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 Posted: Mon May 31st, 2021 03:21 am
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Allen Griswell
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Picked up this beast of a fan from my late grandmother’s estate. (Will try to attach a photo.) The cord needs to be upgraded, but it does work to power the fan. 

The fan/speeds are a bit wonky. First, when turning the fan to “low”, either direction, the motor hums, but will only move if you give it a spin. Then it will continue on its own, but only at about 60rpm...super slow. Turning to high (from “off”) causes the fan to barely move, but a quick spin by hand makes it get up to a fairly fast speed. It does smell a little bit from the motor, like burning house dust. Next weird thing, when giving the blades a spin after turning it on, regardless of which direction the fan knob is turned, the fan will spin in that direction. So if if you set it to “intake” and start it spinning as “exhaust”, it will keep spinning as exhaust. 

Is it haunted, or do I just need a new motor? If I do, where would I get one?




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 Posted: Mon May 31st, 2021 12:57 pm
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John McComas
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It may be a bad capacitor.
Happy Fanning!

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 Posted: Mon May 31st, 2021 01:19 pm
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Allen Griswell
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John McComas wrote: It may be a bad capacitor.
Happy Fanning!
Ok, I want to make this thing my project and completely restore it as best I can. Where does one go to get parts for this bad boy? Or is that even an option anymore?
Has anyone ever rebuilt one? Does the motor need to be taken apart and cleaned?

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 Posted: Mon May 31st, 2021 07:46 pm
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Rob Duffy
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Sounds like you need either a capacitor, some oil, or both. Where are you located?

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 Posted: Mon May 31st, 2021 08:06 pm
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Allen Griswell
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Rob Duffy wrote: Sounds like you need either a capacitor, some oil, or both. Where are you located?Columbus, Georgia

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 Posted: Mon May 31st, 2021 08:10 pm
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Rob Duffy
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Allen Griswell wrote: Rob Duffy wrote: Sounds like you need either a capacitor, some oil, or both. Where are you located?Columbus, GeorgiaThat's a bit far from me but at least these are pretty easy to work on. I would start by giving the motor some oil in both front and rear bearings. Typically these do have oil ports that are labeled. You'll want to use a non-detergent SAE 20 oil. 3-IN-ONE in the blue and red striped can will work, or if you can find zoomspout, that will work too.

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 Posted: Mon May 31st, 2021 09:06 pm
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Allen Griswell
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Rob Duffy wrote: Allen Griswell wrote: Rob Duffy wrote: Sounds like you need either a capacitor, some oil, or both. Where are you located?Columbus, GeorgiaThat's a bit far from me but at least these are pretty easy to work on. I would start by giving the motor some oil in both front and rear bearings. Typically these do have oil ports that are labeled. You'll want to use a non-detergent SAE 20 oil. 3-IN-ONE in the blue and red striped can will work, or if you can find zoomspout, that will work too.
Oh gosh thank you for this info. I truly want to restore it back to how it worked and looked back when I was a child in her house. The cords need replacing, that includes the four-part cord that runs from the control box to the motor. I’m sure I can get something like that at Home Depot. 
The spiral wire cage in front has quite a bit of rust on it in some areas, though is still quite solid. Maybe some steel wool would remove it?

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 Posted: Tue Jun 1st, 2021 03:04 pm
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Tom Zapf
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IT DOES SOUND LIKE THE CAPACITOR IS GOING DOWNHILL... ITS A GOOD THING YOU CAUGHT THAT BEFORE IT COOKS THE MOTOR. THERE ARE MOST LIKELY NO OIL PORTS, SO YOU CAN GET ADVICE FROM THE GUYS ON HOW TO OIL IT. STEEL WOOL CAN TAKE A  GOOD PART OF THE RUST OFF THE GRILLE . ONCE IT IS BACK AND GOING YOU WILL BE SURPRISED HOW MUCH AIR IT MOVES

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 Posted: Tue Jun 1st, 2021 03:23 pm
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Allen Griswell
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Tom Zapf wrote: IT DOES SOUND LIKE THE CAPACITOR IS GOING DOWNHILL... ITS A GOOD THING YOU CAUGHT THAT BEFORE IT COOKS THE MOTOR. THERE ARE MOST LIKELY NO OIL PORTS, SO YOU CAN GET ADVICE FROM THE GUYS ON HOW TO OIL IT. STEEL WOOL CAN TAKE A  GOOD PART OF THE RUST OFF THE GRILLE . ONCE IT IS BACK AND GOING YOU WILL BE SURPRISED HOW MUCH AIR IT MOVESWell, I’m definitely not going to turn it back on until I can replace it. The capacitor that is. Does anyone have any idea where I could get one? I know you can buy fan capacitors from hardware stores and Home Depot, but I’m guessing the one in THIS fan is no longer available just anywhere.

