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Emerson 73648 AK Help  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Mon Jun 3rd, 2019 02:02 am
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Aaron Hardy
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I have an Emerson 73648 AK I just finished working on for a friend and I have a few questions/concerns:
  1. How much oil does the fan take, or how do you know it has enough when 'filling' anew?
  2. The motor tag states it is rated at .83A, but I'm drawing just over 1.5 on the 'Hi' setting according to my Kill-A-Watt. it goes down to around 1.1A on Lo. I've triple-checked my wiring and all appears good. Should I be worried?
  3. I've been running the fan for the past few hours. I put approximately 60 drops of oil in based on some research here on the site (but still wondering if too much/not enough - question #1), The fan is running around 150F at the blade shaft. The motor housing is a respectable 120F. Spin down on shut-off is 36 seconds. I feel like these numbers are okay, but just wanted to get some second opinions.
Overall, the fan is a great fan (color choice aside). I'd really like to get my hands on one of these for myself. Since I'm doing this for someone else, I'm a bit more sensitive to making sure everything is as good as it can be. I won't be around to detect if something is going wrong. And it's going in her barbershop, so it is going to see some serious use. Thanks in advance.
 

Last edited on Mon Jun 3rd, 2019 02:04 am by Aaron Hardy

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 Posted: Mon Jun 3rd, 2019 11:14 am
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Stan Adams
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That is too much amperage & the temp is hotter than usual. Did you replace the capacitor, that is the first place I would start.

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 Posted: Mon Jun 3rd, 2019 03:11 pm
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Aaron Hardy
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I did replace the capacitor with a 1.5uF. 

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 Posted: Mon Jun 3rd, 2019 04:47 pm
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Stan Adams
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The spin down time sounds good, but I am concerned with the high temp at the blade shaft. No way it should be that hot which sounds like some serious friction is happening there. I would check to make sure you have enough lateral play in the rotor, it may be swelling & causing too much friction if there is not enough end play. You may also try taking the oscillator shaft out & running it to see if that makes any difference.

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 Posted: Mon Jun 3rd, 2019 05:15 pm
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Aaron Hardy
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I’m told my capacitor size is too small. Did some research and that would certainly lead to an over-current situation as well at the temps I’m seeing.  Not sure how I managed to managed to screw that one up.

I also happened upon an older post about oil and answered my own question there. 


New question regarding the rotor retaining assembly that screws onto the end of the oscillator shaft bearing (not sure what exactly it’s called): in other pictures I’ve seen (and when I disassembled this fan), the floor extension of the retaining assembly was at 6 o’clock.

When I reassembled the fan, the assembly seated with the extension in the 9 o’clock position. I had to replace the white plastic washers you see in the picture with fiber washers, so I’m guessing the difference in thickness of the washers is causing the assembly to line up differently. Does the extension for the oscillator shaft have to be at 6 o’clock? When I tried shimming it with an extra washer, the assembly ended up binding the rotor keeping it from spinning freely. One less washer causes the extension to rotate even further clockwise. Thoughts?

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 Posted: Mon Jun 3rd, 2019 05:31 pm
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John Weaver
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That nut is a wiper to catch oil from the inside of the hub as it spins and direct it to the oscillator shaft. Position won't matter. As long as the rotor is positioned properly in the stator field and has a little room to rotate without tension from the washers, you should be good. 

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 Posted: Mon Jun 3rd, 2019 05:43 pm
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Aaron Hardy
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John Weaver wrote: That nut is a wiper to catch oil from the inside of the hub as it spins and direct it to the oscillator shaft. Position won't matter. As long as the rotor is positioned properly in the stator field and has a little room to rotate without tension from the washers, you should be good. 
Awesome - thanks John! 

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 Posted: Mon Jun 3rd, 2019 05:47 pm
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Stan Adams
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I can't remember the cap size, but with the higher voltage on the grid, it should be a little bit less than original. One easy test is to check the power factor reading with your kill-a-watt meter. That 150 degrees on the shaft still sounds like a friction issue.

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 Posted: Mon Jun 3rd, 2019 06:06 pm
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Jeff Jones
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What are those white washers made from? They may be causing additional friction? They don't look like fiber.

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 Posted: Mon Jun 3rd, 2019 07:22 pm
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Aaron Hardy
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Jeff Jones wrote: What are those white washers made from? They may be causing additional friction? They don't look like fiber.
The white washers in the picture were on the fan when I disassembled it. They appear to have been hand-cut from sheet plastic... or the lid to an old sour cream container. 


The fan was sold as “non-running,” which there was some interesting jury-rigging, such as the plastic washers, that explained why. I replaced them with fiber washers. There is just enough room for the rotor to spin now and it does so easily. I can’t see friction being an issue. 

Stan, from what I’m gathering, I mistakenly decreased capacitance by 1.2uF (from 2.7uF to 1.5uF). I’m thinking the resultant excessive current draw is the source of the high temps in the housing and blade hub. I just picked up a proper-sized cap and will replace it tonight. I’ll take current and temp measurements after and see where I’m at. 


Last edited on Mon Jun 3rd, 2019 07:27 pm by Aaron Hardy

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 Posted: Mon Jun 3rd, 2019 07:45 pm
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Stan Adams
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Ok, please let us know how it does, that is a pretty hefty difference in micro-farads.
On that rotor, make sure it does have some back & forth play. That rotor will swell up & cause too much friction otherwise.

