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A few questions about renovation  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Tue Sep 3rd, 2019 11:00 pm
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Julie Charles
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My 1924 GE (AUU AD1) is missing its front oiler and the badge in the rear (I think it's this: http://antiquefanparts.com/recast-ge-rear-bearing-cap/)
Is there some doesn't-have-to-be-pretty alternative I can use until I find a reasonably-priced original oiler?

It's a non-oscillating fan, so it has an oiler in the back too, which is there.

I got this fan years ago from a neighbor who was leaving; it worked like a charm until a few months ago, and now just hums when I try to turn it on. (I don't know how to fix that yet either, so more questions are coming!) I also have a WW2-era wall-mounted Westinghouse from the same neighbor; it gets pretty hot, so I'm going to try to clean it out and see if that takes care of it. He had it in the basement and my ex had it in his woodworking area, so I'm sure it's just completely full of stuff that shouldn't be there. It's missing its tag, but I live in a Navy town, so I'm sure it came off a ship.

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 Posted: Wed Sep 4th, 2019 05:47 am
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Julie Charles
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Rear oiler, not front.

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 Posted: Wed Sep 4th, 2019 10:15 am
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Lane Shirey
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Actually you don’t need the bearing cover to operate the fan. 

However there should be a tiny drain hole at the bottom of that opening where the cover used to be.  It’s drains any excess oil back into the oil cup to prevent leakage.  Make sure that drain is not clogged with dirt. 


As far as it not running. The motor is likely gummy from the old oil. Spin the blade by hand. If it is sticky or comes to a stop right away, it most likely just needs serviced.  If you use search  function you can locate old posts that will guide you in that process. 

Best of success with it. 


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 Posted: Wed Sep 4th, 2019 05:44 pm
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Julie Charles
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Thanks. It spins freely, so I don't think that's it  :?

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 Posted: Thu Sep 5th, 2019 10:19 am
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Lane Shirey
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The GE has a 2 wire headwire, right?  

As far as the Westinghouse, if it has a 2 wire headwire, they tend to run hot, but you should be able to put your hand on it for a while before getting uncomfortable. There should not be any burning smells however.   If it’s a 3 wire, they run much cooler. 

If you’re going to restore fans you need to buy a $20 kill a watt meter.  It’ll tell you running amps.  That’s the only real way to tell if a motor is healthy. Otherwise it’s just guesswork. . 

Last edited on Thu Sep 5th, 2019 10:24 am by Lane Shirey

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 Posted: Sat Sep 7th, 2019 07:54 pm
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Julie Charles
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I will have to figure out what a two wire headwire is first, and then I can answer :)  I am a complete noob. 

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 Posted: Sun Sep 8th, 2019 10:40 am
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Lane Shirey
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There are 2 conductors going from the motor to the base. Not 3

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 Posted: Sun Sep 8th, 2019 04:26 pm
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Julie Charles
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Two wires. It took some effort, but I finally got the cover off. The rotor comes out a bit then stops, so I'll research to see what I'm missing there :) 
I was going to repaint,  but I'm not sure now. I think I might just polish and rewire, and leave it at that. You can see my audit trail method on that halo piece by the plug: I've just been taping screws and washers in place until I can wash them, so I don't misplace them, or forget where they go.

I've seen cages all polished and pretty, but mine is magnetic, so I wonder if it's brass plated.


Attached Image (viewed 136 times):

image2.jpeg

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 Posted: Sun Sep 8th, 2019 04:27 pm
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Julie Charles
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You can see my dog in the background, looking at the front door, patiently waiting for his walk :) Sorry the picture i upside down.

Attached Image (viewed 134 times):

IMG_0065.jpg

Last edited on Sun Sep 8th, 2019 04:28 pm by Julie Charles

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 Posted: Sun Sep 8th, 2019 08:00 pm
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Lane Shirey
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My suggestion to keep the parts straight is to buy a compartmented clear parts tray with a lid that snaps closed.  Like you’d store fishing flies in, or nuts and bolts.  

Make sure it snaps shut.  For its first use, take a sharpie marker and as you take the fan apart, drop the parts into compartments and then on the lid, write what they are, like : oscillator lid screws, front motor housing screws, oscillator shoulder screw, etc.  


You’ll find that you can use those markings for future fans as many have similar parts.  Good practice is to remove parts, put them in the container then IMMEDIATELY snap closed the lid.  Don’t leave it hanging open thinking you’ll just have to open it again.  You will...I mean you DEFINITELY WILL knock it off the bench at some point and you’ll be crawling on your hands and knees looking for parts. And it never fails that the only part you can’t get at the hardware store is the one you’ll never find.  

You have a 2 wire headwire so the motor should run by simply connecting the 2 headwires to 120v. Those headwires seem to have been replaced by someone, so maybe there’s a bad solder connection.   

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 Posted: Sun Sep 8th, 2019 08:02 pm
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Lane Shirey
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Rotor should slide out. Sometimes the old oil creates a ridge.  Use lacquer thinner on a rag to clean the shaft. Then add a couple drops of oil into the bearing. 

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 Posted: Sun Sep 8th, 2019 08:39 pm
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Sean Campbell
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I’ve also worked on a few GEs where the rotor wouldn’t come out due to a slight overhang by the stator coils. In that case, I’ve just tended to gently pull while turning it, occasionally pushing it back in. Eventually, the old insulation will typically allow the rotor to come out.

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 Posted: Sun Sep 8th, 2019 10:03 pm
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Lane Shirey
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You’re right Sean. That could also be it.  I’ve had success heating the coils with a heat gun then GENTLY pushing on them to spread them.  Just be careful not to burrow through the tape covering and mess up the coils by forcing that stator out if that’s your problem.  

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 Posted: Thu Sep 12th, 2019 04:12 am
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Julie Charles
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Success: I used penetrating oil last night, and tonight was able to slip it out! Cleaning and rewiring, here I come!

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