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Anthony Lindsey
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Joined: Sun Oct 27th, 2019
Location: Florida USA
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The cross support wires are not tight on the rear cage wire.  They all slide back and forth.   Are they supposed to be stationary?  If so whatis  a good way to  make them "tight"?  



William Dunlap
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Joined: Fri Jan 31st, 2014
Location: Kula, Maui, Hawaii USA
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When these cages were new, they were tight. They loosen up over time. Brass is pretty soft after all.
When they were originally crimped, it required a fairly large amount of pressure to do it. The is likely some evidence in the the way of a depression where the spoke should sit.
I use a specially made tool to re-tighten these. Some just bang it had with a hammer, but that won't get you anywhere.
Depending on the year of the cage, I grip the wrap tightly, then with a twist toward the center, I pull the wrap tight around the back ring. You might have to repeat this a couple of times before it's tight enough.
I do the same to loose front ring wraps, if needed.

To fix the rear ring, you will need some tubing with 3/16" ID. The coupler was usually midway between two spokes.
Cheers,
Bill

Who is hunkered down with pooch to weather out this hurricane. We usually loose power and internet. Will post while possible. 
B.

Last edited on Mon Jul 27th, 2020 04:17 am by William Dunlap

Anthony Lindsey
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Location: Florida USA
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Thanks Bill.

William Wu
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Joined: Mon Jun 22nd, 2020
Location: East Cleveland, Ohio USA
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Ever used a hog ring crimp?




Anthony Lindsey wrote: Thanks Bill.

William Wu
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Joined: Mon Jun 22nd, 2020
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:violin: :violin: :violin: please allow me introduce you - hog ring crimp.




William Dunlap wrote: When these cages were new, they were tight. They loosen up over time. Brass is pretty soft after all.
When they were originally crimped, it required a fairly large amount of pressure to do it. The is likely some evidence in the the way of a depression where the spoke should sit.
I use a specially made tool to re-tighten these. Some just bang it had with a hammer, but that won't get you anywhere.
Depending on the year of the cage,
ride where the
I grip the wrap tightly, then with a twist toward the center, I pull the wrap tight around the back ring. You might have to repeat this a couple of times before it's tight enough.
I do the same to loose front ring wraps, if needed.

To fix the rear ring, you will need some tubing with 3/16" ID. The coupler was usually midway between two spokes.
Cheers,
Bill

Who is hunkered down with pooch to weather out this hurricane. We usually loose power and internet. Will post while possible. 
B.

Anthony Lindsey
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Joined: Sun Oct 27th, 2019
Location: Florida USA
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no but it looks like it would do the job.   I will check them out.

William Dunlap
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Joined: Fri Jan 31st, 2014
Location: Kula, Maui, Hawaii USA
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I made my own from a set of vise grips. Hog ring pliers would come in handy, too.
I ground the jaws smooth with a curve in them. The advantage of vise grips is that you can apply a lot more pressure to the wrap than you can with just your hand. Also, the jaws are now very narrow and can get into tight places very easily.
You often find wraps that have been squashed nearly flat by owners or repairmen trying to tighten up loose cages. I round them out with my tool if required.

The hurricane passed with just some rain, fortunately. We dodged yet another bullet.

Cheers,
Bill

Anthony Lindsey
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Joined: Sun Oct 27th, 2019
Location: Florida USA
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I need one 3/16" tubing for repair on 16" pancake cage.    Do any local stores sell these?   ie home depot, Ace etc.  or do I have to buy a box of them on the internet?
what is the tool that can properly crimp it?      Or.....would a metal fabricator have this tool?   I would like it done properly.  

Noah Britt
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Joined: Sun May 26th, 2019
Location: South Carolina USA
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My local Ace has some brass tubing. They might not have the right size, but it's worth checking.

Anthony Lindsey
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Joined: Sun Oct 27th, 2019
Location: Florida USA
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I went by ACE and they did have tubing.    the 9/32 tubing fit like a glove.    Should the tubing be a little loose to start or do I want it snug at the start?    
What tool was used to originally crimp the tubing?

Mark Olson
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Joined: Thu Nov 22nd, 2018
Location: Baton Rouge, Louisiana USA
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Anthony Lindsey wrote: I went by ACE and they did have tubing.    the 9/32 tubing fit like a glove.    Should the tubing be a little loose to start or do I want it snug at the start?    
What tool was used to originally crimp the tubing?
Tight is better than loose. Do you have a pair of these? They work really well, but I am fairly sure the original was done with a square die, smacked with a hammer.


Anthony Lindsey
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Joined: Sun Oct 27th, 2019
Location: Florida USA
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Hi Mark,  what are those called?

William Dunlap
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Joined: Fri Jan 31st, 2014
Location: Kula, Maui, Hawaii USA
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That crimping tool won't make anything that looks like the original crimp. The original is full circle, like more of an ellipse around the entire coupler.
I have a variety of them. You need one for each size of crimp you will be doing. You will likely have to make one from another tool, like side cutters or vise grips.
Cheers,
Bill

Mark Olson
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Joined: Thu Nov 22nd, 2018
Location: Baton Rouge, Louisiana USA
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Anthony Lindsey wrote: Hi Mark,  what are those called?Hi Anthony, those are 'Sta-Kon' pliers. As Mr. Dunlap stated, it will not make an original style crimp. I suggested it because many people have a pair in their tool box and maybe save some time and trouble. There is a section between the two crimp sizes that is more or less flat.


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