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| Fresh’nd-Aire Model 20 | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Sat Oct 13th, 2018 01:54 am |
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1st Post |
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Zackri Higgins Guest 
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I got this 20” Fresh’nd Aire fan today and discovered that someone has retrofitted a different motor into it. They did a pretty good job, but this motor has an awful rattling sound to it. What would be the odds of finding and original GE motor and choke coil (the switch is present thankfully)? Do any of the other sizes use the same motor? Also, how would much motor cost? I’m hoping it’ll be less than $50. I think I know where there is a beat up 17” locally (not sure if they still have it or not). Would that use the same motor? If so, I might go see if they still have it and make them an offer on it (I didn’t see a price on it when I saw it).
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| Posted: Sat Oct 13th, 2018 02:16 am |
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2nd Post |
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Lucas Beshara AFCA Member 
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Most of the freshy motors are interchangeable. Redmond and GE will swap no problem. Housing sizes are the same for the 14-20” fans. I’ve got a toasty one that needs a rewind. It’s one of the hardest motors to rewind on the planet though. I’d make sure that speed control is good before hooking up a good motor to it.
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| Posted: Sat Oct 13th, 2018 02:23 am |
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3rd Post |
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Zackri Higgins Guest
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Thanks for the info Lucas! Definitely gotta get back over there and see it they still have that 17” Freshy.
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| Posted: Sat Oct 13th, 2018 06:07 pm |
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4th Post |
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Zackri Higgins Guest
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Good news! Picked up that Freshy I was talking about for $6! It’s actually a 20” too. Don’t know why I was thinking it was a 17”. Will post pics later! Last edited on Sat Oct 13th, 2018 06:07 pm by Zackri Higgins |
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| Posted: Sat Oct 13th, 2018 09:40 pm |
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5th Post |
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Zackri Higgins Guest
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How do you replace the oil wick In the GE Freshy motor?
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| Posted: Sat Oct 13th, 2018 10:25 pm |
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6th Post |
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Russ Huber AFCA Member 
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Zackri Higgins wrote: How do you replace the oil wick In the GE Freshy motor? There is a press fit cap if memory serves me right you pop off. You have dig out the old felt wadding, clean out the reservoir, and repack it new.
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| Posted: Sat Oct 13th, 2018 10:26 pm |
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7th Post |
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Zackri Higgins Guest
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Thank you Russ!
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| Posted: Sat Oct 13th, 2018 10:41 pm |
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8th Post |
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Zackri Higgins Guest
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Is this the cap? If so, how do you get it off? Attached Image (viewed 150 times):
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| Posted: Sun Oct 14th, 2018 02:18 am |
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9th Post |
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Zackri Higgins Guest
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It appears that is indeed the cap I need to remove. Anyone on here removed one before? If so, how’d you do it? This motor was DISGUSTING, so I definitely want to change the felt.
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| Posted: Sun Oct 14th, 2018 02:51 am |
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10th Post |
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Zackri Higgins Guest
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Also, what should the ohm readings on the stator be? It seems to kind of fluctuate in the 4.0/3.5 area. Is that normal? I’m thinking it’s not, but I don’t know. Edit: Hmm..... now it’s reading 5.3. Edit: Now it’s 12 ohms! I think the windings may be shot. Edit: Would there be any harm in plugging it into a GFI outlet and just seeing what happens? Last edited on Sun Oct 14th, 2018 05:01 am by Zackri Higgins |
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| Posted: Sun Oct 14th, 2018 04:33 pm |
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11th Post |
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Zackri Higgins Guest
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Here’s a pic of the stator. How bad does it look? Attached Image (viewed 92 times):
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| Posted: Sun Oct 14th, 2018 06:31 pm |
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12th Post |
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Zackri Higgins Guest
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Never mind. When I pulled the slightly damage shaft out, it destroyed the front bearing. The bearing has deep scratches in it and the shaft is extremely stiff when it’s installed now. Spun great before I disassembled it. Crying shame. Last edited on Sun Oct 14th, 2018 06:32 pm by Zackri Higgins |
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| Posted: Sun Oct 14th, 2018 06:48 pm |
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13th Post |
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Russ Huber AFCA Member
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Your windings appear cooked unless that is a dark insulating varnish. Attached Image (viewed 75 times): Last edited on Sun Oct 14th, 2018 06:49 pm by Russ Huber |
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| Posted: Sun Oct 14th, 2018 06:54 pm |
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14th Post |
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Zackri Higgins Guest
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Thanks for the info Russ. I didn’t think they looked too good. What would a good motor run me? I might consider buying one if it’s pretty cheap.