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 Posted: Mon Jun 3rd, 2019 07:49 pm
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Aaron Hardy
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Stan Adams wrote: Ok, please let us know how it does, that is a pretty hefty difference in micro-farads.
On that rotor, make sure it does have some back & forth play. That rotor will swell up & cause too much friction otherwise.
I'll check it again tonight. I'm guessing it has around 1/16" play. 

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 Posted: Tue Jun 4th, 2019 02:55 am
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Aaron Hardy
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Spent the day wondering how I screwed up that capacitor rating so bad until I got home and looked at the old one:


I swapped out the 1.5 with a 3uF and the current is still high. It's measuring 1.23A on Lo and goes up to 1.31 on Hi. Checked the rotor and it has plenty of play and nothing is binding. I'm at a loss. Anyone have measurements for the speed coil windings? Could they be the issue?

Last edited on Tue Jun 4th, 2019 02:57 am by Aaron Hardy

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 Posted: Tue Jun 4th, 2019 11:09 am
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Stan Adams
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Aaron, I still think you may have a friction issue going by that 150 degree temp reading. 3uf is too much capacitance, so stay for now with your other one. Take the oscillator box off, pull out the drive rod & remove the oil spring from the blade end, run it & see if it improves. Wish Tuscola was a little closer to Lake Houston. :D

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 Posted: Tue Jun 4th, 2019 01:55 pm
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Aaron Hardy
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I wish Tuscola was closer to Lake Houston, Stan. It’s hard troubleshooting by post! 
So, are you saying I should stick with the 1.5uF capacitor? The fan did start up better with the 3uF. I wouldn’t have used a 3, but 3uF and 2uF were all that were available at the local motor shop when I went in there thinking I needed to replace a 2.7uF. Looking now at the original cap rating, I’m confused. It’s a 16” fan, but the capacitor rating is less than what I’m told should be in that size fan.

I’ll eliminate the oscillator tonight and see if anything improves.

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 Posted: Tue Jun 4th, 2019 06:36 pm
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Tom Newcity
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My next step would be to double check the hook up between stator and speed control.  I have no notes on the 73's, but I believe its hook up would be the same as the 77's and McComas has wiring diagrams on his INFO link.  Certainly worth a try. 

I have replaced a lot of the 1.75 mfd caps with the 1.5 mfd caps and they have worked just fine. 

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 Posted: Tue Jun 4th, 2019 07:39 pm
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Aaron Hardy
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Tom Newcity wrote: My next step would be to double check the hook up between stator and speed control.  I have no notes on the 73's, but I believe its hook up would be the same as the 77's and McComas has wiring diagrams on his INFO link.  Certainly worth a try. 

I have replaced a lot of the 1.75 mfd caps with the 1.5 mfd caps and they have worked just fine. 

The wiring has actually crossed my mind. I went by your 77646-AS notes. I felt the wiring was likely the same as the switch/coil layout is the same. My resistance readings were different than what you provided in the 77646-AS diagram (around a 30 ohm difference on all three), but I felt that was fine since it was a different series, larger fan, equal difference across all three leads, etc. I was confident I wired it correctly, but it’s definitely worth double checking.

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 Posted: Mon Jun 10th, 2019 04:54 pm
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Aaron Hardy
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Finally got around to doing some more troubleshooting on this fan yesterday. The 1.5uF capacitor is back in and I double-checked all my wiring. Everything seems to be in order, at least using the 77646-AS wiring diagram as a guide. I even went back and re-did my connections to the stator leads carefully inspecting those wires. The windings are still ohm’ing out at the same values (170, 150, 20). I removed the oscillator drive rod, but there was no drop in the current drop: still at 1.21A on low. I did not want to run it long enough to take a temperature reading, because it’s a moot issue with the excessive current draw. I’m really at a loss. Unless I have something wired incorrectly, I’m beginning to worry the stator or speed coil windings could be bad. Any thoughts or help is much appreciated. 

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 Posted: Mon Jun 10th, 2019 06:18 pm
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Stan Adams
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Aaron,
I was wondering if you had any success. On that fan with the capacitor, the speed coil is totally out of the circuit on high, so that leaves a bad winding or incorrect wiring. :?

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 Posted: Mon Jun 10th, 2019 08:40 pm
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Andrew Block
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I always thought these had a different wiring schematic than the later ones. I could be wrong tho.

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 Posted: Mon Jun 10th, 2019 09:05 pm
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Aaron Hardy
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Andrew Block wrote: I always thought these had a different wiring schematic than the later ones. I could be wrong tho.Do you know where I might find a schematic? The head wire was not attached when I received the fan, so I couldn’t trace the wires. From what I gathered by what was left, the 77646-AS diagram seemed to fit the bill, but that’s not to say I didn’t miss something. 

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 Posted: Wed Jun 12th, 2019 12:15 pm
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Aaron Hardy
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Well, this is looking more and more like a rewind. I've eliminated everything but the windings and get no change in the current draw. Given the amount of oil that was in this fan when I disassembled it, I'm not surprised if there is some insulation on the windings failing. It seems like whoever owned this fan before thought it ran on oil rather than electricity!

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 Posted: Wed Jun 12th, 2019 12:28 pm
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Stan Adams
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Rick Huckabe is very reasonable on rewinding stators, you may want to check with him.

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 Posted: Wed Jun 12th, 2019 09:29 pm
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Aaron Hardy
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Thanks, Stan.

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