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| GE Twin Window/Box Fan | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Thu Feb 11th, 2021 06:51 pm |
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1st Post |
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Michael Poule Guest
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Hi All, I am new here... I have been a fan fanatic since I was 2 0r 3 yrs old. Glad to find a group of others who are too. Anyway, I picked this (early 50's?) GE twin window/box fan up at a thrift shop for $10, the other day. No Model # to be found. Grey color, 3 speed with thermostat, manually reversible fans. The blades are mounted with the rubber insert. Not easy to get off. I was finally able to by using diluted dish soap, applying it to the shaft with a dropper & letting it run down into the rubber, let it sit for a few hours and blades finally slid off. My question is how do you get these motors apart to oil the bearings? I've searched the internet & the forums here, but can't find anything. Any info would be very much appreciated. I've gotten this far....   
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| Posted: Thu Feb 11th, 2021 08:27 pm |
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2nd Post |
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Arjun Saini AFCA Member 
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hello nice fan you got there so i would use 3 in 1 oil make sure its the blue can also i don't know much on these but i would ask some of the GE guys like steve stephens
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| Posted: Fri Feb 12th, 2021 02:44 pm |
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3rd Post |
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Tom Zapf AFCA Member
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MICHAEL..WELCOME TO THE CLUB. YOUR FAN DATES TO 1953-ISH WITH THOSE KNOBS. THE FAN ITSELF RUNS FROM AROUND 1950-54 THEN IN 1955 THE DESIGN CHANGED GETTING THE BLADES OFF IS A MISERY AND I TRY NEVER TO DO IT IF I CAN. THE GE N.O.S. HUBS I HAVE IN THE BOXES INDICATED THE RUBBER SHOULD BE SOFTENED WITH RUBBING ALCOHOL, BUT I GUESS YOUR METHOD WORKED. OILING THE MOTORS ISNT EASY, BUT ON THE REAR THE SILVER GE CAP HAS TO BE CAREFULLY PRIED OFF WITH SMALL SCREWDRIVERS GOING BACK AND FORTH AROUND THE CAP EDGE. INSIDE YOU WILL FIND A C-CLIP HOLDING THE SHAFT INSIDE THE MOTOR (THIS IS A SINGLE BEARING WITH A LONG SHAFT). INSIDE THE CAVITY SHOULD BE A FELT WICK THAT WILL ALLOW OIL TO SOAK DOWN TO WICKS THAT SURROUND THE BEARING. SNAP THE CAP BACK ON AFTER OILING THE WICKS AND YOU SHOULD BE ALL SET TO GO
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| Posted: Fri Feb 12th, 2021 05:07 pm |
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4th Post |
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Michael Poule Guest
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Tom, Thank you so much for all the info! I wondered if caps came off... But didn't want to try anything until I was sure. Arjun, thanks for your reply, too. Always use blue label 3 in 1 or zoom spout oil... I also have a bottle of something called 'Liquid Bearings', I was wondering if anyone else has used this... it is 100% synthetic lubricant. Thanks!
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| Posted: Fri Feb 12th, 2021 09:14 pm |
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5th Post |
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Michael Poule Guest
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Well, I was finally able to get the silver ge caps off the back of motors. Instead of having access to the c clips & felt... I ran into what looks to be solid metal with black paint on it. I thought maybe this was another cap to be removed, but the whole thing seems to one solid piece of metal & part of rear motor casing.I was also hoping the motor would pop out of the rear casing after removing the front motor cover, but it won't budge. I am totally baffled @ this point  . Any help/advice would be much appreciated. Thanks 
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| Posted: Sat Feb 13th, 2021 01:14 am |
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6th Post |
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Mark Olson AFCA Member
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From what I can tell from the photo, that cap appears to be crimped in from around the edges. If that is the case, I can only think of two alternatives: #1-drill a small oil hole in the upper part of the cap #2-carefully un-crimp the perimeter for access and re-crimp after servicing. I have had good success using method #1 on sealed automotive a/c heater motors and sealing the hole with rtv after lubing it up/
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| Posted: Sun Feb 14th, 2021 04:04 am |
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7th Post |
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Michael Poule Guest
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Thanks Mark, appreciate your reply... Hard to tell from photo, but no sign of cap being crimped. So I guess I will have to drill an oil hole. I've never run across a motor this old that is so difficult to get to bearings, totally sealed and no oiling ports. Still can't figure out what is holding the motor in the rear part of the case, all screws (only 2) are removed. Had really hoped to take them completely apart to clean out old gunked up oil... both motors hardly rotate at all when powered up.
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| Posted: Tue Feb 16th, 2021 06:42 pm |
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8th Post |
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Tom Zapf AFCA Member
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THOSE CAPS OFTEN HAVE COME LOOSE, BUT ARE HELD ON WITH A GRAY GE ADHESIVE, I WOULD VOTE FOR THE DRILL A TINY HOLE AT THE TOP METHOD. USUSALLY IF A MOTOR HAS BEEN DISASSEMBLED BEFORE THOSE CAPS JUST POP OUT AND SOMETIMES ARE MISSING....
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| Posted: Tue Feb 16th, 2021 08:30 pm |
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9th Post |
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Michael Poule Guest
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Hey Tom, Thanks!...I wondered what the gray coating was. Apparently neither of the motors has ever been disassembled... The Silver GE caps were extremely difficult to get off and these inner caps won't budge. Looks like I will be drilling an oil port.
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| Posted: Wed Feb 17th, 2021 01:38 pm |
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10th Post |
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Tom Zapf AFCA Member
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IF THE FAN FALLS OVER BACKWARDS SOMETIMES THE SHAFT WILL HIT THOSE CAPS (THE BIGGER FANS HAVE THEM TOO) AND POP THAT CAP RIGHT OUT. OTHER TIMES THEY ARE HARD TO LOOSEN. WHATEVER THE GRAY ADHESIVE IS ITS TOUGH STUFF. THE LITTLE SILVER CAPS ARE A MISERY TO GET OFF TOO WITHOUT DAMAGE
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| Posted: Thu Feb 18th, 2021 08:18 pm |
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11th Post |
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Michael Poule Guest
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Yes, there was a little damage done while removing sliver caps, not too bad.... That gray adhesive is definitely tough stuff! After drilling the oil ports into the inner caps, I thought I could use an ice pick or similar to stick in the hole and pry those caps off, no way, still won't budge! Knowing that the motors have never been disassembled or oiled... I am sure the felt is completely dried out.... Any idea how much oil can be put in without over oiling and leaking ??
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