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 Posted: Tue Jun 1st, 2021 10:49 pm
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John McComas
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Allen Griswell wrote: Tom Zapf wrote: IT DOES SOUND LIKE THE CAPACITOR IS GOING DOWNHILL... ITS A GOOD THING YOU CAUGHT THAT BEFORE IT COOKS THE MOTOR. THERE ARE MOST LIKELY NO OIL PORTS, SO YOU CAN GET ADVICE FROM THE GUYS ON HOW TO OIL IT. STEEL WOOL CAN TAKE A  GOOD PART OF THE RUST OFF THE GRILLE . ONCE IT IS BACK AND GOING YOU WILL BE SURPRISED HOW MUCH AIR IT MOVESWell, I’m definitely not going to turn it back on until I can replace it. The capacitor that is. Does anyone have any idea where I could get one? I know you can buy fan capacitors from hardware stores and Home Depot, but I’m guessing the one in THIS fan is no longer available just anywhere.
Hopefully you can take a picture of the capacitor and post it here, or write the numbers on it and post them here.
capacitors can look like a sardine can, a tubular can, or a cardboard wrapped container with two wires attached.
Two things are needed:  1. the capacitor value: mfd or uf.   2. voltage rating :  220 VAC (or higher)
Happy Fanning! 

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 Posted: Wed Jun 2nd, 2021 02:15 am
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Allen Griswell
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John McComas wrote: Allen Griswell wrote: Tom Zapf wrote: IT DOES SOUND LIKE THE CAPACITOR IS GOING DOWNHILL... ITS A GOOD THING YOU CAUGHT THAT BEFORE IT COOKS THE MOTOR. THERE ARE MOST LIKELY NO OIL PORTS, SO YOU CAN GET ADVICE FROM THE GUYS ON HOW TO OIL IT. STEEL WOOL CAN TAKE A  GOOD PART OF THE RUST OFF THE GRILLE . ONCE IT IS BACK AND GOING YOU WILL BE SURPRISED HOW MUCH AIR IT MOVESWell, I’m definitely not going to turn it back on until I can replace it. The capacitor that is. Does anyone have any idea where I could get one? I know you can buy fan capacitors from hardware stores and Home Depot, but I’m guessing the one in THIS fan is no longer available just anywhere.
Hopefully you can take a picture of the capacitor and post it here, or write the numbers on it and post them here.
capacitors can look like
a sardine can, a tubular can, or a cardboard wrapped container with two wires attached.
Two things are needed:  1. the capacitor value: mfd or uf.   2. voltage rating :  220 VAC (or higher)
Happy Fanning! 

Removed the shield for the capacitor and wiring for the controls. Pics attached below. The capacitor also has a #2 stamped on the side in ink. 



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 Posted: Wed Jun 2nd, 2021 03:42 am
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John McComas
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6uf 330VAC, or 440VAC:

Here are some links to purchase....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/123349310545?hash=item1cb8311c51:g:s24AAOSwWvpbjW6f

http://www.ebay.com/itm/254959483216?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D232335%26meid%3D20e7d9c4ee8b4f389304d2b3b41e2fca%26pid%3D101195%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D233020219461%26itm%3D254959483216%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv9PairwiseUnbiasedWeb&_trksid=p2047675.c101195.m1851&amdata=cksum%3A25495948321620e7d9c4ee8b4f389304d2b3b41e2fca%7Cenc%3AAQAFAAACANLWSUnvHM2kL39ZR7ASNhMAz1j%252F0iHuKiVg2Uh2O8MLwSrsFFBMCmZWeGZjpj4H%252B%252BUrVgvhdeXVIm2C1EBKikXbuKBTZ53hUnur9EM%252FFvCENDjqkQEDure0Pp%252Bg4jOfeCSI3N1xR4Uk9fS4bNVRtHWQz%252F2nkPWYejX98XCskR69w67sJ8Dm9uc9nB%252BFkfekUN%252Fke4Fd7FH6jE7gU4XJlrUxfL63uLMJd%252Fl2Ur22uPzFfDMyHggLHqgVsXZ4MTqpI57TIOZ4KicSF%252B%252BEoxXhEivbFBEXXnwRUTvmbvXDf%252BOO7vNXA0CiFuWSJL8UM2l3zYpK7VTFNcWRIe13fqL%252FlpddXJOcnbiRrABvWy8pS%252B1zBcsk%252FPU%252FdWlj%252BfUVuAm4vzaVNmrCE6Y%252BCoMWX52vEBiL1lZD9lsnvPTC6%252F5te5qqN1KOLCMwpL5kbUsqkAPoI%252F60daDjKqwnl%252BEPuLiyvvZEhlyUgewZAioq0Z6WjrUK6qH0K8WEdpblNOYPyvqpqNh%252Fqgvgys6Hc93Jl3QqWdS397uM8nPTiuf26N8dfOpKkuRF1rEQznGPWlzczS%252F2c3J3wBNXwREtgEJg4VTrACvCHuL2JLOMZRZQiNB7mFcrB2o8G1Q778hkZ2qhHRHlhjWc%252BQjgMmNQatdMeHkZ56uOynzEqvUHIOHmAf6PhPJV%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2047675

