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GE 75425 AOU ANI 16 inch queston  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Sat Oct 13th, 2018 05:46 am
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John Nyman
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Hello, just a quick post to see if anyone knows the production year, body color, blade type, cage type/color that my fan should be. Can't post a pic right now but the brass tag on the base reads   type AOU, form ANI, cat 75425, spec 2724171, no. (F?, P?, R?)can't be sure followed by 11191. 16 inch blade... I'll put up a pic tomorrow evening as time allows but short story....  found at local store, looks recently re-wired...nicely... but curious that head wire is only two strand (expected 3)---works fine on all 3 speeds, likely re-painted gloss black including cage and emblem, decently...had a badly damaged 4 fluke black painted blade on it when found that I swapped for a close-enuf spare that was mostly balanced....checked lube and ran it for an hour on medium with oscillation and with no issues but it got real hot towards the end. Motor sounded great on low speed, medium speed picked up some harmonics and on high the whole fan got noisy all over...pretty ugly... Maybe the spare blade is sketchy but the heat is my concern...at least 120 degrees after an hour on medium.
On a side note, I don't stop by here often...but I'm a total fan geek, just a reclusive one with an antiques store, who buys and fixes and sells them. I want to thank the whole lot of you for being so helpful towards others...even those like me, who take more than they give to this community...I'll try to make time for pics of my Vornado family of 4, GE's and other oddballs as time and my feeble memory allow. Thanks for your help, John

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 Posted: Sat Oct 13th, 2018 10:16 am
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Lane Shirey
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2 Wire headwire motors are a shaded pole design and run hot. A better way to determine if it’s healthy is to get a Kill a watt meter and check the running current. That’s the best way to see if you have a problem. 

Many shaded pole motors get hot enough that it’s hard to hold your hand on the motor for very long. 


Post the running amps on high and we can let you know our opinion. It should be around an amp or less. If it’s like 2 amps, you have a problem.  It’s possible that the replacement blade you installed is putting more load on the fan than the original due to weight or blade pitch. These motors are designed to pretty closely match the blade load. 

Last edited on Sat Oct 13th, 2018 10:17 am by Lane Shirey

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 Posted: Sat Oct 13th, 2018 03:34 pm
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Steve Rockwell
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It's a trivial matter, but your alpha-numeric serial number most likely starts with "P", definitely not "F" and probably not "R"...

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 Posted: Sat Oct 13th, 2018 04:22 pm
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Steve Stephens
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Form AN is the way you date your fan and that is from 1932-33.   It has a new ring type guard which when you look from the side, is curved at the top I am pretty sure.

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 Posted: Sun Oct 14th, 2018 01:36 am
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John Nyman
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Lane, hooked it to the meter and got 2.04 initially, then it slowly settled down to 1.78 amps and is still falling very very slowly. If it's not the blade pitch where would you look next? Steve, and Steve,...your info is much appreciated.

Last edited on Sun Oct 14th, 2018 02:08 am by John Nyman

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 Posted: Sun Oct 14th, 2018 01:44 am
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John Nyman
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 Posted: Sun Oct 14th, 2018 01:45 am
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John Nyman
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Just a shot of my Vornados...for the heck of it

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 Posted: Sun Oct 14th, 2018 01:47 am
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John Nyman
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here's a pic of the GE in question




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 Posted: Sun Oct 14th, 2018 02:50 am
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Steve Stephens
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Unless I am mistaken the blade is not correct; it looks too wide.

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 Posted: Sun Oct 14th, 2018 03:05 am
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John Nyman
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The blade it came with was fatally deformed, this one was close but if it's causing the motor to work overly hard then...dang. Is there another likely answer, perhaps I can try to flatten the pitch and re-check the amp draw and shoot for 1 amp? Any ideas welcome...and if there is a better place to look for a correct blade then ebay I'm all ears. Thanks all!

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 Posted: Sun Oct 14th, 2018 03:09 am
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Steve Stephens
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Try our buy-sell-trade with a want ad for a 16" GE AOU blade in aluminum unless you want a brass one used through 1930; aluminum after that.

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 Posted: Sun Oct 14th, 2018 03:30 am
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John Nyman
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Thanks Steve, I'm no expert so let me ask...would a wider blade with a perhaps a steeper pitch account for a doubling of the amp draw or are there internal issues that I should look at before sinking money in a correct blade? Just asking for a second opinion...

Last edited on Sun Oct 14th, 2018 03:31 am by John Nyman

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 Posted: Sun Oct 14th, 2018 04:20 am
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John Nyman
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It's starting to look like blades for this fan are a bit rare...I'll put out a WTB for one here and keep checking ebay, I'll see if I can shallow the pitch on the blade I've got but I'm wondering if it's possible to fix the bent blade that it came with. I don't see how due to the nature of the damage...let me see if I can explain it. Looking at the hub of the blade there are 4 brackets that get blades riveted to them. One of these "brackets" is bent at the central hub which has the effect of pushing 2 of the blades close together and causing an insane amount of vibration. The metal that was bent was not bent in or out but rather it was bent on the axis of rotation...or to the left. I can't imagine what caused this and I can't bend it back by hand...and I'm a pretty big guy! Is there a process out there for bending that part back to true?

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 Posted: Sun Oct 14th, 2018 02:14 pm
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Steve Stephens
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John Nyman wrote: Thanks Steve, I'm no expert so let me ask...would a wider blade with a perhaps a steeper pitch account for a doubling of the amp draw or are there internal issues that I should look at before sinking money in a correct blade? Just asking for a second opinion...
That sure could make the motor draw more amps.   Your original blade sounds like it is "out of clock" and that can sometimes be fixed, maybe mostly fixed by some who have the knowledge on how to do it.  I've done a fix on a 16" brass blade Westy blade to get it back in "clock" but it still needs a bit more work fore and aft.

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 Posted: Mon Oct 15th, 2018 02:40 am
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John Nyman
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Here's the pic, top fluke took the hit...will try it in the vise tomorrow and see how it goes...Thanks Steve!


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 Posted: Mon Oct 15th, 2018 03:35 am
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Steve Stephens
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John Nyman wrote: Here's the pic, top fluke took the hit...will try it in the vise tomorrow and see how it goes...Thanks Steve!


Drop a bolt the same diameter as the hub hole through the hole and clamp the end of the bolt to a bench vise.  Then drop to similar bolts right next to the hub at 10 and 4 o'clock so they go between the jaws of your vise to keep the blade from turning.   Being aluminum with aluminum rivets just forcing the top blade to the left as it looks like it has to go might pull the rivets out or make them loose.   Maybe clamp a C-clamp on the hub finger but so it won't deform the hub finger then pull or push on the big C-clamp as well as the edge of the blade.  Think it out and go slowly until you see if your (my) method will work.

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 Posted: Mon Oct 15th, 2018 04:42 am
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John Nyman
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Thanks Steve, the C-clamp may be a good idea...my friend next door has the vise, sheet metal to cover the edge, the clamp and a torch if necessary. We will brainstorm it before we force anything and will post the results soon....and here's my Westy, with the red button, and my other favorite GE behind...Thanks!


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 Posted: Mon Oct 15th, 2018 04:46 am
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John Nyman
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Oh, and here's that GreyBar re-badge I mentioned


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