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Emerson 79646 rewire Failure  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Tue Jan 8th, 2019 07:34 pm
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Rod Chesnut
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Joined: Mon Nov 19th, 2018
Location: Flower Mound, Texas USA
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Hey y-all. Happy New Year! 

I am back at re-assembling my Emerson 79646-AP-G, N.P. 2205.  The fan worked marvelously, until I decided to tackle a refurb. Let me say Thank you to John McComas for his input and guidance. It's my first Antique fan and Rome wasn't built in a day.

My first attempt to re-assemble failed.  I ditched the original cap for a new CF 155U252TS 1.5 µF 250V.AC 50/60Hz capacitor. Still no joy.  I re-checked my wiring per John's diagram and his simplest instructions for newbies, like me. Still no joy.  Here are John's instructions, which I thought I followed, to the letter.
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" Below is a schematic.  It is about as simple as I could make it. 
Think of your fan as having two circuits and trace your wiring for each circuit. The first circuit has: 
A.  The hot lead (short plug terminal) going to the High tap (H) on the coil on the switch and the main winding of the 3 wire motor (shown as B)  then through the main winding  and leaving (A) going back to the neutral side of the plug. That's the main circuit.
B. Then connect
the capacitor to B and C the auxiliary winding of the motor.  That's the second circuit.
You're done."
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Enclosed is a picture of my strator with new 3 wire Red cloth covered wire, ( from the Vintage Wire and Supply).
I identified each strator wire by the original wire color.  ( Red-ish - Brown, Yellow-ish & Black-ish)

To keep them separate, I marked them on each connection to my new red wires,
and the opposite end of each Red wire to connect inside the fan's base.

First Red Wire A = White casing on wire 
2nd ( middle) Yellow wire B = Blue tape
3rd Black wire C = Orange tape




Q1; Based on John McComas'  Emer 77648 SM diagram, 

does his A - B - C = my A - B - C






Q2: Or do I have my strator positioned wrong? 

I slid this top side of the strator ( shown) into the fan case facing the back of the fan housing.
Now that it's been a month since I originally wired it, I can not be sure the orange tape and blue tape are still on the wire ends, or it is covered by the heat shrink tubing.

I own two x ohm meters, but I am a creative videographer, not an electrical engineer and I really get lost using the meter. I read several descriptions on the forum of how to set the ohm meter to read the Strator wires and got very confused.


Q3: Should I pull the new Red Wire connections to re-check my id of those strator wires & their ability to carry juice? I didn't scrub the old wire ends before I soldered the connections.



Q4. Could someone explain step by step, how to use my Ohm meter to test the 3 wires directly exiting the strator ?


Thanks in advance.  I would not be this far,,, with a non-working Antique Fan I love,  without y-all. :violin:


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 Posted: Tue Jan 8th, 2019 08:54 pm
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Lawrence Smith
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First off John is quite good at the wiring of these.Set you meter to ohms, you will get 3 readings off the stator leads.
The highest reading pair is the start & run winding , the lead not used is the common(mark the common)
now pair the common with each lead-- the highest reading of this group pairing is the start or auxillary  winding, mark that lead-- the other lead is the run winding-- ( on emerson fans the common pair readings should add up to the total reading of the Start/run pair)
Now take your run winding from the stator & connect it directly to the high speed position on the speed coil. 

The start lead now connects to the capacitor on one side ,the other side of the cap connects to the same point on the speed coil as the run lead.
The common connects through the speed coil plate  to the power cord usually through the fiber board, the other side of the power cord will connect to the brass knife blade pivot  junction --   
 1 thing is they recommend getting a 440 volt cap @ 1.5 rate very cheap on ebay versus the 250 volt unit. 
hope that helps 

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 Posted: Wed Jan 9th, 2019 05:08 am
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Rod Chesnut
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Thank you, Lawrence. Yes I agree, John does know his wiring. He did not explain the strator wiring.
I will attempt your new instructions manana. 
Thanks again,
Rodmon

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 Posted: Wed Jan 9th, 2019 10:40 am
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Lane Shirey
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Location: Downingtown, Pennsylvania USA
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Pssst,  it’s stator, not strator.  It’ll even save you typing one letter. Sorry, I’m a little OCD.  Best of success with the wiring. 

Also a comment. It appears that you’ve used vinyl tape on your connections. That’s not the best choice as it can melt, especially on a shaded pole motor that can get hot. You might get away with it since this motor is not shaded pole, but shrink tubing or friction tape is best practice . 


After soldering your connections, double check your ohm readings. Many things can happen while attaching the new headwire. Bad solder connections, broken headwires, etc. I recently replaced a headwire on a Westinghouse and everything checked out fine before, but a dead wire afterwards. I suspect one wire was about to break inside the coil and with my wiggling around, it finally let loose. Things happen. 


Lawrence is on the money.  Also you may want to buy a $20 kill a watt meter.  When you do get it running, you can use it to verify it’s connected properly. You can measure running amps and compare it to the motor tag data. It’ll run a tad higher (like a few tenths of an amp) than the tag due to our higher voltage today.  These were made to run at 115v most households now have 120v+ (mine is 122-124v on a regular basis) 

Last edited on Wed Jan 9th, 2019 10:52 am by Lane Shirey

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 Posted: Mon Jan 14th, 2019 02:15 am
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Rod Chesnut
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Joined: Mon Nov 19th, 2018
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Thank you Lane. Dunno why I kept putting in an "R" in stator. I did buy proper electricians black tape, which is wrapped around my shrink tubing over the connections. But I also did use blue and Orange vinyl tape for identifying my coil wires. Yes I suspect my solders were weak, but first I need to figure out which wire is which coming off the coil. Gonna follow Lawrence's instructions soon come.
Thanks again.
Rodmon

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