http://www.amazon.com/Twidec-Capacitor-Metallized-Polypropylene-Capacitors/dp/B07QRZYTB9/ref=psdc_306788011_t3_B00C0YRRIM

Happy Fanning!

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 Posted: Wed Jun 2nd, 2021 03:51 am
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Allen Griswell
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John McComas wrote: 6uf 330VAC, or 440VAC:

Here are some links to purchase....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/123349310545?hash=item1cb8311c51:g:s24AAOSwWvpbjW6f

http://www.ebay.com/itm/254959483216?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D232335%26meid%3D20e7d9c4ee8b4f389304d2b3b41e2fca%26pid%3D101195%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D233020219461%26itm%3D254959483216%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv9PairwiseUnbiasedWeb&_trksid=p2047675.c101195.m1851&amdata=cksum%3A25495948321620e7d9c4ee8b4f389304d2b3b41e2fca%7Cenc%3AAQAFAAACANLWSUnvHM2kL39ZR7ASNhMAz1j%252F0iHuKiVg2Uh2O8MLwSrsFFBMCmZWeGZjpj4H%252B%252BUrVgvhdeXVIm2C1EBKikXbuKBTZ53hUnur9EM%252FFvCENDjqkQEDure0Pp%252Bg4jOfeCSI3N1xR4Uk9fS4bNVRtHWQz%252F2nkPWYejX98XCskR69w67sJ8Dm9uc9nB%252BFkfekUN%252Fke4Fd7FH6jE7gU4XJlrUxfL63uLMJd%252Fl2Ur22uPzFfDMyHggLHqgVsXZ4MTqpI57TIOZ4KicSF%252B%252BEoxXhEivbFBEXXnwRUTvmbvXDf%252BOO7vNXA0CiFuWSJL8UM2l3zYpK7VTFNcWRIe13fqL%252FlpddXJOcnbiRrABvWy8pS%252B1zBcsk%252FPU%252FdWlj%252BfUVuAm4vzaVNmrCE6Y%252BCoMWX52vEBiL1lZD9lsnvPTC6%252F5te5qqN1KOLCMwpL5kbUsqkAPoI%252F60daDjKqwnl%252BEPuLiyvvZEhlyUgewZAioq0Z6WjrUK6qH0K8WEdpblNOYPyvqpqNh%252Fqgvgys6Hc93Jl3QqWdS397uM8nPTiuf26N8dfOpKkuRF1rEQznGPWlzczS%252F2c3J3wBNXwREtgEJg4VTrACvCHuL2JLOMZRZQiNB7mFcrB2o8G1Q778hkZ2qhHRHlhjWc%252BQjgMmNQatdMeHkZ56uOynzEqvUHIOHmAf6PhPJV%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2047675

http://www.amazon.com/Twidec-Capacitor-Metallized-Polypropylene-Capacitors/dp/B07QRZYTB9/ref=psdc_306788011_t3_B00C0YRRIM

Happy Fanning!
Does it matter if it’s 440v when mine is 330v? I don’t want to overload anything.
Also, the original electrical cords that run into the fan motor are dry-rotted (the plastic wiring shielding is) and I know I will have to replace it. Is that something I can physically do? Like can I get into the motor and replace those wires without destroying it?

I wish there was a schematic for the motor and controls.

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 Posted: Wed Jun 2nd, 2021 07:34 pm
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Allen Griswell
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Next chapter in the saga of my grandmother’s fan. I unbolted the motor from the front cage, carefully marked the wires since they were practically falling to pieces with each tiny movement, and then took the motor housing apart for cleaning with electrical parts cleaner. 
As soon as I separated the two halves of the housing, the wiring itself began to fall apart. (See photo). Is this fan quickly becoming a lost cause? I really want to get it going, but I don’t know what to do from this point. One tiny little tug would separate the wires from the motor, and then I think I’d be screwed.










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 Posted: Thu Jun 3rd, 2021 01:49 am
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Rob Duffy
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I'm not entirely sure how good you are when it comes to adding new motor leads but if you can identify each wire and mark where they go on the motor and the switch, I'm sure one of us could add new leads for you.

