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GE pancake cage question  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Sun Jul 26th, 2020 05:05 pm
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Anthony Lindsey
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The cross support wires are not tight on the rear cage wire.  They all slide back and forth.   Are they supposed to be stationary?  If so whatis  a good way to  make them "tight"?  



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 Posted: Sun Jul 26th, 2020 06:36 pm
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William Dunlap
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When these cages were new, they were tight. They loosen up over time. Brass is pretty soft after all.
When they were originally crimped, it required a fairly large amount of pressure to do it. The is likely some evidence in the the way of a depression where the spoke should sit.
I use a specially made tool to re-tighten these. Some just bang it had with a hammer, but that won't get you anywhere.
Depending on the year of the cage, I grip the wrap tightly, then with a twist toward the center, I pull the wrap tight around the back ring. You might have to repeat this a couple of times before it's tight enough.
I do the same to loose front ring wraps, if needed.

To fix the rear ring, you will need some tubing with 3/16" ID. The coupler was usually midway between two spokes.
Cheers,
Bill

Who is hunkered down with pooch to weather out this hurricane. We usually loose power and internet. Will post while possible. 
B.

Last edited on Mon Jul 27th, 2020 04:17 am by William Dunlap

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 Posted: Sun Jul 26th, 2020 07:13 pm
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Anthony Lindsey
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Thanks Bill.

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 Posted: Sun Jul 26th, 2020 09:49 pm
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William Wu
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Ever used a hog ring crimp?




Anthony Lindsey wrote: Thanks Bill.

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 Posted: Sun Jul 26th, 2020 09:51 pm
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William Wu
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:violin: :violin: :violin: please allow me introduce you - hog ring crimp.




William Dunlap wrote: When these cages were new, they were tight. They loosen up over time. Brass is pretty soft after all.
When they were originally crimped, it required a fairly large amount of pressure to do it. The is likely some evidence in the the way of a depression where the spoke should sit.
I use a specially made tool to re-tighten these. Some just bang it had with a hammer, but that won't get you anywhere.
Depending on the year of the cage,
ride where the
I grip the wrap tightly, then with a twist toward the center, I pull the wrap tight around the back ring. You might have to repeat this a couple of times before it's tight enough.
I do the same to loose front ring wraps, if needed.

To fix the rear ring, you will need some tubing with 3/16" ID. The coupler was usually midway between two spokes.
Cheers,
Bill

Who is hunkered down with pooch to weather out this hurricane. We usually loose power and internet. Will post while possible. 
B.

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 Posted: Sun Jul 26th, 2020 10:14 pm
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Anthony Lindsey
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no but it looks like it would do the job.   I will check them out.

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 Posted: Mon Jul 27th, 2020 04:24 am
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William Dunlap
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I made my own from a set of vise grips. Hog ring pliers would come in handy, too.
I ground the jaws smooth with a curve in them. The advantage of vise grips is that you can apply a lot more pressure to the wrap than you can with just your hand. Also, the jaws are now very narrow and can get into tight places very easily.
You often find wraps that have been squashed nearly flat by owners or repairmen trying to tighten up loose cages. I round them out with my tool if required.

The hurricane passed with just some rain, fortunately. We dodged yet another bullet.

Cheers,
Bill

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 Posted: Tue Sep 15th, 2020 12:53 pm
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Anthony Lindsey
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I need one 3/16" tubing for repair on 16" pancake cage.    Do any local stores sell these?   ie home depot, Ace etc.  or do I have to buy a box of them on the internet?
what is the tool that can properly crimp it?      Or.....would a metal fabricator have this tool?   I would like it done properly.  

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 Posted: Tue Sep 15th, 2020 01:34 pm
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Noah Britt
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My local Ace has some brass tubing. They might not have the right size, but it's worth checking.

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 Posted: Tue Sep 22nd, 2020 11:13 pm
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Anthony Lindsey
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I went by ACE and they did have tubing.    the 9/32 tubing fit like a glove.    Should the tubing be a little loose to start or do I want it snug at the start?    
What tool was used to originally crimp the tubing?

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 Posted: Thu Sep 24th, 2020 08:37 pm
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Mark Olson
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Anthony Lindsey wrote: I went by ACE and they did have tubing.    the 9/32 tubing fit like a glove.    Should the tubing be a little loose to start or do I want it snug at the start?    
What tool was used to originally crimp the tubing?
Tight is better than loose. Do you have a pair of these? They work really well, but I am fairly sure the original was done with a square die, smacked with a hammer.


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 Posted: Fri Sep 25th, 2020 01:39 am
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Anthony Lindsey
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Hi Mark,  what are those called?

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 Posted: Fri Sep 25th, 2020 03:10 am
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William Dunlap
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That crimping tool won't make anything that looks like the original crimp. The original is full circle, like more of an ellipse around the entire coupler.
I have a variety of them. You need one for each size of crimp you will be doing. You will likely have to make one from another tool, like side cutters or vise grips.
Cheers,
Bill

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 Posted: Fri Sep 25th, 2020 09:35 am
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Mark Olson
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Anthony Lindsey wrote: Hi Mark,  what are those called?Hi Anthony, those are 'Sta-Kon' pliers. As Mr. Dunlap stated, it will not make an original style crimp. I suggested it because many people have a pair in their tool box and maybe save some time and trouble. There is a section between the two crimp sizes that is more or less flat.

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