 6250 M---smaller motor---two through bolts---larger nameplate---transparent decal on top front of motor.
The missing years showed no changes from the previous year.

Bill

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 Posted: Tue Oct 9th, 2018 03:26 pm
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Tom Gilreath
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Cool!  Thanks, Bill!  Interesting info to have.  Is there someway to determine the year on an Emerson fan.  I seem to recall I read something about taking a number from somewhere on the fan and adding 20 or 30 to it for the year.  Is that correct?

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 Posted: Tue Oct 9th, 2018 08:49 pm
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Bill Hoehn
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Tom,
The small number (not the nameplate number) on some Emerson fans is used by some people to date their fans by adding 20 years to the number.  It works for some of the fans (not all) most of the time, but not always.Your 6250 H was only made in 1951 & 1952.
Also the final model 6150 M had a unique larger cage emblem.

Bill

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 Posted: Fri Oct 12th, 2018 04:37 pm
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Tom Gilreath
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Many thanks!  I'm getting ready to strip the old finish off this weekend.  I'm gonna use Klean Strip, I guess, and sand what that doesn't remove.  Once it's cleaned, I plan to paint (the powder coating fell through) it one of my wife's favorite colors which will also blend in while being distinctive to the rest of the colors in our house.  I'm going for a deep candy purple auto paint (don't shoot me, you keep-it-original folks!) which should really look sharp with the highly polished blades.
Hopefully, I can get everything back together in good working order.  BTW, what insulating varnish do you recommend for the windings?  I assume I should apply that before putting on the new cloth electrical tape wraps, yes?

You guys have really been a great help, so far.  Thanks!  

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 Posted: Fri Oct 12th, 2018 04:49 pm
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Allen Bennett
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Regarding paint stripping.  Be sure to get one with methylene chloride; those without it are too weak to strip some finishes. Sherwin Williams sells one for sure. 

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 Posted: Fri Oct 12th, 2018 04:56 pm
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Tom Gilreath
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Thanks, Allen!
Bill, I didn't realize you were in Chesterfield.  I'm in the Ballwin/Manchester area.

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 Posted: Wed Oct 17th, 2018 08:59 pm
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Tom Gilreath
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Does anyone know what size brass washers I will need for the rotor shaft where it will butt up against the front and rear bearings?
Thanks.

Tom Gilreath

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 Posted: Sun Nov 4th, 2018 09:15 pm
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Tom Gilreath
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I have another problem with this fan.  As I try to reassemble it, the front cover (the steel part right behind the cage that covers the rotor and stator) is wanting to go on funny.  It looks like it doesn't want to fit back on the fan.  Seems a little offset from the body of the fan and the rotor doesn't turn.  Just enough of a bad angle to pinch it, I guess.  Anyone have any idea about how to resolve this problem?  Really weird and I can't figure out what happened.
Thanks, again, folks!

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 Posted: Sun Nov 4th, 2018 09:31 pm
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Ryan Blazei
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If you painted it, you Igor have got paint in where the cover fits inside the casing. Sand it off if there is. You make also have the stator in not all the way binding the rotor. Make sure everything is tight.

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 Posted: Sun Nov 4th, 2018 10:45 pm
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Tom Gilreath
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I wish that the paint was the problem.  Unfortunately, I did tape it up to prevent paint from getting around the lip of the front cover and the center body piece.  The stator slides in nicely and goes all the way back.  I can slide the cover over the studs and the shaft and everything rotates well, but if I try to get the cover back into the center housing (or whatever it is called), the rotor no longer turns.  Something is off center, but I have no idea how it got that way or how to fix it.

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 Posted: Sun Nov 4th, 2018 11:55 pm
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Ryan Blazei
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Make sure the oil port is facing up, and the flathead screw is facing down on the cover, other than that I’m not sure. If these had self aligning bearings, they can move. Tapping the shaft with a soft screwdriver handle in many places will align them. 

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 Posted: Mon Nov 5th, 2018 02:43 am
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Tom Gilreath
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Thanks.
The oil port is up and the notch for the flathead screw is at 6 o'clock. Could the body have gotten out of round slightly after being taken apart?
Do you know if the 6250H has self-aligning bearings? I'll try that and see if it helps?
Also, what is the best way to measure the play in the shaft? Do I need to put it all back together, check it, take it apart again, and add or remove thrust washers?

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 Posted: Mon Nov 5th, 2018 07:47 pm
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NM Whitney Jr.
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I've been wrestling a 6250 for the last week or so... I'm here to share what little I know.

The washers that go on the rotor shaft were a mix on my fan... one metal washer, fiber washer, brass washer (that's curved, not flat) and then another fiber washer (starting at the center part of the rotor). Once installed and the front cover bolted on, the shaft will move in and out about 1/16th of an inch. If you have too many washers the rotor won't turn once you have the front cover bolted on.

The front cover on mine won't seat completely until you tighten all 4 bolts down. The shaft tends to bind until the cover is fully tightened. I tighten them in a star pattern (like lugnuts) and only slightly tighten each bolt each time.

These 6250's do not have self aligning bearings, they are pressed into the front/rear housings.

The cover bolts will scrape off and mar your new paint job as you tighten them. I use a fiber washer under each bolt to eliminate some of that.

Most importantly... post pics!

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 Posted: Thu Nov 8th, 2018 07:32 pm
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Tom Gilreath
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Thank you, sir. That sounds like a good idea. I'll give that a try, as soon as my fiber washers come in. I hadn't put any washers on the shaft yet and was just test fitting.

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 Posted: Sat Nov 10th, 2018 08:52 pm
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Tom Gilreath
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NM Whitney, thank you!! That worked perfectly! The rotor is rotating like silk! I am relieved!

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 Posted: Mon Nov 12th, 2018 05:45 pm
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Tom Gilreath
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This is the completed fan.  It isn't perfect and I didn't get the mirror finish to the blades I wanted, but my wife was thrilled.  That's what is important, anyway.  My thanks to everyone who provided me with good advice for restoring this fan!  On to the next one, right?








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 Posted: Mon Nov 12th, 2018 07:49 pm
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George Durbin
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Yup!

Get sweetie involved and 


approving, It will mean many fans 


in the tee pee in your future!


Geo...

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 Posted: Tue Nov 13th, 2018 11:02 am
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Lane Shirey
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Your blades likely look like that because while Emerson used bronze blades, they also applied a bronze tinted clear coating over the polished blades. When you polish them, you must strip that finish off or you will get the bright/dull appearance that you have.  Of course the newly shined blade without the tinted coating will not look as “bronze” as it did from the factory.   

Looks nice and welcome to the forum! 

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 Posted: Fri Nov 16th, 2018 03:31 pm
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Tom Gilreath
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Lane, I stripped off all the coating from the blades. They are bare metal now. Seems like I would have to remove the blades to really polish them most effectively.

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 Posted: Sat Nov 17th, 2018 12:27 am
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Lane Shirey
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Tom Gilreath wrote: Lane, I stripped off all the coating from the blades. They are bare metal now. Seems like I would have to remove the blades to really polish them most effectively.Yes, that works best. 

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