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| Posted: Sun Oct 14th, 2018 06:55 pm |
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15th Post |
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Russ Huber AFCA Member
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Zackri Higgins wrote: Never mind. When I pulled the slightly damage shaft out, it destroyed the front bearing. The bearing has deep scratches in it and the shaft is extremely stiff when it’s installed now. Spun great before I disassembled it. Crying shame. If the blade mounting end of a shaft has grime build up or burrs you take a fine wire wheel or fine wet dry to it first before removing it. The scratches in bearing are nothing to worry about if the windings are good. this is a low budget motor, not a 92 Lundell. 
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| Posted: Sun Oct 14th, 2018 06:57 pm |
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16th Post |
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Zackri Higgins Guest
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When I put the shaft back it seemed really stiff, but maybe I didn’t have something lined up correctly. I’ll check it again.
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| Posted: Sun Oct 14th, 2018 06:57 pm |
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17th Post |
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Russ Huber AFCA Member
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Zackri Higgins wrote: Thanks for the info Russ. I didn’t think they looked too good. What would a good motor run me? I might consider buying one if it’s pretty cheap. The one you have may be fine if the windings have healthy copper with dark insulating varnish.
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| Posted: Sun Oct 14th, 2018 07:00 pm |
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18th Post |
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Zackri Higgins Guest
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If I can get the shaft spinning freely again, I’ll try and plug it in and see what happens. Hopefully it doesn’t go up in smoke
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| Posted: Sun Oct 14th, 2018 07:43 pm |
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19th Post |
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Zackri Higgins Guest
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Got the shaft spinning freely again and the motor actually works! It buzzes really bad though because the strings tied around the windings fell apart. Going to replace the string and varnish the  out of it and that should quiet it down a lot.
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| Posted: Sun Oct 14th, 2018 08:37 pm |
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20th Post |
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Zackri Higgins Guest
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So glad that the bearing turned out to be okay. I thought this project was dead. Here is the beast that I am restoring. It has a Fresh’nd Aire “Special” tag on it, but I thought the “Special” models had a different base? I haven’t seen another Special with the normal base aside from this. The blade is absolutely perfect on it. Not a single chip. All cage clips are also present. Attached Image (viewed 48 times): Last edited on Sun Oct 14th, 2018 08:38 pm by Zackri Higgins |
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| Posted: Sun Oct 14th, 2018 08:41 pm |
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21st Post |
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Zackri Higgins Guest
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Here is the cage from the one I picked up for $6 yesterday. It’s in pretty rough shape. Attached Image (viewed 45 times):
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| Posted: Sun Oct 14th, 2018 08:42 pm |
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22nd Post |
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Zackri Higgins Guest
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Here’s the blade from that one. Quite a few chips, but I think it could be used still. I think once I get the good one all fixed up, I’m going to reassemble the Model 2000 with the (box fan?) motor that’s in the Model 20 just for the heck of it. Attached Image (viewed 44 times): Last edited on Sun Oct 14th, 2018 08:46 pm by Zackri Higgins |
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| Posted: Sun Oct 14th, 2018 08:47 pm |
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23rd Post |
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Zackri Higgins Guest
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Here’s the tag on the 2000 (this is the $6 rust bucket). Attached Image (viewed 39 times): Last edited on Mon Oct 15th, 2018 05:07 pm by Zackri Higgins |
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| Posted: Sun Oct 14th, 2018 08:47 pm |
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24th Post |
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Zackri Higgins Guest
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Tag on the Model 20. Attached Image (viewed 38 times):
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| Posted: Mon Oct 15th, 2018 05:05 pm |
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25th Post |
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Zackri Higgins Guest
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Anyone have any idea about what year these two fans are from? I’m also curious about what makes my Model 20 a “Special”. Last edited on Mon Oct 15th, 2018 05:08 pm by Zackri Higgins |
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