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 Posted: Thu Jun 3rd, 2021 02:24 am
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Allen Griswell
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I’m pretty good with basic wiring, and if this were an old thrift store lamp with cords that had gotten too short, I’m sure I could lengthen them using clamps and extensions. My concern with this motor is, are the wires running into the motor just as dry-rotted as the ones outside it? Will they crumble as well? There’s probably nowhere to order used motors for these fans, I’m sure. Thanks for all this info guys. I really want to get it going again.
Update: I checked the wiring running into the motor, and it’s totally shot. I used a toothpick to try to gently pull up the wires at the motor, and they crumbled into nothing. This fan was kept in an attic for the past 30 years, and there were moisture issues at play I’m sure.

Is this the end? :violin:

Last edited on Thu Jun 3rd, 2021 02:36 am by Allen Griswell

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 Posted: Thu Jun 3rd, 2021 03:05 am
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Rob Duffy
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Allen Griswell wrote: I’m pretty good with basic wiring, and if this were an old thrift store lamp with cords that had gotten too short, I’m sure I could lengthen them using clamps and extensions. My concern with this motor is, are the wires running into the motor just as dry-rotted as the ones outside it? Will they crumble as well? There’s probably nowhere to order used motors for these fans, I’m sure. Thanks for all this info guys. I really want to get it going again.
Update: I checked the wiring running into the motor, and it’s totally shot. I used a toothpick to try to gently pull up the wires at the motor, and they crumbled into nothing. This fan was kept in an attic for the past 30 years, and there were moisture issues at play I’m sure.

Is this the end? :violin:
If you want to ship the motor out to see if someone can repair it, let me know. I won't be able to determine which wire is which but at least if you have new motor leads, you'll have somewhere to start.

Attached Image (viewed 68 times):

newleads.png

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 Posted: Thu Jun 3rd, 2021 03:15 am
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Allen Griswell
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Rob Duffy wrote: Allen Griswell wrote: I’m pretty good with basic wiring, and if this were an old thrift store lamp with cords that had gotten too short, I’m sure I could lengthen them using clamps and extensions. My concern with this motor is, are the wires running into the motor just as dry-rotted as the ones outside it? Will they crumble as well? There’s probably nowhere to order used motors for these fans, I’m sure. Thanks for all this info guys. I really want to get it going again.
Update: I checked the wiring running into the motor, and it’s totally shot. I used a toothpick to try to gently pull up the wires at the motor, and they crumbled into nothing. This fan was kept in an attic for the past 30 years, and there were moisture issues at play I’m sure.

Is this the end? :violin:
If you want to ship the motor out to see if someone can repair it, let me know. I won't be able to determine which wire is which but at least if you have new motor leads, you'll have somewhere to start.
I don’t know if you meant to attach the photo, but if so, was that to show what it should look like in good condition? The motor I have is going to need to be completely rewired because the wires coming out of the motor disintegrated with only gentle care applied. I don’t know how much that would cost, or if it’s even worth it, if repairable.
Maybe one will come up for sale on the classifieds one day on this site. 

But hey! All I need is completely new wiring, a new capacitor, and a rebuilt motor. 😂

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 Posted: Thu Jun 3rd, 2021 03:22 am
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Rob Duffy
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Allen Griswell wrote: Rob Duffy wrote: Allen Griswell wrote: I’m pretty good with basic wiring, and if this were an old thrift store lamp with cords that had gotten too short, I’m sure I could lengthen them using clamps and extensions. My concern with this motor is, are the wires running into the motor just as dry-rotted as the ones outside it? Will they crumble as well? There’s probably nowhere to order used motors for these fans, I’m sure. Thanks for all this info guys. I really want to get it going again.
Update: I checked the wiring running into the motor, and it’s totally shot. I used a toothpick to try to gently pull up the wires at the motor, and they crumbled into nothing. This fan was kept in an attic for the past 30 years, and there were moisture issues at play I’m sure.

Is this the end? :violin:
If you want to ship the motor out to see if someone can repair it, let me know. I won't be able to determine which wire is which but at least if you have new motor leads, you'll have somewhere to start.
I don’t know if you meant to attach the photo, but if so, was that to show what it should look like in good condition? The motor I have is going to need to be completely rewired because the wires coming out of the motor disintegrated with only gentle care applied. I don’t know how much that would cost, or if it’s even worth it, if repairable.
Maybe one will come up for sale on the classifieds one day on this site. 

But hey! All I need is completely new wiring, a new capacitor, and a rebuilt motor. 😂
The picture I attached was of a motor I had completely repaired myself. All new motor leads as they all needed to be replaced. It's not impossible and not all that hard to do if experienced. Chances are your motor is perfectly salvageable, just got to find the right person to do so and then a proper wiring diagram to get yours wired up correctly after repaired.

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