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 Posted: Fri Sep 24th, 2021 08:47 pm
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Bill Steinkampf
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Hunter 22306 was running, then stopped sometime after I left it unattended.  Spousal unit said it would not run; she was correct; light was still on.  Took it down, completely disassembled and cleaned everything using brake cleaner [oil was filthy and down a bit, no rust anyplace], mapped the off/on/on switch [no pull-red/blue continuity; one pull-black/red; two pulls-black/blue. three pulls-red/blue], refilled the reservoir with ISO-32 turbine oil, re-mounted.  Circuit is hot; light comes on, 124V black/ground, neither rotation nor sound.  The stator wiring looks fine, no dings, etc. anyplace I can see.  Replacing the switch, even though it appears good.  If that doesn't work, I'll be back.

  Anyone know what voltage should be through the pull sequence when wired up?

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 Posted: Fri Sep 24th, 2021 11:02 pm
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Mark Olson
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In the United States, line voltage is 120-125 give or take a few volts

Last edited on Fri Sep 24th, 2021 11:03 pm by Mark Olson

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 Posted: Sat Sep 25th, 2021 01:04 am
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Stan Adams
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It sounds as though you have an open in the stator. Try ohming the stator to make sure you have continuity. That would be rare but does happen. Hopefully you did not use brake cleaner on the windings as that will remove the varnish.

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 Posted: Sat Sep 25th, 2021 01:27 pm
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Bill Steinkampf
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Brake cleaner on the rotor and bearings only.  I cannot imagine how a break in the stator could have shown up, but I'll put the Fluke on it. Heading for the big box soon for a switch.

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 Posted: Sat Sep 25th, 2021 04:23 pm
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Bill Steinkampf
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Sorry, I should have been more specific.  What I was wondering about was voltages at the various switch positions.  I'd assume 120V at each speed.  If so, then my money is on a new switch.

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 Posted: Sat Sep 25th, 2021 05:00 pm
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Mark Olson
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Yes, 120v on each switch position. If your switch does not do that, then it has failed.

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 Posted: Sat Sep 25th, 2021 05:28 pm
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Bill Steinkampf
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Many thanks!

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 Posted: Sun Sep 26th, 2021 07:46 pm
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Bill Steinkampf
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So, found a 3-position switch, but it does not map like the one it is replacing.  Instead, it maps as follows:  no pull/red-blue continuity; 1st pull/black-red [red is #1]; 2nd pull/black-blue [blue is #2]; 3rd pull/black-red AND black-blue AND red-blue.  Installed it anyway; no rotation.

1-Verified that there is continuity between the red and blue coming out of the stator.

2-Revisited the previously working switch; continuities essentially as noted in the original post...red-blue, black-blue [blue is #1], black red [red is #2], red-blue, etc.

Multi-perplexed.


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 Posted: Sun Sep 26th, 2021 07:52 pm
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Mark Olson
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Your replacement switch seems to be for a three-way lamp. Do not use that. If your old switch is working, use it. Are you versed in the use of a digital multi-meter? Check for an open motor winding.

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 Posted: Sun Sep 26th, 2021 09:21 pm
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Bill Steinkampf
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Many thanks. Fluke 376 indicates the prior switch is good. How to check for open motor winding?

Last edited on Sun Sep 26th, 2021 09:22 pm by Bill Steinkampf

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 Posted: Mon Sep 27th, 2021 10:46 pm
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Mark Olson
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Well, first do a web search for "hunter original" + "wiring diagram" or some such. These are simple two speed fans with no capacitor. A shaded pole motor. Some are reversible. If yours is, it will have six wires from the motor instead of four, or something like what I am saying. Learn to use your Fluke 87vI and test the motor according to the wiring diagram that you found.......

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 Posted: Tue Sep 28th, 2021 08:10 pm
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Bill Steinkampf
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Fini.

Line to neutral; 124.8V.  Jumped red to neutral; no rotation; blue to neutral; no rotation.  Looking for a motor...sigh.

Last edited on Tue Sep 28th, 2021 08:12 pm by Bill Steinkampf

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